Monster L28ET motor build up. to stroke or not.Tim240z get ur head out of the gutter!

[Guest ON3GO]

Then put your nozzles on the underside of the intake. Now they're invisible except to the detailed prying eyes.

 

As far as your intake goes...you're going to have to do quite a bit of work to it' date=' but I believe it to be possible. Make friends with an aluminum welder, and life will be a lot easier....[/quote']

 

i dont want even the best prying eyes to see whats up under the hood.

i can get tricky, so ill find away to hide a nitrous kit.. just will be harder then normal.

 

and i can weld aluminum pretty good, so ill be okay on that.

just finding the right person to do all that work to that intake will be the hard thing.

 

mike

[Guest ON3GO]

Do we want to get another group buy for the flat top pistons we had a few years ago for a 3 liter? I'd make another couple of motors with them!

 

Joe

 

what were the specs on the pistons?

maybe..

was thinking of getting some custom ross forged pistons made up, then coated.

 

mike

[rags]

They were from Ross. 1mm down in the hole, flat top. with 1mm gasket 10-1 comp ratio with a E31 and 8.5-1 with a P90. If you want more info I'd have to go in the garage and get the spec sheet.

 

Joe

[Guest ON3GO]

fully forged?

what was the price?

 

mike

[zbuild]

If you mount your intercooler behind your grill, paint it black and make up a bit of tin to cover over the top it would be less noticable, but some sort of intercooling is going to be really handy to get you up into the big HP.

 

When running into the big HP, a top quality computer is a necessity.

I run a Motec and they are up there among the best. . .they do cost, but you get your money's worth. I changed from a cheap one to the motec and picked up 70Kw (93.8hp) at the rear wheels!

 

Dont forget to spend some money on a good quality harmonic balancer. a good one of these will reduce the chances of a broken crank.

 

Mine isn't a sleeper like yours is going to be.. . .its more of the show variety, but it would be good to have one that looked fairly average (read crappy) on the outside and after you'd blown some poor unsuspecting vette driver into the weeds you could lift the bonnet and watch his face being illuminated by the glowing engine and engine bay : )

Cheers - Zbuild

[Guest ON3GO]

well it will be running a Microtech, like all of my cars.

 

still, even with the fmic hidden, you will still see the piping... so J-pipe it is.

 

mike

[510six]

I would suggest going with the 3 liter.The extra displacement and torque doesn`t hurt.A 3.1 89mm bore would make for some pretty thin cylinder walls The current and last 3 liter that I had built uses a 87.5 mm bore and 133mm Cunningham rods.I plan on making 300rwh on 15psi with methanol injection and 400rwh with more methanol with the liquid/air IC pumping ice water.And 550 rwh on a port dry N20 shot.The plan for the EFI will be a AEM EMS system as it has almost every conceivable option know to man.I would go with the bigger motor.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134

[Guest ON3GO]

ya 2.9 or 3.0 is in the plan..

 

mike

[thehelix112]

Call me crazy, but if you have boost, and you are going to be running methanol, why the hell are you interested in reducing the ability of your engine to absorb stresses by reducing the amount of metal in there?

 

Gaining 200 odd cc of displacement is equivalent to adding exactly `sod all' boost.

 

Assuming you aren't going to bore it much but instead are going to stroke it. This increases the rod-angle meaning greater wear, more losses, less hp for the same rpm, and less rpm available. What is good about it? If you are going to make 500rwhp you will want a big turbo which will come on late. Low rpm means small powerband (not an issue with an auto I suppose)

 

LD28 stroker engines (without the LD28 block) are a complete waste of time if you have boost IMHO. What you could do is get pistons with a smaller pin height and longer rods (reduces rod angle and a few other things I can't remember).

 

I completely agree with Simon (zbuild), don't bugger around with crap EMS, Motec are the best, and you get what you pay for. Even autronic (which I run at the moment) are a very poor second compatatively.

 

Dave

[Guest ON3GO]

well ive seen with my own eyes Z cars with haltechs, microtechs and even MS&S put down awesome numbers, and are very easy to tune and use.

Motec is great, prob is the best but i dont see the gain in spending that much for a standalone system when i get pretty much the same thing for way less.

Ill be running a Microtech LTX12 system..

 

so we have ppl say do a 2.9 or 3.0 and ppl say just leave it 2.8..

 

hmm..

 

i wouldnt mind running meth.. i just dont know much about it..

i do know running pump gas and or race gas with alky.. and i know i can do that with the setup i want without a intercooler and etc.

im sure i can do that with a meth fuel system.

 

time to research that.

 

but this project is gonna be fun!

 

mike

[rags]

Mike,

 

They were forged pistons. I believe we had 8 people in on the group. My memory isn't as good as it once was but I think the price was around $400 for pistons, rings and pins.

 

Joe

[510six]

My only concern with using a early IRS Maxima would be the trailing arm rear suspension.The rear tires tend to toe out and scrub speed off during a drag launch.My 510 has an almost identical rear suspension and it can be helped by sloting the rear crossmember bolts( among other little tricks).On the street my 510 with a 120rwh shot of N20 and Hoosier dirt track tires hooked very well.With 500+ rwh it didn`t hook nearly as well.I have always thought that the ultimate "sleeper" Datsun would be an early 810 wagon with a live rear axel, mabey a Ford 8.8 with LSD and traction bars .People would laugh until a serious hurt was put on them.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

 

http://www.aempower.com Check all the options avalable in the Universal system.

[AK-Z]

I was thinking of stroking my motor but I didn't want to deal with the hastle of getting the engine bored out. Does any one know what the displacement of a stroked motor with stock sized pistons are? What is the size of the l28 pistons?

 

You don't want to polish the cylinder walls on a rebuild. What you do is "hone the cylinders. the honer looks like a 3 finger robot hand, but pushes outwards with grinding material on the outside of the fingers. Kinda hard to descibe. I saw that they had one at Sears Don't know if I would get it though. Another tip is to use automatic trans fluid to "clean" the cylinders after. Just use a thin coat on and give it a couple of hours and wipe. You will be suprised at how much crap you find.

[Bernardd]

meth kit links:

http://www.devilsownonline.com - best bargain out there

http://www.alkycontrol.com - best support out there

 

there's also the smc website and the snow performance kit.

check out http://www.aquamist.co.uk for a forum with a lot of info on how it works, sizing nozzles, technical info, different methods of injecting (precompressor, post compressor, intake).

[thehelix112]

AK-Z,

 

Try this little program I wrote:

 

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

 

Lets you play with different configurations and what not.

 

You could use the stroker crank with L28 rods and Z20S +1mm oversize pistons. As there are no shorter rods than the L28 ones you have to reduce pin height on the pistons to fit it in the block. Gives you 2893cc, 9.68:1 static compression.

 

Dave

[(goldfish)]

I remember jeffp saying he was advised to stay at 3.0l. that boring it larger might allow the cylnder walls to flex under the boost he wanted to run.

[240hoke]

I have a buddy who went out to 3.2L. Block cracked within a few miles of running the thing. turns out there was a casting defect in that particular block. Which i would assume is rather common. He bought a brand new nissan block and checked it before boring back to 3.2 so far as i know its fine now. 3.0 i thin is the safest option...

 

-Austin

[AK-Z]

Thanks helix. I don't think the f54 blocks would have as much casting defects then the earlier versions but that just my opinion. That is why I don't want to bore the cylinders since I want to do a stroke on my n42 block. I would get a f54 block but I live in alaska and can't find "just the block" I know where I can get a 280zx non turbo though. I don't want to get another car just to canibalize it, I already have 2 cars torn apart in my yard. Its starting to look like red-neck country, lol. (not to affend anybody)

[mrcheeze36]

See this thread from Zcar.com:

 

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=573917&t=573912#reply_573917

 

The member 1 fast Z has sonic tested both blocks and the N42 is more rigid and thicker. I have asked JeffP and he recommended the N42 block as well for a stroker turbo L-motor.

[thehelix112]

Interesting. I always thought (according to several books which I can't remember right now) that the F54 blocks, with siamesed cylinder walls between 1-2, 3-4 and 5-6 were more rigid. They are the blocks that were used in the 600hp SCCA 280ZX cars.

 

Dave