TheNeedForZ Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Hi, all I have been planning/saving for about a year to prep a 260Z body shell this summer. This summer's plan includes media blasting plus 2 coats of...some kind of super tough primer like POR-15. Although I am not doing these work myself but I intend to coat every inch of space that I can reach when I touch up with the same tough primer. I will be painting suspension parts myself also. Because I always wanted total protection, my plan has always involved shooting the whole car with POR-15, but when I did a search on this forum, I found a few users having trouble with POR-15 : Issues with UV plus other paints(including Ti-coat) having trouble sticking to POR-15. At the same time, I saw someone provided a link to RustBullet.com Which is a competitor of POR-15(but they both are moisture-cured polyurethane coatings). According to RustBullet website and test results provided, rustbullet is just as good as POR-15 except rustbullet is not UV sensitive, does not "require" a top coat and does not require a special top coat(like ti-coat for POR-15) before taking conventional paint. That really got my attention. As a result I want to switch to RustBullet instead of POR-15. Here are my questions : 1. Has anyone in this forum used RustBullet? What's the impression? Does regular paint stick to it well? 2. According to their instructions, RustBullet should not be thinned for spraying. How much do I need for 2 coats on the whole car(shell,underside,doors,hood,hatch,suspension parts,every nook and cranny I can find)? 3. Since I want to order in small containers, I have to know how pint/quart/gallon convert between each other. RustBullet is claimed to have received 2 patents, but they never provided the patent number. I snooped around the USPTO website and found them anyway. Here are their patent numbers : 6,872,767 6,809,150 If you are interested to know what their patents are about, you can go to http://www.uspto.gov/ use the patent number to search. (If you can understand what the patent is saying, remember to share with us in plain English) THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Pint = 16oz Quart = 32oz Gallon = 128 oz Therefore 1 gallon equals 4 quarts equals 8 pints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dladow Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 I used rust bullet on my z, but I have not painted over it yet. The two or three rust spots on the outside of the car where I applied it look just like they did when I put it on, which was January of 2004. There is no sign of wear, chipping, fading or rust where I put the rust bullet. A good friend of mine, who is helping me with my Z and is also restoring a '68 Firebird, was impressed enough with it to use it on the inside of his Firebird. He ordered a gallon, did the entire inside of his car, and had more than half the gallon left over (applied with a brush, not sprayed). His brother also used it on the '68 Camaro he is restoring. We all used only one coat, not two. Didn't seem like two was necessary. None of us have used Por-15, so can't tell you if rust bullet is better. Rust bullet is less expensive and requires less work. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted June 30, 2005 Share Posted June 30, 2005 I really do not care for POOR 15. I had silver that turned "lime yellar" for a better description. I could not spray without runs and it did not last long... You can buy "Hammerite" at Home Depot which will cover about twice the area of the same amount of Poor 15 and thinned, it goes on flat without the hammered effect and can be painted over.. As far as I am concerned it is the chemical solution you treat the rusted area with that is the key to stopping the rust..you can buy the chemical treatment in bulk and any quality paint will probably seal the air from the trated metal... I have found that the undercoated (tar ?) zs are fairly rust free on the undercarriage (but I live on the west coast)...The undercarriage of my silver Z is rust free but there is surface rust at one corner of the hatch flange, the frontof the radiator support and in the inside creases of the front fenders................................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted June 30, 2005 Share Posted June 30, 2005 If you do a search, you will find that a great deal has been said by RacerX about Zero Rust. He has switched to that for all personal and most custom work - except where customer insists on POR-15. This stuff is great for inside and underneath the car - I would use a good epoxy primer on exterior/underhood. No matter what you use, treat the metal with PickleX before either type of primer and you won't have problems, as long as you get off the major rust first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK280z Posted June 30, 2005 Share Posted June 30, 2005 No matter what you use, treat the metal with PickleX before either type of primer and you won't have problems, as long as you get off the major rust first. PickleX? Would you please elaborate? Is this a rust treatment/ inhibitor? Is it available auto stores, or would I have to go to a paint store? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titanium Posted June 30, 2005 Share Posted June 30, 2005 Once it gets less humid here I'm going to start putting on my rust bullet. I'll take some pictures and let you guys know what I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 30, 2005 Share Posted June 30, 2005 http://www.autobodystore.com/coatings.htm That link gives a little about PickleX and Zero Rust and using them together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynekarnes Posted July 2, 2005 Share Posted July 2, 2005 greetings! i used the rust bullet all over the floors of the 72 z car nickel and dimeing me. used a heat gun and heavy metal putty knife to get the tar paper up. cleaned the floors with laquer thinner. the floor looked solid, no visible rust through, no flaky rust. i used a heavy duty hand held wire brush and scrubbed each side opening up some pin holes ... nothing major. cleaned it up with vaccum cleaner then used a wire brush on a drill ... this burned through the thin spots and left a few pin holes. vacuumed up the garbage. used laquer thinner and rag to clean the area. whacked the floor a few times with a large rubber mallet ... nothing punched through, no distortion ... floor is strong. grabbed the rust bullet and some fiber glass mat. straight out of the can, painted some over the pin holes, large enough to cover the area, regular coat of paint. laid the fiber glass mat, i had already trimmed to fit, over the area. using the end of the brush, straight up and down ( you may use a roller ), i tapped the glass into the rust bullet. once it was sticking to the floor, i poured a little bit ontop and working from the center out to the edges, i painted the rust bullet over the top of the glass mat. then another layer of glass on top ... same with the brush, tapped the new piece into the rust bulltet i just applied. i repeated this with 4 layers of mat. following the directions, i let it dry and then added another 2 layers of fiber glass mat. let that dry and according to directions, painted the entire floor with rust bullet. with the por 15, they recommend that one use the special material they sell, when ever doing the same thing i did. with rust bullet they tell you to buy fiber glass mat or other such material and use it. no reason for that with the rust bullet. plus with the por 15, you need to use all the special cleaners and neutralizers ... no need with rust bullet. that was almost a year ago ... no issues. i was emailing back and forth for a while with a por 15 distributor, he now sells rust bullet under one company name and por under another company name. he tells me he prefers and uses the rust bullet on his own projects and those he works on with friends. he sells por 15 as well. tells me, there is more profit selling the por 15, as one needs to use all the other products that por 15 sells to make it work correctly. but, he tells me it' a major PITA as he has to do much more hand holding with the por 15. his opinion, they both work. por 15 much more work, costs more. rust bullet, costs less in long run as you only need to buy the one product, easier to use and he thinks, as the rust bullet web site shows, especially when the por 15 isn't used exactly as per the instructions, the rust bullet is better than the por 15. he also added, when used properly, what ever one uses either product on, that item is going to be around long after the two of us are long gone. he told me, you want por 15, i will sell you por 15. you ask what i use, i use rust bullet. as you read, i bought and used the rust bullet. you can also spray rust bullet ... get it in those areas where you can't reach with a brush ... it will have a 99% chance of bonding and preventing any future rust. can't do that with the por 15 without buying their expensive cleaners, neutralizers and thinner. plus you better hope you got all of that stuff out of there, or the por 15 will not bond to the metal or rust ... eventually i need to get the z car in the air, get under it, remove all that tar undercoat and rust bullet the bottom of the floor boards. my 82 cents worth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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