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Finished Product!


zguy36

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Well, it's all done. This ended up being a much more compact design that I had originally intended, but it will be nice to have a near stock location of the turbo. Forgive the welds, they are ugly but damn strong. This is was my first time tig welding.100_0960.jpg

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I haven't yet decided which turbo I am going with, but I am leaning towards a GT40, maybe one that arizonaZ is selling. No additional bracing should be required. The tubing is sch10 weld els, which means a wall thickness of .109" That many tubes all welded to 1/2" thick flanges makes for one beefy piece of tube. Since it is all so thick, the weight savings weren't huge, but I am guessing 25% lighter.

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2.7mm isn't that thick. Brace it anyway. Remember this thing has to get RED hot and at that sort of temperature its more prone to cracking than otherwise. Nice paint, pity it'll be gone the 1st track day you get to. ;)

 

All in all, a bloody good effort. Wish I had a tig to play with, and any talent at welding would be nice too.

 

Dave

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2.7mm isn't thick? This is nearly twice as thick at most exhaust material. This thing is pretty beefy and won't need any bracing. When I welded it, the tubes warped away from the ports pretty badly. I had to heat the tubing with a torch to get them to move back.... and I still had to beat te piss out of it with a hammer to even get it to move.

 

I am going to ceramic coat it with the stuff that www.techlinecoatings.com sells. I have used some of their products before and seem to be pretty pleased with them. Paint wouldn't even last till I got to the track :flamedevi As for building one of these again, I don't know if anyone has enough money for that, it has been a real pain in the ***. :shock:

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Most exhaust material isn't suspending 10lb+ of turbocharger. Most guys here abouts use mild (different kettle of fish I know) steam pipe which is 4mm thick and they still crack them.

 

Be interested to see if the ceramic coating lasts. Just doing that for appearance? Or for thermal insulation/reduced lag etc?

 

Dave

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Guest 73Turbo240z
Most exhaust material isn't suspending 10lb+ of turbocharger. Most guys here abouts use mild (different kettle of fish I know) steam pipe which is 4mm thick and they still crack them.

 

Be interested to see if the ceramic coating lasts. Just doing that for appearance? Or for thermal insulation/reduced lag etc?

 

Dave

 

I think your being conservative... i'd wager my holset weighs in around 25-30 lbs.

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Do you think this will be adequate bracing?bracing.jpg

 

I am still very skeptical of needing bracing for this manifold. The distance from the turbo to the head is very short making a very small moment on the welds. All of the welds penetrated very deeply into the material (you can see how wide the welds are). I am following a material example of my buddy who built manifold for his rx-7. His turbo sits twice the distance away from the engine as mine and only has two runners. The turbo hanging off of this is a 60-1 with a P trim compressor, just a tad smaller than the GT40 dimensions. He has been running it for over a year with no problems. Oh, and should I add that his EGTs are outrageous. At the end of the quarter mile, the egt's are 1750F, and just crusing on the interstate they are 1500F. In other words, there is very little time when the manifold isn't glowing!

 

The idea with the ceramic coating is to reduce underhood heat and hopefully reduce spool time. I want to go with a large turbo, but don't want to wait forever and a day for it to spool up. This is why I am going with the twin scroll setup and will be blocking off half of the turbo during spoolup.

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Guest 73Turbo240z

honestly i think you looking at it too complicated, there are only really 2 forces that i'd be worried about, and those forces are thermal expansion/compression, and gravity, that being said, i'd say 90% of your movement concearns need to be on the X axis, and with the proposed I-beam looking solution up there, that is way overkill.

 

just put a simple little flange/tab on the base of the collector area, and then another flange either on the block near the oil pan or on the frame rail, then metal bar, say 1/4" diameter, thread each end and install hiem joints, now you'd have a removeable, and adjustable brace, that you could dial in for the perfect amount of X-axis resistance.

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