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HybridZ

Solid steel diff mount needed?


pjo046

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Why not go with one of the other solutions? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100963

 

In the stock Z drivetrain every part has the ability to move: engine, transmission and differential in the front and the back. If you solid mount any one part of the driveline then all of that torque goes straight to the solidly mounted part. So the engine torque transfers throught the transmission and the driveshaft and acts directly on the front diff mount, which can cause trouble with ITS type hp and torque. I can only imagine that 400 hp would shred it pretty quickly.

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I guess folks have forgotted about the ITS diff strap trick. Running the diff strap over the diff snout and over top of the diff mounting bolts (instead of the diff snout itself) causes the diff mount to compress hard against the front diff crossmember when the crossmember is bolted up. You'll need a floor jack (or trans jack if on a lift) to press the crossmember up enough to get the crossmember bolts started.

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I guess folks have forgotted about the ITS diff strap trick. Running the diff strap over the diff snout and over top of the diff mounting bolts (instead of the diff snout itself) causes the diff mount to compress hard against the front diff crossmember when the crossmember is bolted up. You'll need a floor jack (or trans jack if on a lift) to press the crossmember up enough to get the crossmember bolts started.

 

Well, that wimpy L6 you're used to will probably be o.k. with that solution (just kidding!!!)

 

People doing the JTR V8 swap will want to consider the Ron Tyler front diff mount solution, as it lowers the diff farther than the other solutions, allowing the u-joint angles for the driveshaft to be 1 degree and equal.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=72351

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