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Basic Wireing


Ed260Z

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I'm in the process of this now...

 

I knew I could count on you to be forthcoming with any information. From the looks of things I won't be dropping in the engine for 2 months. Hopefully by then you will have found all the bugs. LOL:icon56:

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Q, got a wiring question, On the RB there is a map sensor that draws from the intake manifold, located next to the brake booster, the vac line is even attached to the brake booster line. Is this a sensor that is important or is it just the sensor for the electronic boost gauge?

 

I'm asking because it is the only thing on the old drivers side wiring harness that looked important. if it is just a sensor for the old boost gauge then I'll not sweat it.

 

Also, I got the entire wiring harness from behind the dash from the clip so I have plenty of wire to run my connections, I'm assuming the infamous "white connector" is the one that has three connections on it near the ecu, the smallest one obviously is not needed because it was headed towards the back of the car. Which of the two big white connectors has the wires I need to tap into the ignition? Just the one going to the ecu?

 

One last question, how does the tranny/starter harness connect to the engine main harness?, is it the connector that goes forward of the maf, or did I just forget a connection down by the starter that connects it. This last one I'll probaby find out when I put the stuff back together, but I just thought I'd throw it out there. :D

 

I intend to take plenty of pics of all the wire connections showing exactly what wire goes where, as I go. It makes the swap easier for those that follow. (which is why there are more then a few B6T festivas running around since I posted pics of the wiring for that) Having good info for the wiring is great but nothing beats pics of the wiring showing what goes where.

Chris Rummel

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all,

 

This thread appears to have been going for over a year now and quite honestly im still not totally sure as to how to wire up my R33 RB26 engine harness?

 

I need to work this out over the next couple of weeks as I expect to be starting the car for the first time in 3 - 4 weeks time.

 

I have the R33 engine manual but don`t want to get it wrong and short the whole engine out!

 

Does anyone have any further help to add on this topic?

 

Thanks

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  • 1 month later...

I'll be doing my wiring on the car probably next week, I'll be photo documenting as I go so hopefully this will put new info out there to make it easier for those that follow. FWIW I'm doing an RB25DET into a 75 280Z, but with photos it should make it even easier regardless of what Z car you have.

Chris Rummel

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I think it is because if you don't make notes or take photos while you do it you are just glad to have it done and get it started. I'll try to take as much detail as possible, I'll note the power and ground hook ups, the attaching of the tranny wiring to Z car wiring, and I'll be doing the wiring of the fuel pump direct from the battery, though a relay to the fuel pump using 10 gauge wire for the power delivery and I'll show how I did it.

That should cover pretty much all the wiring, execept the alternator external regulator convertion and that has been covered good enough already.

Hopefully it will become a sticky for others.

Chris Rummel

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I got about 80% of the wiring done today, got a lot of good shots of the wiring, This really is not too bad as you guys will see when I post the pics

only about 5 or 6 wires coming off the white connector and I intigrated a plug under the dash for a couple of wires so I didn't have to go up to the ignition switch for those, litterly plug and play that.

I also cut out the isolator connector from the skylines main fuse box and mounted it on a bracket so I can run the big hot from the skyline tranny harness right to it, and the other side goes to the big battery connection hot. Since my friends car is using the Greddy intake manifold, I also found that I need to lengthen the wires for the two connectors that go to the IAC valve, got shots of that too. I spliced the Z lower harness that plugs in, into the lower RB harness, and I ran the rest of the main harness through the firewall to the stock Z ecu location, and it will be a bit tight for room in there, but I;ll get it right.

Man, you really burn a lot of brain calories doing the wiring, I spent most of the morning just separating the harness and double and triple checking the lines seeing what goes where on the harness with the multimeter.

I took a couple of progress shots so you can see how intimidating the spagetti mess is before you sort it. Then took some shots showing how much simpler it is after you do it.

Believe me this will be much easier, to understand after I post this stuff, I found that before doing it, I was overthinking this wiring, hopefully this will make the wiring easier for others. Even though this guide will be for a fuel injected 280z the wires are the same as far as hooking up the ecu so regardless of the Z car you have, this will be easier.

I should have the pics up some time early next week.

Chris Rummel

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Not a problem, I like to lend a hand to my fellow gearheads. got almost all the way done the wiring today. About the only thing left is the connections at the alternator. So far my largest problem is space, fitting that fat RB tranny harness in there is a Bitch! I stripped off a few of the now useless chassis connectors and the power steering connectors and also some of the hard plastic covering to make manipulating the harness easier. I added extention wires with quick disconnects for the connector that is way up in there behind the IAC valve, that thing was hard to get to before I put the manifold on the engine, now it is impossible to get to, so I had the forsight to add these wires to make it easier to get to and connect, glad I did too, because I even had to add a middle extention to the ones I already made before.

I worked some REAL magic getting the connectors and relays and about 2 feet of wire stuffed up in the small area next to the clutch pedal, I'm still kind of supprised it all made it up in there!!

I made a small change to the wiring of the hots, the instructions have the black/red fat wire and the fat red wire both going to the fat red and white ign on and hot wire. I sent the black and red main ignition wire there, but the ECCS relay backup wire and the backup power/ memory wire for the ecu pin58 I connected to the fat red wire that goes straight to the battery, this was the main power wire for the stock fuel injection harness, so it seemed perfect to use for that same purpose on the RB harness. I wanted to make sure that pin 58 wire went to an always hot connection also because when I get the power FC in there it states that on some engine swaps the memory wire for the ecu is not connected properly and the ecu blanks out when ever you turn off the ignition. (my friend with the SR20 swap is finding this out now and having to run a wire so I made sure I did it while I was in there)

I did have one brain fart today, I forgot to get the lavender water temp out wire out of the bundle to run up to the water temp gauge, I figure I have 3 courses of solving this, first pull my bundle down from the space with all my connectors in and pull that one wire out, vampire tap right at the ecu connection, or run a separate wire vampired off the wire at the sender in the engine compartment and attach it directly to the temp sender wire on the z harness. We'll see which one I'm most up for when I scope it out this week.

I also found I had to move my isolator connection up higher on the fender well, to properly postion the tranny harness.

Getting there I suppose. :icon56:

Chris Rummel

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I hit a couple of snags, first is the differnce in the wire color on the RB harness plug at the alternator, it seems to be that the S post wire on the RB is Aqua green instead of the white with red stripe, I think that is nearly sorted, but now I have a second problem. I followed the instructions for the external regulator bypass from Z car creations but when testing my yellow Z car wire that attaches to the S post I found it to have continutiy to ground!!! That is not right! so looking around for info on the external regulator bypass now. After following the instuctions from that link, I had the yellow wire going to 6 on there, which goes to ground after going though a condenser, my connector didn't have a white and blue wire at 6. The second problem with the bypass wiring is that there is not a wire coming out of my #1 connection there is a wire from regulator side but nothing on the harness side, so which 2 get connected with the diode???? I found a post from Bastaad525 that has yellow and white connected, and white with black connecting to black with whitestripe for the diode, but i don't have a black with white stripe wire?

 

FWIW this car is a 75 280z from California, so the wiring is more similar to a 260z then anything else, soooo i think the yellow and white connection is good, but what do I connect the white/black with a diode to??? the white/black goes to the L post on the alternator if I have to run a wire from somewhere else to go to this i will I just don't know what.

:frown:

Chris

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Ok, I've decided to sort out the external regulator mod, the way I had it per the Zcar creations was totally wrong for a 75 280z, in this car the wiring is much more similar to a 260z in that it has the stupid shunts and the wiring at the voltage regulator is similar. My wiring going up to the regulator only had 5 wires and wiring it like it was had the yellow wire going to a green wire that tested postive for going to ground! I'll be connecting the yellow to the white and the white/black with the diode to a new hot when on wire I'll run out from inside the car, and that should take care of the regulator, I'm just leaving the shunts alone, since as long as they work, I'll leave them. I'm taking pics so the path will be smoother.

Chris Rummel

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Well the wiring is pretty much done, I got the regulator deletion sorted out, the alternator wires sorted out, got the new fuel pump relay run, all the fuel pump wiring done, fuel pump mounted, and the fuel tank back in today. also got all the fuel lines done. I hope to get the pics up when I get a spare minute. Only one problem today, the driveshaft needs to go back to the driveshaft shop, as they made it too long, I followed the instructions on the website, but I don't think the metal collar on the back of the RB tranny was taken into account. I want to finish the rest of the wiring (stuff to the gauges and putting in the boost controller) and then I should be able to get the pics up.

Chris Rummel

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, nearly done the swap, so after I get it started and running this week, I'll post the pics, etc. I want to make sure it starts up and runs properly before I post stuff, so that you can follow in confidence.

I just want to make sure everything is good to go. I'm at the point of just adding fluids now so it won't be too much longer.

Chris Rummel

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