ZX Structural Strength?

[260DET]

Went for a ride in a ZX two seat coupe and was impressed with the apparent strength of the body, compared with the s30. Even though the suspension needed some work, the body seemed tight and didn't react over bumps.

 

Is that a realistic view? I'd also be interested in thoughts and experiences concerning any weak points in the coupe body and how they may be strengthened. For example, do they crack anywhere?

 

I'd be looking at installing a half cage well tied into the body. That works well with the s30.

[datsunlover]

I've heard that the 'X' stands for "Extra metal" in a 280zx.. Now, weather or not that's true, it makes some sence as the zx's are a bit heavier than the s30's and you would think that after 10 years of building those, Nissan would probly have made some improvements in the structural soundness, although the suspension got a little 'softer' and whent more towards comfort rather than performance.. I don't know about cracking, but after a few years in the salt they rust just as bad as the first gen Z's. From what I've seen, it's the front frame rails and floor that is/can get week, but subframe conectors would probly be enough to stiffen it right up.

[80LS1T]

Well if you've got t-tops, they tent to get a lot of stress at the pillar right behind the door and before that side window(b-pillar). It tends to crack paint right there. Mine hasnt done that yet but I havent had my V8ZX on the road very long(and its not being driven right now either). I have a 4 point rollbar but I dont know yet if thats enough to solve this isssue. I also have a set of front strut bars that I made for the front.

 

 

Guy

[Guest nitr0]

I always thought the X stood for luXury, which means more weight, power windows, air/cor, 2 extra seats, T-Tops, more gauges and electronics. I dont think they meant eXtra metal, and if they did they meant extra crappy rusty metal....

 

When i get my car upto Sydney (Australia) I'll be gettins some F + R strut braces developed through Whiteline for my 280zx, hopefully to help support the power of a worked RB25DET. After the research i've done I havent seen TOO much chassis re-enforcements in the beefed up Jap ZX's, however alot of the 1st gen ones i've seen have cages and braces everywhere.

 

Another user on this forum from Australia was looking at installing an R32 Skyline Rear Subframe, i'm thinking to help stop the *** end dropping down when you accel, bigger brakes / 5 Lug wheels, LSD and also the R32 subframe is no doubt stronger. The S13 Rear Subframe is almost identicle, i cant remember the exact differences but we have a reco'd one in the workshop. I also have the pictures he emailed me of the R32 Subframe mounted on top of the S130 one, and his notes on the conversion if anyones interested....

 

Also i second 80LT1 with the T-Tops, get one without T-Tops if your concerned about strength, personally i like mine for those sunny Melbourne days we dont get many of

[Guest 81na ZX]

With T-Tops they are ok. If the T-tops are out, the car jiggles like a bowl full og Jell-O

 

and a 79 280ZX is lighter buy about 100lbs than a 78 280Z (coupe vs. coupe)

[EZ-E]

That is true what 81 Na says, with the tops out it feels like its really wobbly, I have had a Supra in the past with the targa top and it wasnt as bad of a feel though you completely notice the difference with them out.

[Phyxius]

hmm...looks like i should be in good shape, then. I have a '79 base model, no ac, no ps, 1 electric mirror, no spare....add an ic and a turbo, though...

[260DET]

Thanks all, wonder what John's experience is

 

It looks like I'll have to get a RHD one from Japan seeing Nissan never imported then into Oz. Definately will be a solid top, preferably without the weight adding comfort junk.

[Guest bastaad525]

I've owned two 280zx's and one 240z, I would say the zx's were DEFINATLEY more solid. My first was an '81 2+2 with T-tops, and yeah with the T-tops out, the car was a lot more wiggly, and made a lot more creaking noise, but I would say it was probably STILL more stiff than the 240z even with the t-tops out. That car was bone stock though and had old suspension too.

 

My second ZX was an '81 coupe without t-tops, and I had fixed that one up with upgraded suspension and such. That car was very solid IMO, had no rust except a small amount around the windshield. The only thing it did 'wrong' was it would squat like crazy on hard acceleration, which I hear is very common problem among all ZX's, a problem with the rear suspension geometry. But in turns, it was a fairly solid car.

 

The 240, by comparison, feels like it's made of rubber... having only half of a proper frame, it flexes like crazy when pushed hard. I don't know how much of this is due to age, and how much is just do to the half-frame design, or how much of it is due to the fact that the Z is just so light. I'm sure the fact that most of my bushings are shot... isn't helping things any

 

But I do have a decent suspension setup, eibach pro kit springs and tokico shocks... which helps but it's still far from being 'stiff'. I imagine it would need new bushings all around, plus lots of stiffening like a full roll cage, shock tower braces, larger anti-roll bars, etc. to make it anything near like what a newer car would feel like.

 

Supposedly the later S30's, 280z's are much stiffer bodied.

[datsunlover]

 

Supposedly the later S30's' date=' 280z's are much stiffer bodied.[/quote']

 

I'd say thats probly true, but when the rust moster gets them, they are still pretty flexy. Mine was awefull when I got it, and took 2.5 sheets of body steel and 2x2 Sq tube subframe welded in to make it half decent. I still feel and hear it twist when pushed hard in corners, or when I can't avoid a big bump. "creak, bang..thud..."