Wheeler Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 The proper way to remove the mustash bar bushings so that they can be replaced with urethane is to burn them out and leave the curled over sleve inplace? 1975 280z R180diff Thanks -Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 Yup. Heat the metal around the bushing and push it out with a length of pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 I'm pretty sure I left the outer metal bushing ring in place when I installed my poly-urethane mustache bar bushings. Are you sure you're supposed to remove them John? Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 Misunderstood my reply. I agreed with his statement above and the metal sleeve remains after heating and pushing out the rubber bushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Misunderstood my reply. I agreed with his statement above and the metal sleeve remains after heating and pushing out the rubber bushing. Does anyone sell just a pair of poly mustache bar bushings by themselves? I don't need a whole bushing set right now is why I am asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 http://www.springworks.com/auto-bushings-nissan-buy.html LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 Probably one of the best bits of advice I found on this forum was to use a monkey/pipe wrench to twist the bushing free after heating the bar and sleeve up with a propane torch. It pops right off and then you can cut the remainder out with a knife and sand it smooth. Note the outer metal sleeve should NOT be cut out. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted October 11, 2007 Administrators Share Posted October 11, 2007 Another simple approach, depending on where you live and how tolerant your family is to the black sooty smoke/fumes, (DON’T breathe the smoke), using the propane torch in a WELL ventilated outdoor environment, outside, away from any buildings, preferably over gravel, letting the rubber material of the bushing to burn long enough that the inner steel sleeve just “falls†out from gravity and the rest of the rubber bushing material has either fallen out as well or just needs to be lightly brushed out. Allow to cool, prep for paint, etc. etc etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoorenc Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 I did what BRAAP said and it worked great. Lots of really bad smelling black smoke though. Also don't touch the black burning rubber, DOH! It did work and after cleaning it out with a rag and some gas the energy suspension bushings went right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 After doing many sets of rear control arm bushings on 510s and then yesterday, doing the front upper and lower control arm bushings on my wife's Lexus LS400, I use a propane torch method, with the arm in a vise and heat the outside of the arm and let the thing burn it's way totally out. (a piece of cardboard on the floor and prepare to blow out drops of flaming, burning rubber) If you let it get really hot and burn itself out, the rubber is then dry and crumbles away. Then use a piece of emery clothe, you can quickly & easily just clean up the surface for the new bushing. If you just get it hot enough to push it out, there is much more clean up work and that melted, slimy rubber is nasty. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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