zero Posted July 25, 2005 Author Share Posted July 25, 2005 it is satin black rustoleum, thinned a tiny bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 it is satin black rustoleum, thinned a tiny bit. I asumed it was rattle can. Am I wrong? If it's rattle can how did you thin it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 25, 2005 Author Share Posted July 25, 2005 nope had a couple quarts lying around the house from painting railings, put it in my spray gun and went at it. On the turbo swap front, i found out i lied, there is also one other connector that is unknown, it is an 8 prong plug with only 5 wires going into it, it comes out of the main harness at about the same point as the other unknown 8 prong, on the interior side of the firewall. just to let you guys know. I think i will post this particular problem in the ignition and electrical section as a question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john kosmatka Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Allright for the connector by the fi relay... http://photobucket.com/albums/a5/blue9kaero/?action=view¤t=6pincon2.jpg Green wire- goes to fuel pump relay and has a wire splice going to the pump Blue red stripe- goes to fuel pump relay white and yellow wires are not used, according to all my research black with white strip is my only wire in question i believe it also goes to the fuel pump relay but not sure???? need some help on that! So far thats all my research on the 6 pin connector On to the 8 pin connector From what Ive gathered, http://photobucket.com/albums/a5/blue9kaero/?action=view¤t=8pincon.jpg Green w/ blue stripe--ground Yellow, directly to the right of the green w/ blue in my pic-- goes to Z's ign harness yellow w/ white, right off the yellow wire above-- goes to the blue wire under the dash of the Z, drivers side, which goes to the ballast resistor. Use at your own risk.. This info is from research Ive gathered on the site while planning my swap. Most of which from Dave, cygnusx1 on here, don't know him but his diagram is a good start for wiring going into a Z. heres his starter diagram... http://photobucket.com/albums/a5/blue9kaero/?action=view¤t=TurboZ-WiringDiagram-DRAFT-1.jpg hope that helps atleast a little bit. Thats going into a fuel injected Z, but it may give you a start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 26, 2005 Author Share Posted July 26, 2005 thanks for the help, though a good bit of that doesnt really apply as i dont have the ignition harness like a 280z does, I'm quite stumped and think im gonna order megasquirt, but i would still like to get it running as i havent driven my car in two months, and dont want to wait another one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john kosmatka Posted July 26, 2005 Share Posted July 26, 2005 Yeah I was figuring that would be the case. Although from that you can tell where the wires go, one to the ballast resistor, one ground, and Im sure the other is a signal from the ignition switch to make it all work. You may want to try pm'ing someone who has done the swap with the same year setups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 26, 2005 Author Share Posted July 26, 2005 yea,your right. where in the 240 dash would the ballast resistor be located. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 26, 2005 Author Share Posted July 26, 2005 I am just loosing my mind now. I really just want this car to run, I would like to make it to for the z convention in NY in august. I can't seem to get it to run with the stock set up, and I'm not sure if I could get a megasquirt n spark extra set up assembled and running in time, not to mention that some of the stuff surrounding megasquirt seems pretty confusing too. This is officially a call for help, i am getting frustrated to the point of making stupid mistakes now and would like some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 Zero.. me and Mobythevan (Bryan) got the puppy up and wired and running in the first try in 1 day!! buy a pre-assembled MegaSquirt unit from http://www.DIYautotune.com and the harness if you can afford it.. and swap it in.. using Moby's settings.. and it will fire up right away! You can do it MAX in 3 days.. 1 day if you have a buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 27, 2005 Author Share Posted July 27, 2005 what other parts will i need to have it control ignition, so far i only know of the gm hei module. that means im looking at... Assembled megasquirt wiring harness water temp sensor intake air sensor gm hei am i missing anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 In order to run MegaSquirt I got rid of my mechanical distributer on my 280Z and bought an 82-83 280ZX turbo distributer, because it has a BUILT in CAS (crank angle sensor). Basically it has only 4 wires to hook up to MegaSquirt, and the MegaSquirt unit completly controlls the fuel in the car AND the spark timing!!! In order to install a 82-83 280ZX turbo distributer, you will need the dizzy, and the oil shaft! Basically the dizzy rotates and spins with the oil shaft, and the N/A shaft has a smaller output and will not fit the ZX turbo dizzy. In order to install this 82-83 distributer i simply removed the old distributer, and removed 4 bolts off of the oil pump. The pump drops right down, and the oil shaft will literally fall out! Then push up the new one (be careful to put it in the same way as the old one to keep the timing correct) and bolt on the new dizzy! As for new sensors, on an older Z engine you will need 2 things... the Air Intake Sensor, and the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The MegaSquirt manual asks for the following: ------------------------- Turbocharged or supercharged engines should use an open-element air temperature sensor for a faster response time. Here are some reported part number equivalents for both the coolant and air temperature sensors GM #25036751 Standard AX1 GP SORENSEN 779-19001 AC DELCO 213-190 NIEHOFF IGNITION TS83631 was DR-136W WELLS SU107 MSD 2320 (includes connector) ----------------------- Autozone should have the wells part number. So all you need is one open element sensor for the air temperature, and the coolant sensor should be closed. (basically a brass cover over the sensor) Check out my CarDomain website and see my pictures on page 13, for some pics of the coolant temperature sensor and how I bolted it on, and the intake sensor on the intercooler piping. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/330795/13 The coolant sensor is actually hiding in one of those pics.. but it's right under the upper radiator hose, threaded into the brass fitting which I all got from Home Depot! and I used all of those fittings in a spare port in the thermostat housing, which was plugged up with a bolt. So it was very easy to install! Ohh yeh.. and with MegaSquirt you DO NOT need a Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator OR rising rate fuel pressure regulator!! So you can either spend your hard earned money on an AFPR or RRFPR or use the same amount of cash, and buy MegaSquirt which allows you to tune and control nearly every aspect of your car! BTW the MegaSquirt unit is built to handle 22psi! I needed the coolant temp sensor in addition to the stock sensor. In the turbo engine's, the CHT is mounted along the side of the block inbetween i think Cylinder 5 and 6. You can use that sensor, from the turbo block or go out and spend $8 on a new CHT just in case your sensor is faulty. As for the stock ECU, I actually kept ALL of the stock wiring in the car, and I simply spliced into the original harness. I have an Factory Service Manual and wiring diagram so it was easy to find which wires were what. I did put the old ECU in my basement, but I could probably still have it in the car, but it would be useless. The reason I couldn't mount the MS controller in the stock kickpanel location is because I have the relay board attached to the MS unit, and it was too long to fit into the stock location. Someday I plan on moving it, but that might be a while.. the wiring is a mess right now.. LoL Ok.. yeh.. that was alot of typing.. and probably wasn't organized well.. but that's ALL you should need.. and the GM HEI.. =) MegaSquirt Relay board if you choose to make life easy GM HEI Water/Coolant temp sensor Air intake temp sensor Wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 27, 2005 Author Share Posted July 27, 2005 just out of curiosity, what does the relay board do in reference to the megasquirt, and how does it make life easier. I already have the 83 turbo dizzy so this should be relatively simple, I think im gonna order the stuff today. Thanks alot guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 27, 2005 Author Share Posted July 27, 2005 nevermind i answered my own question. Did you need any special connector to attach your relay board directly to the megasquirt, as i dont really feel like buying a cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 27, 2005 Author Share Posted July 27, 2005 something just occured to me, do i really need the harness and the relay board, doesnt the relay board plug into the db37 terminal of the megasquirt, making the wiring harness kinda useless? I already ordered both but I can always change it as I am paying by money order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john kosmatka Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 I was just wondering that myself, as you guys in this post have convinced me to go megasquirt, I might not even mess with the stock stuff now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 No you don't need a spiral cable or anything like that.. See.. they just plug RIGHT in! =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 28, 2005 Author Share Posted July 28, 2005 do you need anything to connect the relay board to the megasquirt, ie a male to female adapter or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 28, 2005 Author Share Posted July 28, 2005 started preping the engine for megasquirt, just a quick question. Which of these things is the stock popoff valve which I will be using for a while. Also, is it alright to get rid of the rest of this stuff and block it off until i get an earlier intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 28, 2005 Author Share Posted July 28, 2005 after doing some reading i have a couple more questions. Since I will be using stock injectors for now, I think I will have to use dropping resistors for the injectors, which ones and where would i put them inline to the injectors, and would i be able to get them from radioshack or should I order them online. Also I see most everyone has switched to either the 240sx throttle or just the tps from that car, is this necessary to connect to megasquirt. are there any other little niggling little things I should pick up in the megasquirt n spark install guide I saw something about pullup/ pull down resistors, which should I get and again, where should I get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 You will need to run the 240SX throttle body or TPS.. The stock 280Z and 280ZX throttle bodies have a TVS or simply an on/off switch for full throttle, cruising, or idle... MegaSquirt needs a potentiometer type TPS which tells the computer if the throttle body is 50% open or 63% open etc to help control the fuel flow! As for the dropping resistors.. here is a direct quote from MobytheVan's MegaSquirt HOW TO / INSTALL GUIDE! First thing I did was remove the AFM, stock ECU and the 83 turbo wiring harness. I just had the EFI wiring harness from the 83 turbo car, some people rewire their whole car for the turbo swap so this part is open to interpretation. I bought six 6ohm 25watt resistors for $6 and made my own dropping resistor pack to use with the low impedance stock injectors. The MS manual explains how to use pulse width modulation (PWM) or dropping resistors. I also built the MS relay board which is very nice because it gives me a relay for power to the MSnS computer and a relay for the fuel pump. It also has a relay for FIDLE, but that is no longer used with MSnS. In Fact... ZERO have you had a chance to look over Moby's installation guide?! I would highly highly suggest reading it over to get an idea of everything and HOW to install everything! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88246 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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