t56 questions

[HarrisonTX]

I sure hate to ask, because im sure the answers are in the forum somewhere.

I have searched, and answered some questions, but not all...

As many here know i plan on using a 327, with a t56

 

I searched, and found that some guys used this "weir products" adapter

To mate a t56 to an old school block

I went to tim240z's site, and looked at his pictures..

Hes using an lt1/t56, heres a pic..

 

gfgf

Now, heres an old 327, It looks to me like the bolt pattern is the same...

 

Is it only ls1 t56's that you need the adapter? or, can i just not see the difference.

 

Next question is shiter placement.

I kept gettin all different kinds of answeres in the search

Where exactly will the shifter pop up at?

Will i need to modify the console any? Do you use the shifter closest to the tailshaft? or the next one up?

Switchin shifters shouldnt change the location should it?

 

Now the cross member

The JTR book dosnt talk much about the t56, and shows a crossmember thats just like 3/8 steel and uses 4 bolts, and some spacers.

Anyone use that method? why not? Do i need to make holes for that? Who uses the JTR crossmember? why, or why not.

Thanks guys, and i did do a search... there was so many results i looked at most of them.

 

Im trying to build an archive that i can use when it comes time to do this.. so if anyone has some links to answer my questions.. please post them.

Thanks cats

[HarrisonTX]

I searched google, and found this

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/48446/

Wow, thats a smart bellhousing..

 

Now, did yall use the z master cylinder?

What did yall do with the hydraulic lines.. they didnt just screw right in did they?

[zeeboost]

As my t56 is in a zx, I can't help you out too much, but I can answer a couple of questions.

 

-The transmission will bolt up to your engine, but if you have the older style engine (pre-'86 I think) then you will need to use a different (expensive) flywheel. I have a Centerforce SFI that weighs at least a good 30 lbs. Now, since my setup is already complete, I really haven't been keeping an eye on the market to see if anything else has come out to mate a t56 to an older style sbc, but I seem to recall hearing about a bellhousing that you can use to mate the two together.

 

I'm using a Tilton 7/8" clutch master cylinder and a SS line running down to a T-5 slave cylinder. You will either need to drill and tap the back of the slave cylinder in order to run your line, or you can see if Ross C. is selling the adapter for it again. I talked to him a year or two ago about it, and he told me he wasn't going to be making any for a while, so you may be out of luck with that. I found the correct info to drill in tap the slave on this site, so all I can tell you is search some more

 

Good luck

[fastzcars]

well the stock datsun master is a 10 milimeter brake fitting , and the weir products hydrolic throwout bearing fitting's are 3/16 inch. I would get 2 adapters fron Earl's, one metric, one american standard to dash 3 or 4 and get a corresponding length of Earl's brake prefab stainless/flex brake line. My Mcleod H/T already had a -4 male fitting's and all I needed was a 24 inch -4 brakeline and a -4 to standerd adapter since I bought a wilwood 5/8 inch master.

[mjm]

I went with the weir bellhousing mated to my ramjet 350 which allowed the use of the much less expensive standard type clutch - the fella at weir will sell you a tilton master cylinder which works perfect with their internal slave cylinder - I think it was a 1" bore - due to it being slightly longer than original Z master, wwasher reservior needed to be relocated - I took off the fittings from the master and slave and had NAPA fabricate a hydraulic hose that was completely hose except for the fittings at the ends - straight fitting at slave end and 90 degree fitting at master end - inexpensive and performs great - you will be happy with the weir setup

[buZy]

I have the Weir kit with a 1969 327 and 1997 camaro T-56. The kit does use a custom sand cast alum bellhousing as an adapter so to speak. The T-56 is then installed with no modifications. As far as shifter locations I have no idea. My car is an old scarab. If anything it was moved to the rear of the car a bit. I bet it would not line up. Crossmember you will probably end up building your own.... By the time you plot the driveline angles depending on your rear end mounting, motor mounts and car variations etc.

Wier kit with 1" master cylinder $659.00

The clutch used is a Zoom diaphram type purchased from Summit Racing part number - ZZZ-30005S $199.99

Aluminum standard SBC RAM flywheel part number- RAM-2501. $359.69

You could just use an old standard flywheel too.

Pilot bushing non roller type...from NAPA part number-Balkamp 651-1029. $15

Wier told me a smaller bore stock m/c won't move enough fluid. Everything works really good and the quality is worth the cost.

[HarrisonTX]

$659 Wow, that is absolutly insane... i cant belive its that expensive

Man... thats like half of a monthes pay (soldiers are underpaid) for a bellhousing...

damn it

[deMideon]

Heh... I have a 400 with a T-56 and Weir belhousing.. It's not that expensive when you see how much the pull type clutches, flywheels etc.. cost. Also the stock setup has the clutch slave in the way of where the exhaust goes, the slave is not easily bleedable etc.... Everything with the Weir just bolted up and worked. I was very impressed and I love the hydraulic throwout bearing!!!

[HarrisonTX]

if its that easy, you maybe just convinced me..

 

So, an ls1 t56, i cant use right? arnt the input shafts too long?

So an lt1 i can use, is there another find?

[Mike kZ]

With the Weir kit you can use an LT1 or LS1 T56.

http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/

[HarrisonTX]

I called the guy, cause i had to ask..

its a different kit for the LS1, $660

lt1 $620

[BrandonsZ]

I have an old school 350 (gen I) pre '86 and there is a transfer plate between the stock T56 LS1 close ratio transmission and the lakewood ($335) standard bellhousing. There is also a custom pilot bearing that moved the pilot bearing further rearward by the depth of the transfer plate to ensure mating to the trans shaft.

 

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4134&cat=500&page=1

 

5speedtransmissions.com is where I got my adapter plate and bearing ($350 and $300) not cheap, but worked really well.

 

The ls1 tranny will place the stick about 3" further back, but in my case it ended up putting the knob in the exact position as stock because the stock shifter was bent back about 3 ". the new shifter is straight up, and I made a shift stick from a 3" bolt and a 1/4" plate to mate to the T56 shifter link which is about as simple as I have ever seen. This was with the JTR position, but I actually have about 1" between the firewall and the distributor.

 

This is of course where the shifter ends up if you have a stock ls1 tranny, the aftermarket one and some F-body ones have a shifter that is several inches closer to the front (different tailhousing) which would have simplified my install, but they do NOT have the close ratio gears which I am really appreciating, especially the low grumble of 1500rpm on the freeway with the .50:1 6th. I used the stock shift boot, shift knob, console, and boot plate, but had to turn the boot and plate 180 degrees and move them about 2" rearward. I also had to cut .5" of sheetmetal rearward and move the console .75" rearward (as far as it would go). It looks like stock though.

 

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4135&cat=500&page=1

 

The crossmemeber from Stealth conversions worked perfectly, although I have about 1" of spacers between it and the stock transmission mount, I of course had to drill two holes instead of the one it had.

 

It even afforded enough room (barely) for the 2.5" exhaust coming through both sides.

 

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4136&cat=500&page=1

 

If you have any further questions let me know, I probably have all the answers for the T56 + 1st gen SBC in a 240z. Not that they are good answers necessarily.

[HarrisonTX]

Wow, that shifter does look stock. Did you even use the stock z shift knob? wow man.

Also im glad i saw that exhasut photo, because i woulda put my crossmember in totally upside down. So you have dual exhaust that turns into single? What kinda muffler is that? how does it sound?

Im lookin for a sound like a vette or something, maybe borla?

[BrandonsZ]

That is the stock knob, I like it, but I wish they had an "L" shaped knob with a button for reverse lockout. I had to use a M12x1.5 bolt (which is hard to find considering they usually come M12x1.75) and take out the little adapter thread fromt he inside of the stock knob.

 

I would have put it in upside down if I could, it wouldn't fit in the tunnel without major mods and interference withthe seats in this position.

 

I actually have two mufflers, that small one in the photo is a 12" x 3.5 dia resonator, the main muffler is a super 40 delta from Flowmaster, it's the shortest muffler with 3" in and 3" out. FLO-953047 from summit. It just barely fit in the stock muffler location turned 45 degrees and tucked up in the fender. I can show you more pics, PM me.

 

It sounds freekin' awsome and I'd keep it like this, but my wife and friends say it's too loud,a nd they can hear me comming from a mile away, that'll draw too much attention, but inside it sounds perfect. So I'm going to put two more resonators on the 2.5" sections of pipe closer to the engine. Flowmaster does deliver what they promise a low soothing tone.

[HarrisonTX]

I would like to see that exhasut, i will pm you

I have dual 2 1/4 40 series flow masters on my 69 pickup. Its kinda loud at idle, but from 30mph on up, i can have the windows down, and talk normally with someone beside me, i wonder why yours is so loud... maybe its cause i have 2?

Whats a resonator? i dont wanna be choking down my exhaust

I see you used lakewood bellhousing. I plan on spinnin this little chevy too the moon, and have heard bad storied of flywheels comin apart, and cuttin off feet.

Did you have to use the the veryexpensive pull style clutchs? the weir kit lets you use any style, thats why i think i may opt for them...

What did you spend on flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, everything between the tranny and motor, if you dont mind me askin

[BrandonsZ]

I would like to see that exhasut' date=' i will pm you

I have dual 2 1/4 40 series flow masters on my 69 pickup. Its kinda loud at idle, but from 30mph on up, i can have the windows down, and talk normally with someone beside me, i wonder why yours is so loud... maybe its cause i have 2?

Whats a resonator? i dont wanna be choking down my exhaust

I see you used lakewood bellhousing. I plan on spinnin this little chevy too the moon, and have heard bad storied of flywheels comin apart, and cuttin off feet.

Did you have to use the the veryexpensive pull style clutchs? the weir kit lets you use any style, thats why i think i may opt for them...

What did you spend on flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, everything between the tranny and motor, if you dont mind me askin[/quote']

 

By a resonator I mean a glasspack.

 

I felt the same way about my feet, I like them, although the horror stories are probably urban legend.

 

I don't have a pull style clutch, it was a high performance version made for a Camaro. It's a "Centerforce".

 

I spent the cost of the transmission on the bellhousing, plates, clutch, slave, throwout, pilot, speedo adapter, and about 3 grinding discs to remove about 3/4" from the bottom of the bellhousing lip. I don't necessarily want to quote pricing because they treated me very well at 5speedtransmissions.com (Ray) and his deal with me may vary for you.

[dead2me]

not an urban legend here... lost a flywheel and clutch and it came through the floor on a first gen camaro. It sheared the rod in two that the accelerator pedal connects to about 1 inch above the pedal itself while my foot had it on the floor.. those rods are about 3/8 in diameter, nothing plastic there... ripped holes in the firewall that cats could, and did, jump through... spread the headers out against the frame on both sides and pushed the steering shaft over into the driver's side frame rail. Another large piece came through the heater box and turned it into scrap metal ripping right through the heater core. When I opened the hood, there was absolutely nothing between the back of the block and the front of the doug nash 5 speed, it had even sheared the input shaft and bearing retainer clean off, and it had also sheared off every bolt that held the flywheel to the crank as well as breaking off the back of the block where each of the top two bellhousing bolts went into it. Suffice it to say, I will never use a factory bellhousing again unless I am just commuting in the car... Very expensive lesson. The worst part was that I had my scattershield out assembling everything with a new engine combo, so the accident didn't really have to happen. Lakewood makes good bellhousings, but they don't make good replacement legs and feet... I feel pretty fortunate to still have my right foot. The piece that took out the acc. pedal rod went straight up cutting a hole in the firewall until it hit the master cylinder, and it left some impressive toothmarks in that from the teeth on the ring gear. You should have seen the pavement under the car where it went off.. .Nice chunk blown out that you can still see 13 years later... dont become known as stumpy, spend the money on a good bellhousing.

[jakeshoe]

You can install a LT1 T56 to an old style engine using the stock bellhousing, an old style clutch and flywheel setup, and a hydraulic throwout bearing.

 

I've done it behind a 454.

 

The best deal now is to use the Mcleod Scattershield setup though... and probably an LS1 trans.

[BrandonsZ]

the onlt difference would be the number of teeth on the flywheel and the bolt pattern on the flywheel, but there are ways around that too.