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what kind of et's should I be looking at??


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The car is not together yet but am curious

about what kind of timeslips I might expect.

Here's what is will have(for now)

 

355 sbc,10.5 comp ratio,rpm air gap manifold,

750 holley vac sec,roller tip rockers 1.5,

1 5/8 coated block hugger headers,2.5 dual

flows,performance hei,k&n filter,electric

fan.It will also have an 700r4 or 200r4 with

2000 stall.The ratio will be 3.54 open.

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quote:

Originally posted by z ya:

The car is not together yet but am curious

about what kind of timeslips I might expect.

 

355 sbc,10.5 comp ratio,rpm air gap manifold,

750 holley vac sec,roller tip rockers 1.5, It will also have an 700r4 or 200r4 with

2000 stall.The ratio will be 3.54 open.

 

Zya,

 

What cylinder heads & how do you know it will make 10.5:1 comp.ratio? Also I'll need to know what tire size you're running & the camshaft's profile. are you going to use; what car & its weight?

 

On the Heads; have they been milled, do you know what CC's their combustion chambers are: on the camshaft-give me lobe lift, duration @ .050 & its lobe separation angle.

 

If I can get that info; if its not too much at this time-we can run some #'s for ya.

 

Before you plunk your money down on an expensive stall cvtr you might post another thread about which converters everyone running auto/trans are using.

 

If the car is a Z; its a light car & may not need a stall cvtr.

 

If I remember some old posts, Myron, got rid of his stall cvtr; Myron...anyone else running auto's wanna jump in here.

 

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 05, 2001).]

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Hmmm...

I would say anywhere from 13.2 @ 105'ish to maybe as good as 12.7 @ 109'ish. This is assuming you can get it out of the hole. If not, add a good half second to these times.

 

I cannot stress the importance of a good converter. 2000 RPM is O.K. for the street, but it will have it's limitations in even mild drag strip application. I figure since you asked about performance, this is something you are probably going to do more than once in the car's life. The launch is what makes the Z such an incredible drag terror in street trim. For example, my friends supercharged Firebird used to (read... used to biggrin.gif ) run away from me on the highway. At the track however, I could run consistant 13.0's to his very traction limited 13.9 - 13.8's It's all in the launch and a converter is where it's going to happen (assuming the tires stay planted).

 

I've made a little web page that has fellow HybidZ members quarter mile performance numbers on it. Feel free to to browse around and ask any questions. Most of us tend to enjoy the occasional "bench race" here and there.

 

http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/Times.html

 

-Andy

 

P.S. I no longer have a problem with those pesky SC Firebirds... wink.gif

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Sorry I was so vague when I posted this

thread, I just woke up!Ok lets try this again.The motor has flat top pistons with

1.94/1.50 291 casting camel hump heads.These

are 64 cc chambers.They also have mild port

work done on them.The cam is a comp magnum

286 duration with 490 lift on 110 lobe centers.

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Zya:

 

Here's my take on your set up. If I understand correctly this is what you've chosen to go with. 70/240z, 355 10.5:1, 700r4/200r4 trans, 750 Holley, 286Magnum cam w/1.5:1 rockers, 291 Camel Hump Heads 64cc, 3.545 rear gears.

 

For starters, My book "Chevy V8 Interchange Manual" indicates that the 291 came w/larger valves & the smaller 1.94/1.50 valves-so make sure of their size & dont just take someone's word for it.

 

Hotrod magazine did a test of the 286cam & chose the 355sbc w/iron heads(barely above stock) with 1.94/150 heads yielding 8.8:1 & an Edelbrock Performer manifold. This test yielded peak power/torque at:

 

341 hp @5000 rpm's & 394ft.lbs. @ 3500rpm's.

 

Hotrod, in another magaizine, did a test on the 280Magnum cam; the difference in spec's on your cam are as follows:

 

280H Duration @ .050/234, lift=480/480, 110LDA

286H Duration @ .050/236, lift=490/490, 110LDA

 

The 280H's performance was on a 355 9.7:1 Comp.Ratio, 750 Holley, Edelbrock Performer RPM (High Rise Dual Plane) Intake w/AFR Alluminum Cyl.Heads running 2.02/1.50 valves. Ignition was a MSD Billet Distributor triggered by a MSD-6AL box. This set up's performance yielded:

 

RPM's..Torque/HP

2500...332..160

2700...343..180

2900...350..195

3100...367..219

3300...382..240

3500...395..260

3700...397..280

3900...399..297

4100...396..308

4300...403..330 (Maximum Torque)

4500...400..340

4700...400..360

4900...400..376

5100...397..380

5300...388..390

5500...380..400

5700...375..404 (Maximum HP)

5900...357..397

6100...348..400

 

*The figures are Flywheel power/not Rear wheel power: Factor in 15/20% loss to obtain theoretical Rear Wheel power.

**This should yield you an ET=11.8 @ 114mph; not including possible wheel spin, tires & gearing your running nor how well you can trip the lights at the track. I figured your car weighed 2900lbs w/you & a full tank of gas.

 

This engine idled @850 w/12.5HG inches of vacuum while the previous engine made only 10.5HG of vacuum at 750rpms & only 13HG inches of vacuum at 1000rpm's.

 

I think the alluminum cyl.heads better indicates what your engine will do since it has a higher comp.ratio & larger valves. The alluminum will dissipate heat quicker than your iron cyl.heads.

 

Having said all that: I hope this isnt your daily driver. If you're running A/C & Power Brakes you may want to consider a Vacuum Assist Canister.

 

Or, you may want to consider another cam w/a wider LDA. Your current LDA of 110 is great for a lopey/choppy idle but low rpm vacuum suffers considerably on a street engine.

 

Comp Cam's has a line of cams for Nitrous engines. You may not be running Nitrous but one of those profiles is close to yours & has a wider LDA of 113-much better idle quality for a daily street driven car. Two profiles are relatively close to your 280H.

 

NX262H-13

Duration @ .050 218/230, Lift=462/480, 113LDA

 

NX268H-13

Duration @ .050 224/236, Lift=477/490, 113LDA

 

Hope this helps.

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 07, 2001).]

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I would suggest not using that converter.

I had a B&M 10" 2700 stall that would

flash at 4500rpm..."HATED IT"!.. I had traction problems and it was just obnoxious

to drive at anything less than 4500 rpm.

 

I put a stock unit back in the car and

it is so much nicer to drive..

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quote:

Originally posted by MYRON:

I would suggest not using that converter.

I had a B&M 10" 2700 stall that would

flash at 4500rpm..."HATED IT"!.. I had traction problems and it was just obnoxious

to drive at anything less than 4500 rpm.

 

I put a stock unit back in the car and

it is so much nicer to drive..

 

Myron,

 

I'm glad you chimed in; I thought I remembered somewhere in the past that you had a stall cvtr you were not happy with. Would hate for another V8Z enthusiast to go down that same road when he/she didnt have to.

 

Myron, when you say stock; what do you mean by stock. What was the brand name/diameter in inches(?). Also if I remember your ride has a pretty healthy cam.

 

Why are you selling your old ride & what are your expectations/predictions for your 78Z. Streetable -vs- All out Race/Eng?

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Thanks for input guys!No, this isnt gonna be

my daily driver.I want it for weekend cruz

nites and bracket racing.I know it will lope

pretty hard but thats how I like it!I will

go to trick flow 23degree heads when the cash

flow is up.Also for sure I will put a vac

can on to get the brakes up to snuff.Looks

like I will go little tighter on the converter now that I am getting these horror

storys on the stall units.I cant wait to get this thing going!!!

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