4link, ladder bars, etc...

[boostedz31]

hello all. ive decided i wanted to build a strip car.. and it happens to be that i have a parts car that would make a perfect pavementpounder.. anyway. I want to learn more about rear axle set-up. I think i want to use a gm 12 bolt or ford 9". But i need to learn alot about the actual set-ups. I'm thinking leaf springs with lift bars would be the cheapest. Is there a book or web site anyone would like to inform me about? thanks! I'll have to ask more questions when i go to prescott drag this year.. ive never been interested in anything beyond street.. until now~ if anyone is curious my goal is to power my 72 240 parts car with a 396, im going to build a reliable race motor, and add to it as time goes by... ending up with a 8-71 charged beast..

 

for anyone who has done this before.. would you recommend just putting the 240 body on a frame set-up for chevy engine/tranny/ and rear end? this would add weight, but you could also delete alot of the z metal being it only has to support its shell, instead of the drivetrain as well...i think this would be alot stronger chassis, and cheaper as well. I spend my money on my toys, but i dont have endless funds..lol

[5foot2]

Go buy the book "Door Slammers: The Chassis Book".

 

There is not a lot of room in a Z to back half it, leaf springs will be tough.

[boostedz31]

alright.. thanks~ i have another parts car that has a dana rear end in it. but it is cobbled up trash.. i bought it as parts only... they used 2" square tubing for the whole back half.. anyway ill look under it next time im at the parents farm and see how close everything is. that car had a pontiac 400 in it.. and they "said" it would pull wheelies, but i dont believe it...

[5foot2]

If it's a Dana 60 that's been cut to fit the rear of the Z. You should use that instead of a 12 bolt or 9 inch. It's a much better diff than the others. It's a big diff though, common in 1 ton trucks and van. Also used in the Hemi and 440 six Pack mopars. It might look odd under a Z.

[Michael]

The guy who built the frame for my 280Z had a strip-only 280Z with a custom tube chassis and a 4-link. Road handling was awful, but the car ran low 10’s. This was in the 1980’s – so, the technology is dated by 20 years.

 

It’s true that there isn’t enough room in a Z for leaf springs or ladder bars, but a 4-link will fit – with enough surgery to the sheet metal. There’s a member on this site (his handle is Japtin, or something like that) with a semi-kit tube chassis. Jegs or Chris Alston might sell a “Vega/Pinto†kit that with considerable customization would fit a Z.

 

Another option is to retain the IRS but beef up the halfshafts, stub axles, etc. – and go with a R230. Weight and balance issues with a big block can be offset by moving the firewall aft, for more engine setback. This is the approach that I took. Of course, there’s no guarantee of launch consistency.

 

If you’re going to go with a big block Chevy, don’t settle for a 396; the weight penalty of a big block deserves at least a 454, if not larger. If I were to do my swap all over again, I’d begin with a Dart Big-M block (4.600 bore) with at least 4.25†stroke.

[boodlefoof]

I'm planning on building my 240 with a solid rear axle as well, but setting it up for the road course. I'm planning on either a three link with panhard (which is what everyone and their mother runs at the track) or going with a Satchell link.

 

For straight line action, the Satchell looks like it would be a good choice, while being able to retain some handling. Just depends on how you set the angles.

 

As far as installation, I'd think you might as well build a chassis for it. I think it would be less trouble than trying to graft the Z body onto another car that may only have a marginally stronger chassis anyway. Also, if you build it you know it will handle the abuse.

 

I agree with Michael on the big block. If you're going to do it, might as well get more cubes out of it. Build the power and then build the chassis and suspension to get it to hook up. (and get out the wheelie bars... )

[Mike kZ]

This is what I did:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=70132&highlight=balck

[jap tin]

4 link is the way to go. I used the Chassisworks eliminator 2 set up. It has provisions for the antiroll bar and wheelie bars. Might as well use the wishbone also.