240hoke Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 Hey guys, I was putting my rear end together today and ive gotten stumped on the halfshafts. Ive got two problems: This is a 1971 240z with a r200 swap (diffy bar, front and rear cross member, yada yada) its is a clutch pack LSD. I am using the halfshafts i used in my 260 with a open r200 lsd and they worked great. they are r180 halfshafts with r200 yokes. 1.) The drivers side with the longer input shaft clicks in the differential fine but the halfshaft must be compressed FULLY to be attached to the stub axle, it is so tight it bothers me..... these worked perfect in my 260, i dont get it. 2.) The passenger side length is perfect, but the circlip will not hold the halfshaft in, i can push it in and it will stay there but any slight tug will pull it right out. Im mainly worried about the drivers side being so compressed. Please help me out. -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A. G. Olphart Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 I took the stubs out of my R200 last week (to put on a set of 280 cv style half shafts); the passenger side had the longer splined shaft, and the driver's side was the shorter one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted October 9, 2005 Author Share Posted October 9, 2005 okay did some more searching, found conflicting information, ill go out and swap them around. This is what i get for being lazy. -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/index.html I always thought that the halfshafts varied in length. After reading that article I measured a bunch of them and they were all the same. I did go through the hassle of figuring out how to shorten them. I was about to do that then I just decided screw it I'm going with CV's. I figured after all that hassle I might as well go to the smoother CV joint since I'm running so much neg camber. I think after I had it all figured out I found a post from 2126 (I think) and he had successfully done what I was planning to do to shorten the shaft. Basically you have to disassemble it, cut about 1" off of the inner part of the shaft, then I was going to tack weld the end of the shaft back on, I think 2126 actually had it machined to accept the original snap ring, and reassemble. I've got a picture of a disassembled shaft which might help you, but I can't upload pics for some odd reason. I found your email address on your website and emailed the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted October 9, 2005 Author Share Posted October 9, 2005 Thanks for the information, i got yer email. I think i am actually going to go CV's as soon as I get the money. These will have to work for now though. I switched sides and they went in fine, however one side is still alot more compressed then the other. With the drivers side almost all the way compressed. I think it will work fine for now, i couldnt find any place where it compressed it all the way. Ill stay away from shortening those things looks like a pain -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Austin, there are two clip in stubs with two lengths for the R200, one short and one long. Just make sure they're on the right side. They should only be able to clip in if its in the propper side. If you switch them they wont clip in properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/index.html I always thought that the halfshafts varied in length. After reading that article I measured a bunch of them and they were all the same. I did go through the hassle of figuring out how to shorten them. I was about to do that then I just decided screw it I'm going with CV's. I figured after all that hassle I might as well go to the smoother CV joint since I'm running so much neg camber. I think after I had it all figured out I found a post from 2126 (I think) and he had successfully done what I was planning to do to shorten the shaft. Basically you have to disassemble it' date=' cut about 1" off of the inner part of the shaft, then I was going to tack weld the end of the shaft back on, I think 2126 actually had it machined to accept the original snap ring, and reassemble. I've got a picture of a disassembled shaft which might help you, but I can't upload pics for some odd reason. I found your email address on your website and emailed the pic.[/quote'] It may have been my post however, the drive axles I modified were the drive axles that were originally with the R200 I removed from a 82 - 83 280ZX. If I remember correctly, it wasn't an entire 1". I'd have to go back to my original notes and drawings. One thing to consider, when the cars suspension is at complete rebound (fully extended strut) when installing the drive axles.....and that is, when you lower the car back down to the ground the drive axle will compress even more! So be sure to take drive axle modified length measurements when the the suspension is compressed to the point that the drive axle is 90 degrees to the differential. This will be the point of maximum compression of the drive axle. Also allow additional clearance to that measurement for installation and to insure the drive axle does not bind at full compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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