trwebb26 Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 Is it possible??? I want to use it for my megasquirt setup. I've searched for about an hour and half and I can't find a definite answer. Are there modifications required to the dizzy??? I can't figure out how to modify it to fit in the stock 280 block. Thanks! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 Yes that will work, we did the same mod to Ryan's car. You have to get the oil pump shaft from the 83 also(has a star pattern instead of slot). Drop the oil pump change shafts(probably have to drop the sway bar), remove the aluminum spacer under the NA dizzy. That should be about it. Watch the intake valve on #1 to make sure you on the compression stroke. The rotor on the NA dizzy should line up at the #1 post and then you can swap and make the rotor on the 83 line up at the #1 post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted January 24, 2006 Author Share Posted January 24, 2006 Yowsa.... that's something I didn't expect to be doing! Looking it over in the Haynes manual - it doesn't look too horribly difficult. Does the "drive shaft" that you swap out just sit inside of the pump (not permanently attached with screws or pins)??? Anything else I need to be paying attention to? Oh... and do you use the pump from the N/A motor or the turbo motor on the N/A engine? (this is probably a retarted question... but I'll ask anyways). Thanks! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 use the oil pump from the NA. IIRC, the oil pump shaft just sets in there, easy to swap. Just timing it right or you have to move your spark plug wires around the cap to match what you end up with, then that just gets confusing the next time you work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 I should probably move to a turbo oil pump soon huh... turbo might be starving.. *cough* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 when I put the turbo oil pump and shaft into my 78, I thought "no problem" untill I tried to start it, the timming was off. Be very carful to get the timming right, you will know when its wrong, and you'll know when its right. I took the dizzy off, used a scew driver, or straight edge, and mark where the pump shaft point to the dizzy hole, both sides, and mark which side the line is on (its off set) Then drop the oil pump, put the other shaft in bolt the pump with 2 bolts get up and see if it lines up....unless you have help, then your help can tell you "yes" "no" it lines up. When its there bolt up your oil pump, don't forget the gasket! bolt your dizzy, have another beer, and your done. You **DO NOT** have to drain your oil to do this. have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted January 25, 2006 Author Share Posted January 25, 2006 Don't have to drain the oil??? Doesn't the pump have to be fed oil to work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 Don't have to drain the oil??? Doesn't the pump have to be fed oil to work? can't tell you why, but I first had a 81 dizzy with CAS on block, then changed to 83 dizzy with CAS inside, I had to change the shaft, so I had a drain pan under the pump thinking oil would drain out when I took the pump off. Very very little oil came out, just the oil in the pump itself drained, so to change the shaft, you don't have to drain the oil. I guess the pump is higher than the level in the pan? Hold on, I might of had it on ramps?????????? maby thats why??????? can't remember for sure if it was on the ramps???????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted January 25, 2006 Author Share Posted January 25, 2006 Any consensus on whether you have to drain the oil??? I went to my local auto parts store to try and buy an oil pump gasket and a distributor gasket and they said they couldn't even order them. Do I have to get a whole timing cover kit to get these (2) gaskets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 buy some of that gasket sheet stuff and make youe own If you have to, not the cork sheet, get that thinner stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 I've dropped the pump on my 78 without draining the oil. A little messy but I was on gravel so cleanup was only scuffing the driveway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 I've swapped oil pumps/change dist timing over 10 times on different z cars and never had to drain the oil. I think as long as you have the front wheels off the ground you shouldn't have a problem. You will need to remove the swaybar to get to the oil pump. Maybe not if its oem but for sure if its aftermarket. It is a 30 minute job. Also if you have a haynes manual it shows the orientation the half moon is suppose to be when it is installed correctly as seen from the distributor hole. You will know what i'm talking about when you get a turbo distributor shaft. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iaconsultants Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 This would be a good time to increase your oil pressure especially if you turbo the car. You just remove the large fitting on the oil pump and go to your local hardware store and get some stainless steel washers that fit behind the spring. I believe I used two washers in the past that where somewhere around an 1/8 inch think total or just under that. This works very well and will not cause any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 What's the point of increased oil pressure if you don't increase flow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nienberg.11 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Phil, my Z was showing zero oil pressure the last time I ran it. This is almost certainly a sending unit issue, as my turbo didn't die and the engine ran fine for 10 min before I got it back home and happened to see what the oil pressure was reading. Anyways, in the unlikely event that I need to swap out my oil pump, am I to understand that you did NOT have to remove the oil pan? The only time I've seen my oil pump is when I had the pan off to add the turbo oil return. If you don't need to jack up the motor and remove the oil pan, then where does the oil pump come out from, and how do you reach it and its fasteners? Keep in mind that I'm 100 miles from my car and haven't seen it in a month or more, so I realize that this question is undoubtedly pretty dumb and has an obvious answer that I just can't visualize w/o looking at the motor. Junkman, if you increase the oil pressure on a turbo's bearings, then more oil will be forced through the bearings in a given span of time. In other words, increasing pressure will increase flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted February 17, 2006 Author Share Posted February 17, 2006 I swapped out my dizzy shaft last night for the 83 version. It was easy as pie. The hardest part was explaining to my wife what TDC was so she could help me find it while i turned the crank from under the car. Thanks everybody! Oh... and just to confirm - you don't have to drain your oil to change the shaft / oil pump. The pump will be full of oil when you remove it from the block so watch out for that. Motorsport auto sells individual gaskets for the oil pump (inexpensive). Make sure you fill up the pump with fresh oil before you bolt it to the block (like the Haynes manual says). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted February 17, 2006 Author Share Posted February 17, 2006 One more thing... You don't have to completely drop the sway bar to do the swap - you just have to remove the mounts to the frame. You can disassemble the shaft from the pump while it is in the block and take them out separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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