Guest 73LT1Z Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 As mentioned above, I've found AC parts suppliers to be as responsive as housing contractors (I'm bidding a new house & garage) . With this in mind, I self-taught myself all about AC fitings, and think I have found a workable mix of parts to adapt to my factory AC '75 280. While I was at it, I fabbed up some brackets for the F-body AC compressor. Pics to follow. I put the hood on & it was tight, so I was able to lower the comp just a little. Everything about this project is a clearance issue! By the time I'm done, I'll have to widen the garage door to get it out . EDIT- Pics: EDIT #2 The 105" belt is right on the money, but the belt won't clear the water pump on the driver (Vette bracket) side as-is. I'll have to lower the PS pump by about 1/4" or so. There's that clearance issue again- big surprise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 In lieu of spending more $, I put the Vette belt tensioner in place & it looks like it will clear the pump just fine: I need to get a shorter belt- 103.5" or so. I could actually go shorter since I will have two tensioners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwik240z Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 I ordered my V.A. evaporator and control panel today. The guys at V.A. are really helpful. I bought it directly from them. After Mike Kelly took lots of measurements for me, (thanks Mike) I decided to go with the GenII Mini unit with heat/cool/defrost. The guys at VA say it should cool the 240Z just fine. V.A. has a new control panel that looks really cool. I think it will fit nicely into the the stock heater control area of my 240Z. I am going to make a plate to cover the existing opening and then mount this one to the plate. I am going to try to document the install but I won't be starting on it for a while. Thanks to everyone for their help and input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 I bought a Gates K061037 and it is a perfect fit for my setup. My AC hoses arrived & I have attached them, still waiting for the compressor hose adapter, drier, and condenser. I had to modify the -8 90 degree adapter to the firewall fitting I bought so the -8 hose end would fit into it. I'm hopeful it will all hold vacuum when I get it hooked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 The rest of the stuff finally arrived yesterday. The drier had no pressure port for the trinary switch, so I have to get another one... I'll need to get the hose from the comp to the firewall shortened, and will take my 90 degree fitting with me as I can see now the end is not the same as other o-ring fittings (it was listed as an o-ring to flare adapter). Hopefully, an AC shop has or can make what I need. Evrything else seems like it will fit OK. Pics to follow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 So how much will you guys have in your vintage air units from start to finish? Im really thinking about putting a setup in my 240 after I get it running. It gets a lil warm here in Texas during the summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 So how much will you guys have in your vintage air units from start to finish? Im really thinking about putting a setup in my 240 after I get it running. It gets a lil warm here in Texas during the summer My system is almost complete, and here are my approximate costs:Bower's low hood bracket kit (includes bracket, delete pulley, belt, and hardware): $289 plus shipping Used LT1 compressor $50 Vintage Air GEN-II mini, condensor, dryer, lines, etc.; approximately $1000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 It's been awhile since I did the install, but I seem to recall that I spent $1200. Bartman how's your install going? My ofter still stands on charging up your system once you get it goin . O.K?:mrgreen:Oh I forgot the March Bracket. add $350 so total $1550. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 Bartman how's your install going? My ofter still stands on charging up your system once you get it goin . O.K?.I received all my fittings and lines yesterday, so I'm going to figure out the proper lengths and then take them in to have the fittings crimped on properly. The only big thing I have left is to wire everything up and reinstall my dash. I appreciate your charging offer and I'll let you know as I get closer. A buddy of mine that owns a car shop has offered to charge it up for me as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 So how much will you guys have in your vintage air units from start to finish? It's hard to figure an exact total, since I already had the compressor and Corvette bracket, fabricated the mount, & I'm using the factory AC setup inside the car. Roughly (with approximate shipping) : Dash vent air hoses (JC Whitney) $35 Condenser, drier, compressor adapter (Streetrod garage) $200 Hoses (Ray Everitt) $105 HC12a refrigerant (hc12ausa.com) $50 Firewall fitting (Surplus center) $15 Belt (Rock Auto) $25 Trinary switch (Old Air Products) $40 Used PS pump for idler (Camaroz28.com) $40 (labor to gut it: 0) AC bypass pulley (GM partsdirect) $50 Corvette idler/tensioner (Rock Auto) $80 Total: $640 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Condenser installed: Drier w/ trinary switch installed: Rear of compressor: Despite a lack of time to work on this project, it is really starting to look/feel like a car again. All three pedals are connected & functional! I bled the brakes this week, so all 4 wheels are on. As soon as I can check the oil in the compressor, I'll do a vacuum test on the AC system prior to adding the HC12a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 It feels great that your almost at the end:mrgreen: Lookin good 73LT1Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 17, 2006 Author Share Posted March 17, 2006 I'm just about the same place with my AC install as you are with yours. It took a couple of times to get the lines and fittings pieces correct, but most of them are installed now. I just need to take them in and get the fittings crimped on to the lines. Two differences I can see between our setups and one of them concerns me. 1. I installed my condensor with the fittings on the passengers side (I don't think this makes much difference) 2. I think I installed my lines the opposite of how you installed yours on the compressor. Are you using the stock LT1 compressor and if so are the suction and discharge lines interchangeable? I think I have mine the same way it was hooked up with the stock lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 17, 2006 Author Share Posted March 17, 2006 Here's a couple of pic's I found on the net that I used to help determine the proper way to hook my lines up to the compressor. http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/pics/AClines.jpg http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/pics/ACrtg.jpg I'm assuming the larger line that comes straight off the back of the block is the suction and the smaller one that exits the side of the block is the discharge. Actually, I would prefer to hook mine up like yours (routing would be easier). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Bart- I went by the '95 F-body service manual (pic is available at shbox.com, well worth the $ I donated for the information there) as far as the line hookups at the compressor. It shows the port on the left (as you are viewing the REAR of the compressor) going to the firewall & evap core. It shows the one on the right going to the condenser. When I first hooked it up, I did this backwards. Pic courtesy of Shoebox: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 17, 2006 Author Share Posted March 17, 2006 Bart-I went by the '95 F-body service manual (pic is available at shbox.com' date=' well worth the $ I donated for the information there) as far as the line hookups at the compressor. It shows the port on the left (as you are viewing the REAR of the compressor) going to the firewall & evap core. It shows the one on the right going to the condenser. When I first hooked it up, I did this backwards[/quote']Yes, but is this with the flanges for the line connections on the top or the bottom of the compressor. I think the one on the left (viewing from the rear) goes to the evaporator and the one on the right goes to the compressor; but with the openings on the back of the compressor on the top. I think you have your compressor turned 180 degrees from how it was installed in the stock location (openings on the bottom). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Good point- I didn't take this into account & you are correct. The compressor is also marked "S" and "D" on the rear. I noticed this as I was adding oil to the compressor and then noticed my hose adapter would not fit since one of the openings on the compressor is lower than the other: I bought the wrong (inline) one, pictured on the left. Time for AC parts battle #3! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 17, 2006 Author Share Posted March 17, 2006 Good point- I didn't take this into account & you are correct. The compressor is also marked "S" and "D" on the rear. I noticed this as I was adding oil to the compressor and then noticed my hose adapter would not fit since one of the openings on the compressor is lower than the other: I bought the wrong (inline) one' date=' pictured on the left. Time for AC parts battle #3![/quote']My adaper block looks like the same one you purchased. You can get different thickness seal washers that will allow you to use the one you already have. Here's a thread that I started a couple of weeks ago about the compressor (with pic's). http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108725 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Thanks for the info Bart, but I already ordered the offset block. EDIT Out of stock! Looks like I can try the offset seal kit from your other thread and save a few $. Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Got the seal kit from Doc's & all was well until I realized my firewall fitting was not sealing. My plan B for this is to run a #8 90 degree male flare from the fitting up to a #8 to #10 reducer, and then connect my existing #10 hose to the reducer. I'm now also wondering about running the comp upside down- there may be an oiling issue, as when I put it on, I added 6 oz of PAG oil as per the shop manual. Since the ports are now on the bottom, some of the oil ran out before I could get the hoses on. It never ends... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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