george.bryant Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Hey guys i've been going through the annoying process of chaing my headgasket incase you didnt know. Everything has gone good except for something that I was told has a pretty high chance of happening... The timing chain slipped a tooth and i couldnt get the cam sprocket to fit to the cam properly as the chain wasnt allowing me enough slack. I got annoyed so i checked my chain wedge and it was a bit lose. Next thing I know i'm like 3 links shorter...then more...Then the tensioner had came lose and the arc or the chain wasnt there I knew straight away that the chain had slipped so I just let it. Its being help up again now but it fairly short compared to before. Obviously I have the get the front cover off and get everything realigned. What exactly needs to be done to remove it? At the moment my radiator, distributor and oil pump are still attached so I'll take them off, the fan is also attached so how do I go about getting it off. WIll the crank pulley be in the way, it looks to me astho it will be. How do i remedy this? Regards, George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 A dude from Skylines Australia (thread is here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100923) has been helping me. I'm pretty clued up on it all now and guess theres nothing i can really do until I get my hands on a claw style puller? I'm going to try and rent one from my local Handi-Hire. what should i use? I shouldved listened to you guys and taken the chain off the way i did in the first place.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeiss150 Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 My L engine crank pully never needed a puller... once you remove the bolt it should just slide off. There is no taper in the crank it's held on with the bolt and a "key". Just try to tap on it with a malet or something... I think I used a 2x4 and a hamer? Your also going to buy some cover gaskets and an oil pan gasket which means you'll need to take the oil pan off. I almost forgot about the front oil seal you'll need to replace that too. Good luck! let us know how it goes. Matt- P.S. the above info is based on an L28 not a skyline engine so... P.P.S. While your at it pull your block replace the main and rod bearings bore the cylinders and replace the rings and ballance the rotating mass ... how much more work could it be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted January 7, 2006 Author Share Posted January 7, 2006 Ok, im stuck with the front cover. it wont budge. i have the sump bolts out in front of the crossmember, do I need to get all of the sump bolts out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chemicalblue Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Just get a bright light and a long screwdriver and most of the time you can get the tentioner back in, It may take 3 to 4 hands to get it done. I have had mine come out completely and used a magnet and a flat head to slip it back in NP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 George.... are you and Mr. Newman still on speaking terms ? Pull the distrinitor, remove oi pump...let oil pump/distribitor drop out . remove all bolts that connect oil pan to front cover and loosen additional bolts from oil pan without removing them Radiator has to be removed.. ........................the front cover has some "hidden" bolts going from water pump thru front cover to engine block .. Some times the front cover needs a little persuasion with mallet and wood block... but if resists comomg off..... check for a "hidden" bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted January 7, 2006 Author Share Posted January 7, 2006 Ok!!! I finally got it off, after a shitload of CRC (WD40), a whole small can of it infact! And CRC gasket remover in the seam between the front cover and block. (I was very carefull not to get it near my near head gasket). Then about 10 mins later and alot of baking in the sun (its was 28 celcius here when i was doing it) i gave the four corners a whack with a hammer and it finally came lose!! Then I cleaned all of the bits that came off with degreaser for a good hour. They came up really nice! While the degreaser was doing it's job I started working on the tensionner, chain and getting it the cam sprocket back on the cam (with the chain on it). Now i'm a bit paranoid that in the whole process of getting the crankshaft pulley bolt out, that I moved it from TDC. My cam is set to how it was when I took the head off. I adjusted the crank to back to what should have been TDC on #1. Then I put the cam sprocket with chain back onto the cam. Was that the correct thing to do? I have "How to Modify Datsun & Nissan Motors" and a Skyline FSM (doesnt actually cover the L20ET though, only the L20 (carb) and L24E. I'm pretty sure I set the timing correct in that perspective but im not sure. I tried going by the literature that I have. Someone PLEASE help me out, PM me if you dont feel like writing a reply to this. How do I know that the cam is alligned with the crankshaft correctly? If the timings all messed up when I get it running again will it be a huge mission to correct it? ;etc etc Regards, George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 How do I know that the cam is alligned with the crankshaft correctly? If the timings all messed up when I get it running again will it be a huge mission to correct it? ;etc etc Regards' date=' George[/quote'] There are two bright silver-colored links on the timing chain that are spaced apart such that they should line up with the alignment dots on the crank sprocket and the cam sprocket. For the cam sprocket there are three alignment dots, marked "1", "2" and "3". These correspond to similarly marked holes at the center of the cam sprocket. You want to use the dot whose number sorresponds to the hole that has the camshaft alignment dowel in it. ...did that make any sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted January 7, 2006 Author Share Posted January 7, 2006 yeah thats wht the book says, but how does that make sure that everythings set right? "You want to use the dot whose number sorresponds to the hole that has the camshaft alignment dowel in it." what do you mean by this? i lined up the bright link with the number 3 dot as its the only one that i could set it up with and have the cam sprocket go onto the cam without trouble. i dont understand this dowel stuff tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Dont worry about getting your cam crank timing out of whack # 1 at TDC #1 cam lobes at 10 and 2 The two brite links will align on the right hand side as you face the motor One link on top at about the 2 oclock The bottom link I think around 4 oclock. Check and replace your chain guides. Make sure not to over torque, like me, those little m8 bolts Getting the crank gear off can be difficult the first time. Lubrication heat and force are your friends. Be very careful with a puller to protect the nose of your crank. Once you get it off take the dizzy gear off also. Take some fine emory cloth and dress the crank snout like you would polish a shoe. Use along strip with one end in each hand. Also dress the keys and the inside of each gear until they slip easily in place. I dropped the chain once. Then I bought a piece from MSA or some other z house thatbolted onto the tension and kept it in place even if there was not chain tension and would keep the lower part of the chain on the crank gear. Think it was ~$70.00 us but very handy. In reassembly I dropped several crankshaft keys into the oil pan. Just get a magnet and fish them out. I would take a dollop of bule silicon rtv and set the keys the night before into their respective recesses. Then the next day slip the gears on. It was always very difficult to get the keys in perfectly so that there was no drag when installing the gear. It will bind up on you so if it is not budging pull it off polish everything with the emory cloth and try again. We will get to the dizzy timing if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted January 7, 2006 Author Share Posted January 7, 2006 Yes got all that thank you. What can you tell me on dizzy timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 # 1 at TDC #1 cam lobes at 10 and 2 The two brite links will align on the right hand side as you face the motor One link on top at about the 2 oclock The bottom link I think around 4 oclock. If you make sure the cam and crank are aligned like this' date=' then you won't be able to get it wrong - the bright links will only align with the correct (marked) cam sprocket tooth. The three marked teeth are spaced too far apart to be able to reach the wrong ones if you use the above rough alignment. [b']However[/b], you DO need to worry about getting the bright links on the correct (marked with a dot) tooth - you don't want to be one tooth off. "About 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock" is definitely not good enough - that's just where you need to look for the correct timing marks. I guarantee it will run like sh!t if you are off a tooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 YEah That is right. They will match with marks on each gear.. Dizzy This was always fun. Can be done by one person but goes alot faster with 2, one person watching the oil pumpinstall from the top. #1 tdc #1 cam lobes 10 and 2 1.Pour a little oil in the oil pump so that it will be primed 2.install the oil pump so that the oil pump shaft tang, as viewed from the top,is positioned at the 10:25 position. The smaller part of the offset of the tang should face the front of the motor. 3. This is detailed on page 93 of the How to Modify Datsun L Motors Nice to see someone is enjoying Summer this time of year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Once you have determined that the chain bright links, cam sproket and crankshaft gear are all lined up and piston and valve lifters indicate TDC (Stick your little finger or screw driver in the # 1 spark plug hole to feel piston at top of stroke)......... you can now replace the front cover and install the distribitor/oil pump shaft.... A auto manual should give you a photo of where the shaft male slot should be oreinted at 11:25 AM for proper placement of pump and dizzy. Secure the top of the shaft at the dizzy hole with a pair of needle nose vice grips at 11:25 AM . Look into the pump and align the pump's female slot to engage the shaft's male slot and bolt the oil pump to bottom of cover... At the top of cover, mount dizzy and dizzy rotar should be pointed at dizzy cap's #1 wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 Yep it was at 11:25 when i took it out,i even scribed a little line into the front cover. i'll be going out to arrange all this chain **** soonish, will let u all know how i go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 I have all the bolts off the oil pan but the bloody thing wont budge. Any ideas people? Its like the seal has glued it on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeiss150 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 try to run a putty knife around the gasket. If you missed a bolt you'll find it that way. if the putty knife wont work I would use a big flat head screwdriver and try to pry that sucker off. the block is not gonna bend and if the pan bends that should break the gasket seal... just makes sure you bend it back befor you put it back on. good luck Matt- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pete Z Racing Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 George, I have been there it sucks. There is no easy way out!!!! Take your time (lots) and drink heavily!!!! I will have a cold one for you! Best way to avoid this mess is next time make sure your battery is disconnected, so starter does not jump, then take the Largest red and blue handle Craftsman flat blade screw driver (handle down)and hit it into the space between the chain guides(IT IS A PERFECT FIT). With the screw driver in place you can do your head work. To remove the screw driver if it is stuck; AFTER! head, chain and timing gear are back on and bolted in place, tap your starter and the small rotation of the engine will dislodge the screw driver and it can easily be removed. If you follow this it won't happen again. Try to have a great weekend Pete 366 H.P. 418 Torque 6cyl <http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2116389> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 Ok, I got the pan to budge finally. And now I have the pain in the *** of the fuel rail brackets... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest viparz Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Could someone please explain what is meant by 10:30, or 11:25? Does it mean half way between 10 and 11 oclock (and also halfway between 4 and 5)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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