VinhZXT Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Guys, Anyone using the aluminum driveshaft? If so how do you adapt/weld it to your flange to mount to the Z? Is the driveshaft the same for the auto and manual? I am shopping around for a driveshaft for my LS1 project. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Anyone using the aluminum driveshaft?Not me.If so how do you adapt/weld it to your flange to mount to the Z?The ds just has to be shortened. The adapter bolts to your pinion flange - no difference here betw. alum. or steel shaft.Is the driveshaft the same for the auto and manual?I believe they are different lengths, but since you have to shorten it, it doesn't matter. I used an A4 ds with my T56. I am shopping around for a driveshaft for my LS1 project.IMO, alum ds is for bling. In this application, the thing ends up like 2 feet long, so the weight savings is minimal. I would also make sure your local ds shop can work with aluminum before you decide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 pm Ls1240z I know that he has a aluminum drive shaft for sale that wil fit a 240-280z with a ls1 and r200 rear end. He went with a q45 diff so he can no longer use it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 IMO, alum ds is for bling. In this application, the thing ends up like 2 feet long, so the weight savings is minimal. I would also make sure your local ds shop can work with aluminum before you decide. Ron Tyler was convinced that the less rotating mass of an aluminum driveshaft was one of the keys to avoiding driveline vibrations. He said the shortness of the shaft combined with the relatively higher rotations speeds (due to the generally lower rear end ratios) made an aluminum shaft that much more important in a Z. Just another man's opinion I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 Thanks for the replies. I was just wondering what you guys are using because I hardly find any steel driveshaft on Ebay. I definitely want to go with the steel driveshaft cuz I can do the welding at home and bring it to the shop for balancing. One more question: When you guys removed the old tranny mounts did you have to remove the whole re-enforcement piece that weld to the tunel too? This is the V shape piece that the tranny mounts spot welded to. Thanks Vinh PS. I am in the process of trial fitting the engine and building the mount like Cyrus and Machoir did. I will slot my support beam so that I can move the engine side to side (not much). I am also paying very close attention to the straightness of the driveline relative to the original driveline. I am measure the old driveline (L6) relative to several points to the car/frame and then when I put the LS1 motor in I can do the same measurements. This will get me as close as possible to the original driveline. This hopefully will have no vibrations at the end. I will be using the stock headers and they both are interfered by the TC mounting tab. I have just solve this problem by cutting the lower pipe of the header (where it was welded) and pull them apart. Now I can just rotate the lower piece a bit inward and they should be cleared of the TC mounts. Will post pictures in a bit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevej Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I wouldn't try drilling the spot welds, even with a spot weld drill it was difficult in there. I finally just got in there with a cutoff wheel and cut the mounts off flush with the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I just cut the mount off and left the re-enforcment plates there. Mine is a 78 tho and might be a little different. I am using the driveshaft supplied by John's cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted August 17, 2005 Author Share Posted August 17, 2005 Thanks DaleMX. I did a measurement of the 4L60E and it looks like I should not have to remove the re-enforcement piece. It will be a PITA if I have to remove that piece. Anyway I have a few pictures of the stock exhaust header that I cut up and rotate them to get them to clear the TC mounts. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/2 Also I had removed the old engine mounts. I am trying to make a little tab to mount the alternator to the lower driver side. I will try to keep the AC compressor in the stock location (lower passenger side) . It will be very tight from the measurements I made with the AC compressor and the alternator on. PS. Dale I have a 77 Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 If you do your own drive shaft sectioning and welding make sure you get the u-joint phasing correct. Some people miss this. Just my experiance: I've done two V8Z swaps, both with aluminum drive shafts, and have no driveline vibration in either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted August 17, 2005 Author Share Posted August 17, 2005 Steve, I have an air drill and it's small enough to get in that spot without a problem. Thanks for the heads up. Dan Juday, Thanks for the info on the drive shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iflyfast1 Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 A word of caution... I tried to have my Camaro aluminum driveshaft shortened and they couldn't weld it (Drive Line Service, San Jose). They said it was some wierd alloy. And they make custom aluminum drive shafts. I ended up having a custom drive shaft made (probably a lot stronger too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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