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Breaking in a new motor


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I know howto break in an N/A motor, but is there a diffrence in N/A vs. Turbo?

 

I was thinking-i plan on picking up an L28 from the local junkyard, and completly rebuilding it, i thought about putting a turbo on there, cuz i have a few of the parts already-would it b possible to run the motor and break it in like an N/A, and just make it so the turbo would not boost? How would i do this? Could i set the wastegate so that it doesn't boost at all-and then change it when the engine is broken in-i want this engine to last as long as possible. BTW, it will b stock turbo and everything, nuthing aftermarket, cept like a head gasket,rings, and gaskets, everything else stock.

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The only time that you would really need to let the motor idle down is after being on the highway for awhile or after getting on it. Biggest thing is to run quality oil and change it on a regular basis. There is no reason for a turbo car to have the oil coked up in it. The only real reason that happens it due to an owner not maintaing the vehicle properly. I personally believe that all the hype around turbo timers is just to sell another product. Others may disagree but, this is my experinced opinion.

 

As far as the break in period there is no need or advantage to leaving the wastegate open during break in. Your not supposed to getting on it during break in. Right! :-D

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someone posted an article on here where a mechnic said that on all his rebuilt motors he dogs them the first 500 miles, runs them very very hard, maybe someone will remember the thread

I have been told basicly the same thing, and I'm doing it on my rebuilt 280z.

 

I did a 5 speed swap from an auto, so I can hit ~40 mph in first, which really means I need to fix the brakes and the steering before continuing with the break in.

 

Mario

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Personally I feel like you can break the engine in any way you want to but, it's all about how long you want the motor to last! Seems to me like slow breakin would help to seat things altittle better until you know for sure everything is together right.

 

I'll tell you want my dad does with his new boats that he gets every year. He goes out and runs the crap out of them until he is comfortable it's not going to loosen up anymore. He tells me that he thinks they run alittle better like that. He has no way of knowing for sure if it really helps any but, he does have lots of experience with boats ets.. So I tend to believe him about this atleast.

 

 

 

If you want to gets som good info about all this then I would look up some post by Grumpyvette and see what he has to say about the subject. This guy has tons of info about motors and such.

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"Back in the day" when engine break-ins were necessary unlike the new engines the recommended procedure was to take it really easy (no hot rodding) the first 500 miles, run it a little harder up to 1,000 miles, change the oil and then go for it. During the first 1,000 miles part of the procedure was to drive the engine in the RPM range you intended to drive it most of the time. I remember a 40-60-50-70-40-60-50-70.... routine I did on a 300 mile trip when I first got my '70 Cuda to properly break-in the 340. An interesting factoid after that was that I got 19-20 MPG on the highway at speeds up to 70 mph, after that it dropped to 17.5 and went down 1 mpg for each 10 mph increase in speed. The sudden drop was probably more because of the secondaries squeaking open than the break-in cycle but it was an interesting coincidence.

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