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TTV8 update


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Well, it's coming along. The boys at the shop laughed at my welding skills (or lack of them) and cleaned up the plumbing of my turbo system. Looks much better now. They did keep the original concept, though. The photos below show the turbos hooked up as they will be when the car goes to the dyno (soon). The exhaust is being reworked as the original was only a mockup. It will be a single very large dual inlet muffler with a dual outlet that fits just behind the tranny. I'm told that when they started it up with just straight pipes, it was fairly quiet. That's what turbos are good for. The only major thing that needs to be ordered now is a new radiator. The one that was originally in the car was one from the Jags that Run folks and it's leaking. Oh well, it gives me the chance to order a (expensive!) aluminum radiator that has a snowball's chance in hell of cooling the car. We also need to figure out the location of the air intakes. Unlike most turbos, the exhaust downpipes head towards the front and the intake tubes go towards the back of the engine compartment. We will probably direct the tubes back and towards the middle of the engine bay. That means I'll need to put a cowl on the hood to get some cold air, which I didn't want to do because I wanted to keep the sleeper look. Oh well, everything is a compromise.

 

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Fastzcars is right. I had a hole melted into my mater brake reservior on a turbo miata. I noticed it before anything bad happened, but I was really lucky. A custom heat sheild solved the problem. Might want to keep that in mind.

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Just a note.

The radiator in your car is not a JTR radiator -- we have never sold a copper- brass radiator. The radiator we offer is a GM style, with the aluminum core.

 

See the following link of the cooling chapter from the V8 conversion manual:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-DatsunZ-Cooling-System.pdf

 

Without trying to sound like a sales pitch (which this is), the radiator we sell cools well, and allows air to flow easily through the core, and this will help make your intercooler function more efficiently.

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Thanks guys, every little bit of input helps. Otherwise, I'll find out what I should have done by sad experience. I was worried about the master cylinder issue, but I wasn't aware that anyone had ever nearly burned a hole in one. That would be a thrill ride I could skip.

 

I'll revisit the radiator thing with my mechanic, because it sure will save me a lot over what they suggested.

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Turbo blankets, heat shields and header wrap will do wonders for the under hood temps.

Would it be possible to add a couple of ducts to the hood above the filter inlets to draw cooler air, then you may not have to run a cowl hood.. just a thought, but anyway,

IT LOOKS AWESOME!!

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It looks great!!!

You are so close to being done.

I found out it isn't so much the radiator as it is the airflow through it that determines cooling temperatures. Even in 100 degree weather I have no cooling problems with the Taurus 2 speed electric fan.

 

In response to your post about fearing for my life...I'm good, now that the NHRA has blessed my new roll cage with certification down to 7.50 in the quarter mile.:-D So obviously, regardless of how fast I run I will never be harmed.

Hanns

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I will second or third the comment about the heat shield, its a must.

 

also, why not cut two holes in the fire wall that lead into stock cowl panel? there is plenty of room in there for two small filters and that would keep it looking as stock as possible. only problem with that though would driving it in the rain....don't know how often you plan on driving that beast in the rain though :)

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It never rains in Colorado :) BTW, some of you are still able to post smilies on this forum. How do you do that with the current software we use on HybridZ?

 

Actually, we have considered the option of putting the intakes through the firewall. Just wasn't sure how much room there was back there near the wiper motors , but we could put a couple of RamAir scoops near them. And yes, it will be a bitch changing the plugs. I would probably have to remove the turbos to make it an easy job. The downpipes conveniently separate in half to make turbo removal easy.

 

As to the speed at which this is coming together, it's nice having the luxury of having the work done to the car while I'm at my day job. I decided that it would take a long time to get it done if I didn't farm out the completion of the work-I had been close to completing it for a couple of years now. It was kindof sad not turning every bolt on the car by myself, but most of the concept is mine and I think it's great having input from the pros at the shop .

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Silicone boy,

We have 3 brand new “Ron Davis Racing” Radiators in stock. These are the aluminum cross flow radiators, brand new still in the boxes. Tanks are 3” wide, core is 2 ¼” thick. For the late 260 and all 280 applications, we sell the 26”x19” with the Chevy in/out and they fit snuggly between the late 260 and the 280 Frame Rails. They even fit the 280 ZX nicely as well. We also offer a Ron Davis that fits the early 240 and early 260 with those cars respective shorter core support and ever so slightly narrower frame rails.

In regards to keeping the engine cool, these radiators are among the best, are priced very reasonable and have a nice custom look, “not” like the Griffins. For my personal V-8 Z used the JTR lower radiator support and scratch built cradle arms to capture the sides of the tanks so that the radiator was “free floating” in my V-8 car.

The radiators I have in stock are what's pictured, they have no special features or options. If you need special mounting brackets, custom in/out locations or angles, or even integral tranny cooler, we can special order those. For more info, just ask at the address below.

As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, it has also been our experience with cooling the V-8 Z cars, air flow through the radiator is one of the biggest keys. The cheapo slim electric fans are maybe only adequate for stock V-8’s even with the big radiators. The Ford 2 speed fans and some of the higher end aftermarket electric cooling fans are a worthy investment.

 

Paul and Krystin Ruschman

Rusch Motorsports

 

ruschmotorsports@hotmail.com

 

 

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Silicon Boy,

I have been reading your post and notice you are going to need a hood riser.

I bought a fiberglass cowl hood used, Its a 2.5" lift I think.

If you are interested let me know.

I bought it off a hybrid Z user, It still needs a little work. The reason I want to sell it is because Its more lift than I want. I don't want people to look at my car and right off think that its been hopped up..

I have a stock hood on its way from Arizon right now, Went and destroyed the original hood sand blasting it..

That mistake has cost me some money..

 

steenhagen @ charter dot net

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Apparently, the new radiator has arrived and is already in the car. That aluminum unit looks great though.

 

As for the cowl hood, we decided to go deluxe with it and we have located a company that can make us a custom cowl fiberglass hood. It will take 3 weeks.

 

 

 

As for the cost of the turbo setup, well I quit counting long ago because it gives me heartburn to think about it. The manifolds are simply modified Corvette LT1 units flipped over with a T3 turbo flange adapted to it. Fairly cheap and can be obtained off of EBAY for under $100. I tried to go budget on the turbos, they are Buick GN units that I obtained for $200 each on EBAY, and I put some Ford T3 housings on them (also cheaply obtained). I essentially had a T3/T4ish hybrid. Upon further inspection though, the turbos needed rebuilding at $600 each. If I were to do it again, I would get a real T3/T4 hybrid. It woulda cost less. The huge intercooler was bought from a company on EBAY out of Hong Kong for about $500 (Perfect fit) although I had to get the intake and outlet sides modified. Turbo hat cost $100. The inlet and outlet plumbing was not bad--mid hundreds for all of it including blowoff valves and external wastegates.

 

Overall, not cheap, but it could have been a lot worse. Oh, I forgot the Electromotive fuel injection setup, which some think is essential for a turbo system-I don't want to tell you how much it all cost because it would be a sad reminder, but you can look it up. Then I had to upgrade the fuel system to feed this beast (huge fuel lines, huge fuel pump, etc). And so it spirals out of control.

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