Lvcien Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 Saw this ad: Forged pistons and a mild cam. Heads and Intake were taken off the car today, they are GM 1.94 valve Vortec Iron heads, with matching Performer RPM intake. Has Late Model Centerbolt style valve covers(stock height). Was looking to get 1000 OBO for the setup. I will keep the stock oil pan and Carb. but rest will go. Was running when in my blazer, lookin to invest this in my other motor being built. So basically, you can see what ur getting, and you just need head gaskets and intake gaskets to put the motor back together. Engine with 4:30 gears 3600 stall and 700R4 Transmission I'm waiting for a reply, if it's good I'll purchase it -- but the thing it, I didn't know there was a 355ci made... I thought the only three's were the 327, 350 from Chevy (I don't believe they produced a 383 (that's a 350 w/a 400 crankshaft?) Sorry, don't know too much about v8's in general. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 a 355 is a 350 that has been bored out .030 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted February 20, 2006 Author Share Posted February 20, 2006 I figured it was something like that.... thanks for the quick reply -- so with the 400 crankshaft, it would be a 388? ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 Nope a 383 is a .030 over 350 block with a 3.75" (400 stroke) crank. A standard bore 350 block with a 3.75" crank is 377. Here is a calculator to see where Im getting all this from. 350 stock bore is 4" with a 3.48" stroke. 383 is a 4.030 bore with a 3.75" stroke. http://www.itpapulling.com/ci_calc.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted February 20, 2006 Author Share Posted February 20, 2006 Oh, Great! even better -- I'd eventually like a 383, so all I'd have to do is add the crank.... perfect.. Thanks again.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted February 20, 2006 Author Share Posted February 20, 2006 This is the reply I got from the guy. Sorry if I was confusing, I was just stating that with the gears and my transmission what the engine ran, to give everyone an approximate estimate on the horsepower. Those parts were never for sell. As for the 355. It is a 350 bored .030 over. It has forged pistons. It is in "shortblock" status now. the bottom end is all together. Oil pan is off. Timing chain cover is off. Camshaft is out. But they will be included. I sold the heads/rocker arms/valve covers/intake today. Very low mileage shortblock. Only run less than 500 miles total with no problems. Only reason taken out is for a bigger motor. Engine code is 3970010. It is a 2 bolt main, however it has been studded with ARP studs for super strength(good as or "even better") than a 4 bolt. The crank and rods have been completely balanced to handle high rpm. For it to run, you would need new gaskets, heads, intake and carb. I will sell all that stuff mentioned for 650. Call me sometime tomorrow if possible. I looked up area code 33922 and that says Bokeelia. That is way south of me. I am in the Tampa Bay area. This is an excellent deal on a practically new shortblock that is worth a solid 800 bucks. So I would hope you could come to pick it up, however we could possibly meet somewhere to help you out. Call to make arrangements or for more info. Make sure to reference the 355 motor. Thanks. Keep in mind I'm just looking to make it run, not biuld it yet -- How much would the new gaskets, heads, intake and carb cost me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 Do yourself a favour and just buy a crate motor. No offence meant, but you obviously have very little experience with such things and you will be better off with a tried and true unit with a warranty. Try the following: http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/63/Crate-Engines.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 Come on man do some research before posting questions like that! The kind of response your going to get to a question like that arent going to be what your looking for anyways. You could spend.... $70 for an upper engine gasket kit(head gaskets and intake gaksets) $0 for heads if someone just wants to get rid of them $0 for an intake if someone just wants to get rid of it $2000 for a good set of alluminim / high flowing heads with big valves $3-500 for a good alluminum intake. It all depens on what your going for right now. Do you want it to just run? OR Do you want to buy good parts now and then have an awesome motor. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted February 20, 2006 Author Share Posted February 20, 2006 Thanks for the suggestions I'm not looking to purchase a crate motor -- too much $$ that I don't have right now. A buddy of mine who actually knows what he's doing will be doing much of the mechanic work -- he works for a local chevy stealership (or telling me what to do) -- gotta learn somehow I'll search lots tonight when I have more time (when I get home) -- I'm at work right now, so I'm checking back and forth -- I've got a pretty good understanding of the L-Series engines from the tons of research I did for a project like that ($$$$$). Right now I'm just trying to get an engine in & get the car running as per Mikelly's suggestion here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107777 I can figure out a great biuld after it's up and running... and that's when I'll really bug ya with the questions.. heh. Thanks alot for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 $2000 for a good set of alluminim / high flowing heads with big valves $3-500 for a good alluminum intake. WOW, where do you shop? Heck man, a set of victor jr. heads for a smallblock are only a lil more than $1200 and those are some HUGE heads for the street. And most intakes youll find on the street on sbc's are only > $250. Im just tired of constantly hearing the "search" comment on this site. Id rather throw some good info at the kid and give him some info than to tell him to search for it like 98% of the threads on this site get. Lvcien, I would skip that shortblock for $1k and work on finding yourself a near stock 350 for now and then add mods like heads, intake and cam after its running. You can usually find a near stock good running 350 for less than $1000 and it may already have some things done to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 WOW' date=' where do you shop? Heck man, a set of victor jr. heads for a smallblock are only a lil more than $1200 and those are some HUGE heads for the street. And most intakes youll find on the street on sbc's are only > $250. Im just tired of constantly hearing the "search" comment on this site. Id rather throw some good info at the kid and give him some info than to tell him to search for it like 98% of the threads on this site get.[/quote'] I was just trying to say that with a general question like that your going to get general answers. You've been here less than a month and your sick of seeing the "search" comment? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 I was just trying to say that with a general question like that your going to get general answers. You've been here less than a month and your sick of seeing the "search" comment? Guy Yep, because I have read well over 500 threads on this board and 95% start with "search for your answer". Im a member of over 20 automotive boards and have never seen it this bad. I condone doing a search but even simple answers are often shot down and threads locked without a answer as simple as "the gap of the plugs needs to be X.XX"". Of course I made that up but Im sure you will get the idea. Now that being said, I have found an answer for almost any question I have had by using the search function but the problem is the threads are so old that the pics, links, etc are now bad links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Lason, I guess that most folks in this site, probably have had several projects before coming here. I'm not a mechanic nor do I even want to be , but I work on my own cars , and I've had quite a few. I guess what I'm trying to say is that we tend to be a little more critical on new members because we've been" around the block" a few times. It's NOT a personal thing.It's just that if your going to do a engine swap of any kind, you got to know the basics before you can attempt to do this kind of thing. Again nothing personal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Lason, I guess that most folks in this site, probably have had several projects before coming here. I'm not a mechanic nor do I even want to be , but I work on my own cars , and I've had quite a few. I guess what I'm trying to say is that we tend to be a little more critical on new members because we've been" around the block" a few times. It's NOT a personal thing.It's just that if your going to do a engine swap of any kind, you got to know the basics before you can attempt to do this kind of thing. Again nothing personal. No offense taken at all and coming from someone that used to drag race a '83 shortbed S10 with a small block and also being ASE certified I can say I know a thing or two about spinning wrenches and motor swaps. Also another board Im on is a local mustang board and we have members with exotic powered drag cars throwing 1200+ horsepower around so I am used to boards with expirienced people. But there will always be noobs to the mechanic world, if not then this hobby would be dead quick. Like I said above, I dont mind telling people to search but locking threads and ridiculing people because they needed a quick answer or maybe just a "up to date" answer is something that gets on my nerves about this place. I know, I know, If I dont like it then leave. I just thought I would throw my 2 cents out there since apperantlty no one else has. The owners of this board can continue to run it any way they feel fit and thats fine but if you rely on old threads with bad links and outdated info for your information then I dont see it lasting in the long run. Anyway just my $.02 and now Ill go back to my searching and digging. Holla! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A. G. Olphart Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Now that being said, I have found an answer for almost any question I have had by using the search function but the problem is the threads are so old that the pics, links, etc are now bad links. I agree that dead links and missing pictures can be a problem, but board members here try hard to help those making an honest attempt to help themselves: If a person quotes such a thread and asks a related question, chances are it will be answered politely, accurately, and with care. / Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Yep, because I have read well over 500 threads on this board and 95% start with "search for your answer". Shhh... don't get Them Riled Up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 To late... And Uh Tony, after re-reading that thread you linked above, I'd tread lightly... REAL Lightly... Man, I posted a long response to this yesterday and it is gone... That sux... Damned server died... Oh well... Lvcien, Here's an honest answer to your dilema... DON'T spend A DIME. You aren't ready my friend. You personally don't have the skills right now to take a questionable pile of parts and make a decent engine out of them. Furthermore, you lack the ability to identify good SBC parts for a combo, over bad SBC parts. That isn't a knock on you, it's honesty. Look, you've commented that you're on a budget. The last thing you want to do is spend your money, get this shortblock and find out you're out some cash on some parts that you can't use. Search for threads by Grumpyvette and hit those links he always has, and book mark them. Read, read, read those links and the data, and then come back and ask more questions... You really need to educate yourself on the buildup much more before you dive in. I say this only because you have a tight budget, and if you blow your wad of cash, you're dead in the water... Measure twice and cut once is the old carpenter's advice to the young "helper"... Here, it's research all your options, plan the build out accordingly, spend time on paper with pen and calculator, and then do it all again. Trying to save you a LOT of grief man! Oh, and yea, all of you... :search: :lmao: Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted February 21, 2006 Author Share Posted February 21, 2006 Will do Looking at an '88 Camaro IROC -- with a 5.7L 350ci, 700r4 with 3.55 gears, still in the car and running -- $1,500 (I get the whole car) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 That would be a MUCH better way to go. Scavange all the parts you need and then sell the rest. You might break even in the long run! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 yeah thats a good deal on a iroc. Take out the drivetrain and sell the rolling body for 500-750 depending on the shape its in and your good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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