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My new L6


Guest MistressMotorsports

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Guest MistressMotorsports

Just put the finishing touches on my 3.0 L6. Specs are E88 block, N42 head, triple Web 45's (needs 48's.) The engine was built by The Engine Connection (also called House of Cobras) in Anaheim, Ca. They usually do V8's, but this is their second Datsun motor, first L6. The other motor was a stroker L4 for a 510. Using an 18% loss factor, I should be at about 305 hp at the crank. Chassis Dyno attached. Spark is still not optimized (we had too much low octane gas in the tank to really go nuts), so there's maybe another 5-7 hp left. The lower pass was with my first swag for jetting, a bit rich. The better pass was after using the exhaust gas analyzer to optimize.

 

Mike

 

datsundyno.jpg

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Guest MistressMotorsports

A little of both. We were doing pulls from 4 to 7k so there is that, but the car does go very rich right at tip in, so I need to keep working on it. I didn't have the right parts to tune the accelerator function on the Webers, so that will be another round. It's good enough to get me on the track this weekend, I'll tune more at the track and after.

 

Mike

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That looks very nice indeed! I've got a F54 and N42 setup I plan to do a budget rebuild on, and am hoping for 235ish RWHP, but it has to be streetable with my 3.90 gears. Is it possible to get head flow specs, and the cam your running?

 

I'm thinking of going with a 270/280 (seat to seat) cam. If I had more accurate data I could put something together in EA but I'm mostly just making guesses, and being lazy smile.gif I've got dual 32/36 Weber Downdrafts so I dont know that if that will really hurt me compared to your numbers, and how much so.

 

Was there an E88 block, or is that a typo? I only know it as a head...

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Fricking EXCELLENT, man! I see you have the same midrange bog as I do, mine is accompanied by a BIG dip in the A/F curve (goes way rich between 4000 and 5000. I've got 45mm OER Racing carbs (formerly SK). You've got WAY more torque than me, what's your CR? Here's my curve. I've since cured the leaning out at higher rpm and gained ~5 lb-ft from 4500 to redline, but that run was on a cold day (SAE factor 0.96) at a different dyno, and gave 199lb-ft and 233hp max.

showphoto.php?photo=2274&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500

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Guest MistressMotorsports

Gotta be honest, I don't know the head flow specs or the cam specs, it was all done by the engine shop. I know they generated their own cam profile and asked Isky to grind it, so it's not an off the shelf piece. They told me to adjust the valves every now and then, change the oil every race weekend, and index the plugs. Otherwise I'm supposed to shut up and drive. Compression is 13:1, so it's strictly for racing. The pistons were also custom. This was definitely not a budget stroker, although it didn't break the bank either. Object with this combo is to embarrass the 911's on the vintage race circuit. The Porsche guys run big motors, too, mostly 2.7's. I'll usually be running with HSR-West, TCRA, and a little VARA on the west coast. HSR-West at Phoenix this weekend will be the first test. Hopefully I answered everyone's questions.

 

Mike

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Originally posted by Dan Baldwin:

grrr. Anybody actually see my dyno run? Anyway, it's here: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2274&papass=&sort=1&thecat=5 00

Dan, I saw your sheet and printed it out awhile back.

 

Originally posted by LEN168:

235hp is not a budget straight six NA, but it is a budget turbo motor :D

Damnit, I didn't want to believe that, but 13.0:1 is not street no doubt about it. I know a local guy that made 287 crank HP with his 3.0L, I'll have to pick his brain about setup, but his cam isn't all that big so that leads me to believe you can make good HP with the engine with the right heads.
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Those are some pretty decent #'s.

 

I like seeing others build monster N/A motors as well. Nothing like the skill needed to get 100hp per litre from an N/A!

 

I too had a killer N/A engine. Not cheap either almost $12K including everything. I was pushing 300hp from a 2.9L with 10.5:1 compression. ran it with 94 octane and occasionally with some octane booster on track days in the summer with up to 40 degrees of ign advance.

 

The secret in the engines is all in the cyl heads.

 

I'd like to talk to a few of you guys about jetting with your carbs. I have found that most guys are over carbed. I don't know who is recommending all these huge carbs for our cars. I usually hear about that you should not run anything smaller than a 45mm DCOE! its absolutely bullsh*t for anything other than a full tilt gt race car.

 

I have tried several different main venturi sizes in 40 and 45mm Webers, and got some decent learnings in jetting for our z's.

 

Anyways I'd love to chat about your bogging problems. I may even be able to help you out.

 

I had someone help me work out the cfm of my carbs (40mm doces) I can't recall off the top of my head the size of venturis we did this excersice with... but anyways, it worked out to almost 1100cfm.

 

Just some food for thought.

Thanks,

Scott.

aka retired "Weber Warrior" now a boostaholic.

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Guest MistressMotorsports

Marcos, I also work in Irvine, we definitely need to hook up. I'll get in touch with you when I get back from Phoenix.

 

Scott, as I am a total newbie with Webers, I would welcome any advice on the bog or anything else. You do have a point on cfm. I was discussing my carb setup with my brother. I have six 45mm butterflies (40mm venturies - maybe part of the bog?) feeding 3.0 liters. He has a 6 liter 500 hp Camaro that runs off two 52mm butterflies. So, you are obviously correct, it's not air capacity that we're worried about. The reason I think I need bigger carbs is twofold, neither reason being scientifically sound and definitely subject to slamming by anyone. First is that the Weber book says so. Second is the giant size of the jets needed to keep the car rich enough at extended WOT. Like I said, not scientific, so please blast away, I could use the advice.

 

Oh yeah, here's a pic of the car. datsun2b.jpg

 

Mike

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Mike,

 

I have a book that I got from Piercemanifolds called - Weber, Guide to Parts and Tuning that I found very helpful with learning and tuning my webers.

Maybe call them and see if it`s still avalible(I`ve had mine 4 about 12 years). They are good folks, even if this book is not avalible they should be able to hook you up with another.

 

Very nice looking car, good luck with the carbs and the racing!

 

Would love to see pics of the car, inside and out.

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Guest MistressMotorsports

A spoiler? How 'bout a big wing and a front splitter? Maybe not for the vintage groups, but for TCRA anything goes. Actually, there will be a BRE style spoiler on in the near future, which is all I can run in vintage. My front air dam is even a little questionable, but no one has complained yet. I think there are enough ITS Z cars that show up for vintage races that they just let them run with the IT legal pieces.

 

Mike

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Originally posted by ZR8ED:

I too had a killer N/A engine. Not cheap either almost $12K including everything. I was pushing 300hp from a 2.9L with 10.5:1 compression. ran it with 94 octane and occasionally with some octane booster on track days in the summer with up to 40 degrees of ign advance.

All I can get in my area is SUPPOSEDLY 92, or 100, or jet fuel (116?) but I plan to build a street car so 91/92 and maybe tolulene for track days is the plan.

 

The secret in the engines is all in the cyl heads.
Now were getting somewhere, there is about maybe 10-20% that many head porters never reach unless you pay alot extra, or go with the right 'guy'. So I plan to try and get out as much as I can from my N42, minus welding probably.

 

Dont know if I will build a custom manifold, or even eventually go FI, but for now I have dual downdrafts.

 

Oh, I'm in NorCal but am about 2 hours from ButtonWillow and would love to hit that track someday! I think it may be doable this year.

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I know everyone in these types of classes has used webbers for all out power. It would be intresting to see the same engine with a Tec-II and individual throttle bodies. Typically carbs are about equal on top-end, but for mid range and tip in throttle are EFI is far superior and would not have that huge dip. Added benifits are excellent temp compensation, adjustable igntion map, increased mileage. You could even do up a second set of maps to allow pump gas mabey??

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