280zedx Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 I too have a heat problem, i'm getting accurate CLT log measurements with megasquirt over 215 degrees. see similiar post- http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102838 I was wandering what kind of CFMs people's fan setups were? What would the stock belt driven fan put out? I'm looking at upgrading my fan setup and am wondering what's up with this 16" fan: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&Ntt=electric+fan&N=400006&part=PRM%2D19115&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch I'm suspicious...that's killer CFM for only 9.8amps and half the price of anything comparible. (also the 14" is the same CFM). Is this a typo, ripoff or pipedream? Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 I can't help but wonder if that's supposed to be 1950 CFM, not 2950. That would make more sense as the the 18" model is rated at only 2500 CFM! When I was researching my fan options, I saw some outrageous claims. For example, there is an electrical fan company called Zirgo that makes S blade style fans like Flex-a-lite. Derale, and others. According to the Zirgo datasheet, the Zirgo ZFU16S 16" s-blade fan puts out 3630 CFM at only 10A! http://www.zirgo.com/files/ZFU16S.pdf If you look closely, they also give an input wattage rating of 250W. That calculates out to 19A which is almost twice the current rating they give! I e-mailed Zirgo about this and they admitted that the current rating is wrong, but it's been six months and they still haven't corrected their literature. They ignored my questions about their super high CFM ratings. In fact, they have one 16" fan that's rated at 3950 CFM but only draws 7.5A! I contacted Flex-a-lite as well, and an engineer there replied to me and said that he had tested a Zirgo fan and didn't get anywhere near the flow that Zirgo claimed. From what I've seen, the Flex-a-lite model 398 is currently the most powerful 16" S-blade fan available on the market at 2500 CFM's at 17A, and that's what I chose. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/syclone.html So, be very weary of the CFM and current ratings for electric fans. The best thing to do is to compare the ratings for similar styles of fans from different companies, and be suspicious of any claims that are way outside of the average. Nigel '73 240ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Took the Z out for a drive today, was hot as hell at 100+ degrees, driving up in the mountains so hit a few uphill grades.... it's been a while since I've had it in those conditions. At any rate... yeah my temp gauge was getting up to around 3/4 of the way up... by the numbers on the guage around 220*, but as I said I've verified with a thermometer and it reads 15-20* high... so right around 200 degrees. I've been over this problem so many times, and it was agreed upon by the guys here that most likely I'm having an airflow problem. Because what happens is, on the street... anything from bumper to bumper traffic, to a nice 50mph cruise, my temps stay very nice... just above middle. Only on the freeway traveling at speed... 70mph plus, do temps start to really climb.. on cool days it only climbs about 10-15*... but on hot days as I said... up into the 200's. I'm already running some of that water wetter... though I want to lessen the ratio of coolant to water, I'm still at about 50/50. I also want to try a Nissan thermostat. But mostly, since the problem is only occuring at speed, I'm convinced it has more to do with all the holes/openings thru which air can go and bypass the radiator. Also I don't have the chin pan, which I've heard makes a big difference. Anyways, just thought I'd chime that in. By the way, even boosting up the hill, it never got above 220 reading on the gauge, so it's still keeping temps in check, not just running wild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 you know I was watching some video of my and my buddy messin around in my car BEFORE i did the turbo swap and everything was stock.. and i hit the PAUSE button and looked at my guage.. it's a little under 3/4 during the summer!! With MegaSquirt I had to add a new coolant temp sensor, and my PDA displays around 190 degrees cruising and 200 degrees under HARD driving and it will shoot up to 215 by the most with hard driving.. so now i'm not that worried... if it's ALWAYS above 3/4 or close the 250 degrees than you have a problem.. I think we are just freakn out over nothin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx260 Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 From What Every Body Has Experianced Hitting 200 And Occational Peeks To The 215 Range Seems Typical. I Guess I Keep One Eye On It And The Other Looking For A Vapor Trail In The Rear View And Move On To Something Else To Worry About.ha.nigel I Just Put It On Cap Lock And Its All Caps On My End But Changes Somewhere Between Here And The Post.twilight Zone Stuff.does Any One Know If The Stock Sending Unit For Oil Temp Will Work An Autometer Guage Or Will I Have To Spring For A Unit Form Them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra510 Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 I don't think anyone should worry about 200 in hot weather. I have about as good a setup as I can with an aluminum Griffin rad, hood vent, Water Wetter, etc., and going up steep grades the temps will rise to 200. Again, especially with a turbo you are putting alot of heat into the system. Last week in temps over 100 it stayed around 202 just cruising. I'm not worried at all, new cars can run a decent amount hotter. I ran Thunderhill for a few 20 minute sessions in 105 + last week and the highest it every got was 210 (running 16 psi) which I was plenty happy with. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zedx Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 This temperature concensus makes me feel a bit less paranoid. Just to point out- most people are talking about their coolant temp, not there cyclinder head temp, which i believe runs 10-20 degrees hotter. While it may not be frying the engine, I beleive it is forcing me to run richer than i want to - heat is the enemy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 yeah thanks guys this post is definately easing my worries a bit as well. I hadn't really worried about it in a long time... I mean you guys eased my worries LAST year... but then it's been SO long since it's been this hot outside (socal, about 105 average a day over the last week) and this was the first time I had the Z out in the daytime... so I got a LITTLE worried again, but at least once it hit 3/4 it stayed solidly there. But still, if all you guys are saying this is normal, then I won't worry about it. I do remember specifically though, when I had my built up N/A motor in this same car, same gauge, but of course a different head temp sensor, back then the gauge never got above half. Only after the turbo swap did it get this high. At any rate, I picked up another bottle of that Redline Water Weter, and will drain my coolant system and do as it recommends, 15% coolant, the rest straight water and the water wetter... from everyone elses experiences here, and even the guy at PAW where I picked the stuff up at, seems to agree that should get me at least a good 10-20 degrees drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 At any rate, I picked up another bottle of that Redline Water Weter, and will drain my coolant system and do as it recommends, 15% coolant, the rest straight water and the water wetter. Remember to use distilled water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 yep distilled water and I'll get the air bubbles out afterwards as you prescibed to me long ago as well. I'm curious though, I mean *I* know the obvious reasons why you would want to use distilled water, but on the Redline bottle, it does specify that it works fine with distilled or just straight tap water. Maybe there's stuff in the water wetter than negates the buildup of sediment with regular tap water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 No...they are just saying that it is compatible with tap water, not saying that it is recommended...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 23, 2005 Share Posted July 23, 2005 true and what do you guys thing about the 15% coolant... yay or nay? I've heard people say they are running straight water, but never heard the 15% coolant mentioned til I read it on the bottle... does it matter much either way? Tim do YOU run this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 23, 2005 Share Posted July 23, 2005 true Tim do YOU run this stuff? No. To me it is a band aid to a problem that needs fixing, not a symptom that needs patching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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