Yanos240z Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 Can anyone fill in the missing information? I have searched this forum and did not find the info I was looking for. UPDATE: called ARP and spoke to someone there that was "sorta" helpful. I was told that they do NOT make a main stud kit for the RB series. Additionally, I verified the head stud part numbers for the 25 & 26. RB26DETT HEAD - 202-4207 (verified) MAIN - ?? 202-5406 ?? (can't be right because this is an L-Series part #) ROD - RB25DET HEAD - 202-4301 MAIN - ROD - Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Can anyone fill in the missing information? I have searched this forum and did not find the info I was looking for. RB26DETT Head - Part # ARP202-4207 Rod - 300zx TT Main - ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 I've also seen where someone posted the part # 202-5401 which is for the L20 motor. I'd sure like to get this straitened out asap so that I can buy a set to install while my oil pan is being swaped for the alum pan.... *** calling; Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems Japan **** Matt, can you please provide us with any info you may have on the main studs for the RB? If I knew what all to tell ARP on the phone (thread size/ pitch/ length) I would order a set and post the part # info here in the thread so others down the line can look it up for their builds... I know most guys use Greddy, Tomei and HKS brand studs over there, but the specs is what we need here to order some from ARP. I'm sure you know that info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Are the 300ZXTT rod bolts the same as SR20 rod bolts? It was my understanding that the ARP SR20 rod bolts work on the RB26, I may have been mis-informed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted August 14, 2005 Share Posted August 14, 2005 The stock bolt is 99mm from end to under the bolt head (there is no washer). The thread is 10mm by 1.5mm pitch. The length of the threaded portion of the bolt is 28mm. I use either HKS bolts or ARP head studs. The stock rods are weak enough that they will elongate the big end journal and ruin the bearing if you're turning rpm's high enough to require aftermarket bolts. I put Pauter rods in every engine going over 500hp. I use the stock bolts for the crank cap. I don't even know of an off-the-shelf aftermarket bolt for these. Keeping in mind that all of my customer engines are street driven, max hp is around 800-850, with occational rpm bursts to 10,000; I have never seen, nor heard of, a main girdle failure. The one piece girdle system shares the load between all of the crank cap bolts and it's virtually impossible for the cap to "walk", so high strength is not really necessary. This is another reason to use the RB26 block and oil pan rail. A stiff pan bolted to the outer, large bolt, ring will dramatically increase cylinder rigiddity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Slo-Gin Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Are the 300ZXTT rod bolts the same as SR20 rod bolts? It was my understanding that the ARP SR20 rod bolts work on the RB26, I may have been mis-informed... Anyone have more info about this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taffy Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 RB26DETT Main Stud Kit ARP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karay240 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 the ARP rod bolts are the same as Z32 bolts. the mains, however, are not produced by ARP according to their knowledge. that's why we have custom bolts made by them, and offer the main stud kit for the RB26. (about $200ish, I think) As for the comment about the main gurdle keeping the bottom end in check, I don't 100% agree w/. Reason being, we've build everything from 400~1200hp rb26~28, and I know for a FACT that nissan tries to cut costs by using the crappiest bolts. This is why it's a common problem to toss a rod on the 26. This is the problem that we encountered w/ the automotive forums' N1 R34, AND BeeRacing's R324 @ Irwindale @ the last D1. These motors have something in common--a rod bolt gave way and now they both have a hole in the block. lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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