BrandonsZ Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 $35 in hoses from napa Everything but #5 it's 3/4" and Napa looked at me blankly when I asked for a 3/4 Fuel hose. I tried a heater hose but you could still smell the gas through it I can't explain why, so I went to McMaster-Carr and got the 3/4" it's 100R4 and the smell is gone. Of course I did manager to spill gas on my interior carpet so that'll stick around for a while. But I spent maybe $40 at Napa if that. At first I bought Braided hoses but they were too big to pass through the tubes in the back so I'm stuck with those, they cost $65 for everything but could only use 2 of 6 of them so just go with fuel rated hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Definitely go with the fuel rated hoses. I think I spent $42 including the 3 Ts I used to fab the manifold, and the band clamps. Jon, does that seem right to you? We had to go to Ace hardware to get the metal T adapters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 I like the Idea of keeping the stock expansion tank if I can get the lines repaired. For now I've priced out some SS braid from Summitracing @ around $125. Much cheaper than MSA's $250. And it will probably last longer. Still not sure what I'm going to do. I can't even fill the tank because the fuel would spill out of the Vent lines. It's one of the most easy things to do on your Z, dropping the fuel tank. After that, the hardest thing to do is to get the right size hoses, at the right lengths. Jon and I did our swap in about 3 1/2 hours total working time, including the time it took to clean the tank out with MEK and to drain and dry the tank correctly (don't tell my wife, with her hair drier). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 including the time it took to clean the tank out with MEK and to drain and dry the tank correctly (don't tell my wife, with her hair drier). Oooh, you're BUSTED!!! Yeah that $$$ amount sounds about right. Looks like these other guys are saying you don't need to connect ALL the hoses though, just the one on the top. All I know is when I pinched all the hose connectors shut and welded them up (filled the tank with water after rinsing it several times and then welded in case anyone was wondering) on my tank I couldn't get more than 8 gallons of gas in the tank, which is why we did yours the way we did Mat. What we did may have been overkill, but I have no doubt that it will work and last for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Absolutely do not use heater hose. They won't hold up to the gas. if you smell gas with a full tank, then the hoses may be rotted. I wouldn't worry about the expansion tank not being connected to the engine, as long as the vent terminates outside the passengers compartment. Always wondered why they needed 3 separate vent lines on one tank. Thought maybe it had something to do when turning. Seems like plugging all but the one at the top of the tank should save some $$ on hoses. Good to know that fix works. My 70 was built without a charcoal cannister. The vent tank is plumbed to the intake manifold when the engine is running, and the crankcase when the engine is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 My tank is out for hose replacement too. I am looking to close off all but the highest vent line. I don't want to damage the tank so I'll drill out brass block-off plugs and braze these on. That will allow removal later is needed or desired. Later tanks do not have all of these hoses so I don't know why removal of same would prevent filling the tank. While I'm at it I was thinking of cutting and rewelding the vent tube which requires the U-bend hose. There appears to be plenty of room to do so and install a straight hose through the body and up to the expansion tank. Any thoughts on why it wasn't done like this from the factory or reasons it couldn't be done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 My tank is out for hose replacement too. I am looking to close off all but the highest vent line. I don't want to damage the tank so I'll drill out brass block-off plugs and braze these on. That will allow removal later is needed or desired. Later tanks do not have all of these hoses so I don't know why removal of same would prevent filling the tank. While I'm at it I was thinking of cutting and rewelding the vent tube which requires the U-bend hose. There appears to be plenty of room to do so and install a straight hose through the body and up to the expansion tank. Any thoughts on why it wasn't done like this from the factory or reasons it couldn't be done? I am wondering if the reason for so many hoses (stock) is because of the multiple baffles in the tank? I have a 01-71 and when I was cleaning the tank out it seemed like there were at least three baffles. That seems to make sence to me why Jon couldn't fill past 8 gallons, if one or two of the compartments weren't filling because they weren't able to vent. Maybe Nissan changed the design of the fuel tank baffles to compensate for 1) not having such a cluister of vent lines; and 2) a more efficient fuel delivery system...?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 BTW, YAY, I broke 20 posts!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 BTW, YAY, I broke 20 posts!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 I am wondering if the reason for so many hoses (stock) is because of the multiple baffles in the tank? I have a 01-71 and when I was cleaning the tank out it seemed like there were at least three baffles. That seems to make sence to me why Jon couldn't fill past 8 gallons, if one or two of the compartments weren't filling because they weren't able to vent. Maybe Nissan changed the design of the fuel tank baffles to compensate for 1) not having such a cluister of vent lines; and 2) a more efficient fuel delivery system...?? That was exactly my thought. There are at least 3 baffles, and I figured one hose to vent out of each compartment. Maybe they're leaky enough at the top that it doesn't matter if you plug them off, but why would Nissan have put a hose there then? What works works, but it just seems weird to me that Nissan would have added all that plumbing for nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Maybe someone with a rotted tank and a torch would cut one open to investigate further. I do have a spare tank but it is in usable condition so I hate to chop it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Is there any way to fix a dented tank? I've got a big dent on one of the corners, and it's dam hard to find a nice tank without spending Big Buck$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 One way is to braze or weld steel rods to the tank in the damaged area. You can then use leverage to pull the rods outward thus pulling the dented area with it. You can also drill holes and use a puller to extract the dent. Finally, you can drill slightly larger holes through the opposing side and use a rounded tip bar stock to knock the dent outwards. The last two do require the holes to be brazed or welded up though. I'd bet a web search for dent repair would show one or more of these techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Is there any way to fix a dented tank? I've got a big dent on one of the corners, and it's dam hard to find a nice tank without spending Big Buck$. I actually fixed a dented tank on my Fiesta with an M80. The car rotated off a set of jack stands and settled one of the stands into the bottom of the tank. Took the tank off, rinsed it several times with water, then dropped the M80 in the fill hole. Worked perfectly. A dented corner might be more difficult since it is a high crown area. Maybe need 2 M80's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Hey, Ed260Z, Make sure you submerge the tank in water and rinse a few times before introducing the flame! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 The legend reads #11 Fuel Supply pipe 3/16" and the #10 return 5/16" ? That smells backwards to me... Or is it a pressure / velocity thing before the pump? looks like i got them backwards, woops yeah, switch'em around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 I actually fixed a dented tank on my Fiesta with an M80. A dented corner might be more difficult since it is a high crown area. Maybe need 2 M80's. Well I don't think I'll do the M80 "repair" technique. With my luck I'll leave some gas in there, and I'll have a real BOOM. LOL I not good at welding(UNDERSTATEMENT OF THE YEAR), so do you think a Rad repair shop fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 You could ask. I'd also consider a body shop for an estimate (after having the tank flushed at a rad shop). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 After much thought processing I've decided to "T" the rear vent hoses together and tie this into the expansion tank. I'll also use the front vent hose. I'll "T" it into one of the other two hoses at the expansion tank. I did have my fuel tank flushed and lined although it was in excellent condition (just VERY minor rust at some of the seams). My 11/70 tank only has one baffle about three inches high dividing the tank, front to back and just off center (does that make sense?). I also have a late 72 tank built to same way. The baffling does allow fuel to flow underneath it through open seams. It would interesting to actually determine if earlier or later tanks had multiple baffling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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