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TimZ

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Modified the compressor outlet this weekend - I was able to use 4" radius of curvature mandrel bent tubing to point the outlet forward - much better than the usual elbow...

wilma1.jpg

wilma2.jpg

 

It ended up matching the existing curvature of the compressor housing quite nicely...

wilma3.jpg

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240z-turbo is right. You should be able to brace it vertically and still allow for movement in the direction things will expect. If you don't you WILL get cracks, which are probably what your cracks now are from. Remember the metallurgy of metal would have to change somewhat when they're seeing 1000 deg.

 

If done properly you should be able to disconnect the turbo from the manifold and have it sit there. :)

 

PS. why are you going to the 42R? (and is it the 4294R or the 4202R?) Chasing more than 600hp?

 

Dave

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240z-turbo is right. You should be able to brace it vertically and still allow for movement in the direction things will expect. If you don't you WILL get cracks' date=' which are probably what your cracks now are from. Remember the metallurgy of metal would have to change somewhat when they're seeing 1000 deg.

 

If done properly you should be able to disconnect the turbo from the manifold and have it sit there. :)

 

PS. why are you going to the 42R? (and is it the 4294R or the 4202R?) Chasing more than 600hp?

 

Dave[/quote']

 

In reverse order...

It's a 4294R - yes, I'm going to see how close I can get to 600rwhp. On pump gas :mrgreen: .

 

I'm going to figure out a way to brace the turbo, so everybody can stop worrying about that :)

 

ON3GO, the TIG is the kind that belongs to the guy that welded it for me. ;) I have a MIG and do my own steel stuff, but for aluminum I take it to a guy I trust (same one that welded up my intake plenum). In this case I cut the compressor housing and the tubing to mate and made sure that it would fit in the engine bay. Then I took it over to be welded.

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  • 4 weeks later...

:2thumbs:

 

That is by far the best looking "heat wrap" I have ever seen for a turbo. Extremely sanitary and effective looking.

 

Price$ Tim????

 

I like the heat shields I see for the GN cars as well, but this is new to me and I think it would actually help get the heat out the exhaust better...golly.

 

Davy

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:2thumbs:

 

That is by far the best looking "heat wrap" I have ever seen for a turbo. Extremely sanitary and effective looking.

 

Price$ Tim????

 

I like the heat shields I see for the GN cars as well' date=' but this is new to me and I think it would actually help get the heat out the exhaust better...golly.

 

Davy[/quote']

 

Is was a bit pricey (just under $300), but this one was made for my housing. They have some other shields that fit more common housings that should be a bit less. Actually, they made a mold from mine, so they should be able to reproduce it easily. I even sent them the V-Band clamps to make sure their design accommodated them.

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  • 1 month later...

Just got these pieces back - all mods done by SpeedShopThagard...

 

Here's how SFP SHOULD have done their header in the first place (stainless slip joints):

sfp.jpg

 

A few pics of my new custom muffler - 4" oval inlet and 2.25" round inlet (for the wastegate) to two 3" oval outlets! :shock:

muffler1.jpg

muffler2.jpg

 

If you look closely you can see that the perforated tubing on the inside does an x-pipe style crossover in the middle - very well executed. :D

muffler3.jpg

muffler4.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

New pics - I've finally been able to make some time and made a fair amount of progress on the exhaust.

4 inch downpipe to four inch oval inlet, along with 2.25 inch pipe (with a homemade oval section under the trans) for the wastegate:

 

exhaust1.jpg

exhaust2.jpg

exhaust3.jpg

exhaust4.jpg

 

3 inch oval pipe out each side:

exhaust5.jpg

exhaust6.jpg

 

Oh, and I got the compressor housing polished up:

wilma4.jpg

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Are you using the oval piping to save space? Also' date=' how does oval piping get measured? the big diameter or the little diameter?

[/quote']

 

Yes - there would be no way to fit a 3 inch round pipe under there - at least not with adequate ground clearance.

 

The oval pipe size goes by equivalent cross-sectional area, so the pipe itself is about 2.25" x 3.5"

 

I was thinking about angle cutting the pipes - haven't decided what I will do there. I'm a bit worried that if I don't like it or if I don't pick the correct angle, I'm kind of stuck with it. Anybody care to photo chop that?

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