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iflyfast1

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Everything posted by iflyfast1

  1. In my opinion, I think some people may be comparing a worn out stock seat to a newer Miata seat and then thinking they sit higher. It also depends on the year of the Miata seat because there are differences. I think some of the early seats require that you cut the seat pan to get them to fit right. I've got some for sale in the classifieds with Z rails mounted. They are out of the car. PM me if you need any specific pictures.
  2. These are mine. 2004 Miata seats. Seat height is about the same as stock (maybe a bit lower), and they provide much better lateral support. Pretty comfortable over all. They will fit in all Zs including the hard to fit 280Z. Shameless plug These are currently for sale in the classifieds here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147406
  3. You may want to talk to the guys at Miracle Auto in Pleasanton. http://www.miraclepleasanton.com/ I've heard this shop paints a lot of cars for the Goodguys show.
  4. The painter got some overspray on my Panasports as well although mine are gunmetal grey. A little mild rubbing compound on a rag and some elbow grease cleaned mine up without hurting the finish.
  5. My experience with un-Precision has not been very good. I bought the MSA complete Precision kit and I have since replaced almost everything with OEM. The rear hatch inner seal leaked exhaust and the doors wouldn't close. Replaced both with OEM and haven't had a problem since. Used Precision seals on the windshield and the rear hatch glass. Both leak. Just scored a set of NOS OEM seals and I plan to replace both seals soon. You need to make sure your sitting down though when you get the price. In my humble opinion, Precision stuff is a waste of money.
  6. There's a great deal on some almost new HPs and Tokico springs in the classifieds:http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139384 Might as well throw in a plug for myself...
  7. Well after driving the car for a couple of years, I finally got around to getting the car dyno tuned yesterday. It made 371 RWHP and 380 RWTQ. Not too bad for a stock LS6 through a single 3" exhaust. The tune only added about 10 HP but the response is much much better. Overall, the tune was well worth the money Dyno.pdf
  8. I've been a member here for many many years. I've probably got in excess of $30,000 invested in this Z. I've bought a lot of parts for this car. Overall, I have had very good success with all the vendors I've dealt with except this one. I bought a fiberglass BRE rear Spoiler from Paulo. It did not fit at all, and it was very thin at the top edge and was cracked. Also, one of the attachment fittings was rattling around in the inside. My car was being painted at the time, and the body shop commented it was the worst piece of sh@t he had ever seen. I emailed Paulo several times for a refund or replacement but received no replies. What's interesting is that when I first contacted him about buying a part he responded in minutes but when I had a problem, I NEVER HEARD FROM HIM AGAIN. When I called the phone number listed on his website, it was no longer in service. I ended up cutting it in half and throwing it away. I then bought an MSA spoiler and it fit perfect with very little prep. I could kick myself for not taking a picture before throwing it away. The inside of this spoiler was just a train wreck. No wonder it was cracking. I'm suprised it even stayed together in shipping. I guarantee you that no one on this site would buy a part from him if they saw what I saw. To this day, I'm am still amazed at how poor the quality of this part was, and I've been building cars for over 30 years. If you decide to buy from this guy, good luck. You will need it.
  9. I'm running the LS6/Z06 clutch set up as well. Been working great for 3+ years, but I haven't done any track time. I think next time I would step up to the LS7 clutch.
  10. I bought a fiberglass BRE rear Spoiler from Paulo. It did not fit at all, and it was very thin at the top edge and was cracked. My car was being painted at the time, and the body shop commented it was the worst piece of sh@t he had ever seen. I emailed Paulo several times for a refund or replacement but received no replies. When I called the phone number listed on his website, it was no longer in service. I ended up cutting it in half and throwing it away. I then bought an MSA spoiler and it fit perfect and required very little prep for paint.
  11. No. I drove my car to several body shops in the Bay Area for estimates. Estimates ranged from about $6000 to over $12,000!!! That's for taking the car down to bare metal and building it up from there, one color with clear coat. Williams had several Z's there when I stopped by and the quality looked very nice. I took my car somewhere else for significantly less but my car sat for almost 10 months before it was done. My car was very straight as well with no rust and it took them a whole lot more that 4 or 5 hours labor!!! I think the guy lost his shirt on doing my car because he asked not to refer him.
  12. I did a cam/head swap on my LS6 on my 260Z a few months ago. Yes, it can be done in the car. Yes, it is a PITA. The radiator and grill need to come out. Maybe the bumper as well (My bumper was already off so I don't know for sure). I have an aftermarket condensor and had enough hose slack to get enough room to clear. It took a full days worth of work. The cam/head swap itself is easy, but it takes time to get everything pulled off and my back isn't what it used to be
  13. I'm using the stock Camaro fans with the JTR radiator as well, but as I recall it took a fair amount of trimming to get a good fit. Also, had to make a couple of pieces out of ABS sheet to get a good seal but all in all not a big deal. This system has served me very well during the past couple of years. No cooling issues on a 100 degree plus days with the A/C blasting. I don't think this fan would clear the auto trans cooling lines for anyone with an automatic.
  14. I mounted mine on the firewall on the passenger side. Only problem I can see with that location is it's kind of a pain to get to if I ever need to.
  15. No worries. They sell a solvent at most automotive paint stores that's made to take it off. The car had also been recently waxed so I don't think the bond is that great anyway.
  16. My spoiler came with 1/8" foam bonded to the bottom of the spoiler. I had removed this (which was a pita) before I sent the spoiler to the painter. When I installed it, I used some automotive double backed tape that I had laying around. I think it was about 1/16" thick or so. The ends that overlaped my fenders looked close too but I ended up with about an 1/8" gap after it was bolted down which seems about right (nothing hits when I close the hatch).
  17. I recently bought a BRE spoiler from MSA after spending multiple hours trying to get that piece of sh*t that I bought from Paulo at Aeroworks to fit. Install of the MSA spoiler is easy. Mine had 2 metal inserts that were bonded into the bottom of the spoiler. You just drill two holes thru the bottom of the hatch and you bolt it on. The fit was near perfect and all that it required was a light sanding before paint.
  18. I've got a spare that came off I think an early Maxima (Sorry don't remember the year). It's 16" and fairly narrow. it clears my 240sx calipers with no problem. Will not work on the front of mine though because I'm running Wilwoods.
  19. Pete, I recently went through this when I was looking for panels for my 260Z. From what I've seen, the 240z, 260z, and and 280Z panels through 76 are the same shape but some of the panel mounting holes etc. are in different locations. As I recall the window mech is also in a different place plus you have the door pull differences. The 77 and 78 panels are a totally different animal. Not only is the lock mech in a different location but the panel shape/size is different. I've got a set of each but none of them are in very good shape. I actually glassed over the set that I'm going to put in my car when I get it back from paint. I would suggest supplying the panels without any holes cut. That way they should work for 70-76 Z's.
  20. Mine are +6mm. I bought them from MSA.
  21. I have Tokico springs on my late 260Z with no problems. Before I had installed my springs, I had called the folks at Tokico. They told me that for the 240Z, the front spring rate is 140 (progressive) and the rear is 165 (linear). The front progressive rate combined with the low spring rate is probably what is causing the problem in the front. I would think this problem would be exasperated with a heavier V-8 engine. The late 260Z and 280Z springs from Tokico are 185 (linear) front and 200 (linear) rear. As I said, I have experienced no problems with this combination. I plan to go to coilovers some time in the future. When I do, I plan to use the same spring rates since I think it provides a nice compromise for spirited street driving.
  22. I got a quote yesterday on chrome for my 72 rear bumper only. I had already welded the holes. They quoted me $825!!! My cars in paint so I guess I'll have the rest of the holes in the body filled and run without a rear bumper.
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