randy 77zt Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 after 2 weeks of delays becuase of work and not having the right liner for my mig i finally got it working .biggest trick is having to weld fast -i turned the wire speed down and had problems.i welded some scraps together but will be welding more scraps before welding on my intercooler.i am sure johnc has some advise.my local welding shop said the trick with the liner is to go 1 size bigger than the wire.it jammed once but i straightend the hose out and no more jamming.hopefully that small bottle of argon will get the job done by the time i get the hang of it.does anybody run argon for everything?because i have a large bottle of 75/25 and i am thinking it would be easier just to run argon on everything.the weld has a dark grey look when done but if you brush it off it looks good.i have a bunch of ford f250 diesel ic tubing to practice on-nothing like free parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 Well, since I MIG weld aluminum everyday, I might be able to help. You are correct in you discovery... You weld aluminum "Hot and Fast", I like to tell new welders to "get in and get out as fast as possible". The biggest issue is how fast alum. transfers heat. That's why you need a big machine to do it. I actually TIG weld everything with argon, but honestly, I have not attempted to MIG steel with it though I do think you can with no issues. My trick for welding aluminum is to weld it hot and crank the gas up to about 45 psig. Always push your weld. For years we used Millermatic 250's with 30A spool guns. I got real good at changing tips, LOL. I do recommend you buy alot of spare tips because when you are welding AL at the optimal setting, you are basically pooring the weld into the puddle. You don't want to see the wire jamming into the puddle. When you're pooring the weld in, that's called "full weld spray". That's the way you want to weld aluminum. I can't really give you recommendations on settings since every machine is different. Just know that when you're welding it "right" you're going to be moving uncomfortably fast until you get the hang of if. edit: Forgive me if I'm mentioning the obvious, but that aluminum MUST BE CLEAN! Use a designated stainless steel wire brush to clean it and wipe it down with either denatured alcohol or acetone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 You can MIG weld with argon on steel but it will splatter more. Mixed gas is much neater on steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 Can you guys show me a picture of an aluminum weld done with a Mig. I have never done it but I am interested in it. I guess you use the same gas CO2/ARGON. Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 To reiterate what Jamie said... High gas flow 45-50 cfm is imperative (if it is blacking with soot you're too low on gas) Argon is best on aluminum and stainless while helium is tops! A mixed gas is best for mild steel Push do not pull the wire feed Clean well and only use clean stainless steel brushes Get a few spare tips and cups (splatter shield spray can prolong the life of the tip and cup when applied directly to both but they do away quickly with such a hot transfer) Plan on lots of "birdcaging" using the teflon liner and gun Plan on buying a spool gun and controller if you want to weld aluminum in any quanity (about a $600-700 investment) but well worth it Go to TIG otherwise P.S. I've used splatter shield spray with some success in reducing the excess molten metal from marring the surrounding surfaces too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 I've only welded AL with a MIG machine at the Lincoln Electric school and for one custom who wanted me to repair the AL bed on his tow truck. Follow all the advice listed above and make sure the AL is physically and chemically cleaned just before you start welding. Also: 1. Make a few practice passes without pulling the trigger. As said above, once you start you'll really be moving so you need to know where you're going. 2. The splatter spray/gel helps but after you dip or spray, weld on a scrap piece for a second or two. Sometimes the startup is a little funky until the splatter stuff gets off the wire. 3. Keep your head out of the fumes. MIG welding AL generates a lot of fumes and that stuff can't be good for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 The guys are correct about the spatter sheild. I don't personally use it since I when I weld, it's more for a production type situation and don't want to spend time welding on scrap prior to starting my arc on the work piece. The machines we use now are pulse arc, and "pulse on pulse" with push-pull wire feeders. We don't have any issues with tip burning or bird nesting. Since I have never used a standard wire feeder to weld aluminum, I can't be much help to you about preventing those problems. As mentioned above, you should be able to pick-up a spool gun for a reasonable price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted December 23, 2005 Author Share Posted December 23, 2005 my welder-thermalarc 180 viking-runs on 220volts.seems to have plenty of power for average hobby use.will get some stainless wire brushes and turn the gas up a little.thanks for the hints.i dont like farming out my stuff-it seems like if something is welded away from the car it doesnt fit when it comes back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 I am about to convert my welder to weld aluminum.. I have found that Lincoln Electric recommends a new aluminum welding kit, which is basically a new liner, new "roller" as I call it that feeds the aluminum and a spool of aluminum. I also did alot of research on a spool gun. Has anyone had any success with the new liner and feed? or would you recommend a spool gun?! Also I did some research on "Spray Arc" versus "Pulse arc" and I was not able to find any information what my welder produces. Since I have a CV "constant voltage" machine, I assumed my welder is a Spray Arc. Can I convert a Spray arc to a Pulse arc? or do I have to buy a Pulse Arc machine?! Thanks guys! I know its a dead thread and lots of questions but my searching ability and all this reading brought me to a dead end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 I use the aluminum kit in my lincoln 135 from time to time. I actually made some aluminum windows for a customer's roof house. They did turn out very well, in spite of the fact that I do not weld on a daily basis. It is fairly easy to install and then uninstall the special liner and wheels as needed. Double check the polarity, keep the hose as straight as you can so the soft alum wire does not slow down or kink. You can do it, it is as easy or as hard as everything else you have done so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 I am about to convert my welder to weld aluminum.. I have found that Lincoln Electric recommends a new aluminum welding kit, which is basically a new liner, new "roller" as I call it that feeds the aluminum and a spool of aluminum. I also did alot of research on a spool gun. Has anyone had any success with the new liner and feed? or would you recommend a spool gun?! Also I did some research on "Spray Arc" versus "Pulse arc" and I was not able to find any information what my welder produces. Since I have a CV "constant voltage" machine, I assumed my welder is a Spray Arc. Can I convert a Spray arc to a Pulse arc? or do I have to buy a Pulse Arc machine?! Thanks guys! I know its a dead thread and lots of questions but my searching ability and all this reading brought me to a dead end. I've run about 5 hrs with a teflon liner with no problems. Spray arc is a characteristic of how the molten metal is deposited into the pool vs. short circuiting/ "short arc". As you turn up the juice, provided you have enough amperage, short arcing turns into spray arcing eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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