GLSHLE Posted October 22, 2005 Share Posted October 22, 2005 I am putting my 383 back together and getting it rebalanced. Any ideas on a bombproof flexplate for the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted October 22, 2005 Administrators Share Posted October 22, 2005 Do you have a tendancy to explode them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 I think what your asking for is a SFI certified flexplate, there are several manufacturers of those, but none for a bombproof flexplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLSHLE Posted October 23, 2005 Author Share Posted October 23, 2005 This is my first post so I will give a little history.I am 50 with a long time in a Zcar. Last year I bought a 74 260 with a 305 and 350TH, It was great fun till I spun a bearing wishing I had another gear. I bought a "good deal" 383 built new 2 years ago from a late model (87-94) block,Edelbrock performer heads and 600carb for $500. $1500 Later, A lesson in the difference in a 80 305 and a 87 383stroker,and an almost all new top end. I am ready to send the block out to get checked and balanced. I need a good balancer and a bombproof flexplate. I do not want to do it again.Any suggestions would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 You need to get a good balancer, I like fluidampr, some people don't. There are several good SFI flexplates for the 400SBC and you'll need one of those in the 168 tooth version most likely. They made a 153 tooth version but it takes a different starter. Sounds like a nice combination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLSHLE Posted October 23, 2005 Author Share Posted October 23, 2005 IT was on the motor and had several cracks out of the bolt holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLSHLE Posted October 23, 2005 Author Share Posted October 23, 2005 You think I could use a 153 tooth think the starter off the 305 would fit,but Ido not know if it is heavy duty enough?If not would a gear reduction still fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 The 153 tooth flywheel has some fitment issues with some converters and I don't know of any that are balanced for the 400sbc. If you had a 153 and took it to your machine shop they could make it work by adding a weight to the flywheel to get it right. I've done that before for circle track motors with low ground clearance issues. I don't know why you would want to do that when the regular flexplate can be had for around $70. You'd have to be running alot of compression to need a gear reduction starter, and yes most will fit either flywheel depending on mounting holes used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 I've seen that before, although I've never experienced that problem. Get an SFI flexplate and you should be set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 I merged the two posts as they were basically the same..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLSHLE Posted October 23, 2005 Author Share Posted October 23, 2005 First Thanks to Tim for helping me with my computer illiteracy. my machine shop wants a damper and flexplate to rebalance the asembly so I have to buy something.I was just hoping to not have to buy a new one. the one off the 305 is new.I do not know if it would cost more without a externally balance one to start with. I have another guestion Ihope someone could help me with or do I need to repost? It is the newbe thing. Anyway I have a Mallory Unilite Dist. out of the 305 will it fit the late style one piece? Still have questions about cam and roller rockers. Also it is about 9.5 to 1 comp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 Yea, what Doc H. Said... TCI and others make SFI rated units. Make sure to match it all up. If you're doing internal balance, get both the internal flex plate and the harmonic dampener. I use the TCI Rattler. If it is an external balance job, then make sure the flex plate and balancer are. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 If it's a 9.5 to one motor, then you could certainly use a stock starter without concern. Just my advice, but don't use used parts on a new install, get a rebuilt starter, fuel pump, water pump, hoses, belts, wires, cap, rotor, etc, unless your using something you know is relatively new or new HP parts. When I do engines in street cars they get everything listed plus pressure check and flow rad, new TC seal in trans, rebuilt carb, new or rebuilt alternator, new fuel lines (rubber) and complete tune. I'd bet that 383 is a cast 400 crank not an aftermarket steel crank. If it is it'll be expensive to go internal balance, cause last time I checked, mallory metal was about $100/inch installed. I've never used the TCI rattler, but what Mike is telling you is get ready to spend some $$, Probably $350-$400. Of course if you'd known then what you should know now it'd been cheaper in the first place. Since you have a computer, get on EBAY, you can find things alot cheaper if you pay attention. Don't pay more than you can buy it eleswhere in stores and if you need it in a hurry, use items that have a "buy it now" price if it suits you. Distributor should fit fine. Post your other questions on cam and rockers, somebody will get them answered for you, that's what everybody tries to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLSHLE Posted October 23, 2005 Author Share Posted October 23, 2005 Thanks to everyone for the advice, I now have a plan for the crank. About the water and oil pump. I think I should go with a high flow water pump, but I watched them build a 383 on Horsepower T.V. and they not to use a HD oil pump,It could drain the pan. What are your thoughts on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 Well, it depends on several factors, Grumpyvette may have some additional tidbits of info. One factor being the HP of the engine, if it's mild, say 350 or less with a hydraulic cam, then you probably don't need one. Instead, put the high pressure spring in the pump and that'll get the pressure up to about 55-60 and things will work ok. If your running more HP and solid or roller cam, then you'll need more oil, bigger pan, etc. If your road racing you may want to limit the oil to the top end if your running roller valve train. Two schools of thought here, oil cools the springs, but too much fills the valve covers cause it doesn't drain back fast enough and you start starving for oil, also pumping alot of oil builds heat in the oil and aerates it, which is not good. Circle track pans are usually 7 quart jobs at the min. Dry sump systems usually hold alot more but mainly due to aeration and length of the race. The stock chevy rockers have the oil hole offset from center so that it only oils the rocker at lift. Aftermarket rockers have the oil hole in the center so it oils all the time unless your running alot of lift and the lifter gets out of the oil groove machined in the lifter. This puts more oil in the top end all of the time so you have to account for that as well as watching total oil volume and pressure. Bearing clearance is another factor. Every additional .001 clearance roughly doubles the volume of oil that will pass through the bearing at a given pressure as long as the pressure remains constant. So, if you run .002 or more on the mains and rods IMO you should be looking at HV oil pump and bigger pan. Get a good pan like canton, B&B, moroso it's worth it. There is really no need to run more than .002 clearance IMO unless your building qualifying motors. I like .00125 to .0015 for street use and .002 to .00225 for HP or race on SBC's. If your machine shop is quality then they can check the mains and rods torqued with bearings you'll use and grind the crank to get you spot on. You still have to check clearances though and that doesn't mean plastigauge. Usually runs about $115 at my machine shop vs. $65 for the regular HP grind. On a stock crank, don't worry about fillets, unless you grind .020 off of the journals you can't really influence the fillets that much. Don't use a welded up cast crank ever! There ends up being little pits in the surface that have sharp edges and they will microsurface crack and you'll loose the bearing and journal. And for what it's worth, melling makes a 5 bolt pump for a sbc that number is M55HVS, this baby pumps all the oil you'd ever want or need, just make sure you have a 7 quart pan or larger and limit the oil to the top end. You can get 100psi out of that pump if you really feel you need it. I have run it on several circle track motors that used .003 bearing clearance and I have one in my welding truck that has a completely worn out engine and it only makes 50psi cause it's soooooo worn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psykovertible Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 there is one in Jegs that is called "the wheel" that is touted. it is heavy so there is no much RPM drop between gears. heavy slows the rev-up but keeps revs for shifting by maintaining momentum. think i have that right....i'm sure i will be bashed shortly if not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLSHLE Posted October 23, 2005 Author Share Posted October 23, 2005 Thanks I will check it out and I will check out that site GLSHLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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