Guest Anonymous Posted April 27, 2000 Share Posted April 27, 2000 If a (good) 4 point rollbar mounts to the four strut towers (having trouble envisioning this) then where else does a 6 point mount to? Assuming it's some arbitrary point in the body, here's a rust deterrent question as well: When you make new holes to bolt things onto the body, how do you treat the holes to keep rust from appearing on the new bare edges? Just hand paint em? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted April 27, 2000 Share Posted April 27, 2000 check out Autopower if you are looking for a bolt in. Also check www.ioportracing.com or i/oportracing.com.. I cant remember which, but check them out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 27, 2000 Share Posted April 27, 2000 A four point bar mounts two feet per side behind the driver on the rear wheel wells. This provides nothing more than a "Hoop" over the head. Now, a 6 point bar moves two more points forward ofthe driver, sometimes in a "Overhead" hoop, and sometimes just in a low "Side running" footer that extend forward with no front hoop. These lower side running footers are more for drag applications. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted April 27, 2000 Share Posted April 27, 2000 I have an SCCA-approved 4-pt bolt-in rollbar like Mike described. The hoop is bolted to the wheelwells and 2 bars extend toward the rear and are bolted in just in front of the spare tire well. I asked the local track what I needed to do to be approved to run high-10s and this is what I was told. I need a 6-pt cage and the 4 bolt-in points have to be welded in with larger plates and I have to add the sidebars as Mike described. The height of the sidebars must be between the shoulder and elbow and welded in at a point slightly forward of the door. I intend to put a swing-out on the driver's side for ease of entry/egress. I expect such a configuration to add stiffness but the torque in our engines still need frame rail upgrades. Scottie ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://members.xoom.com/Turbo240Z/scotties240zt.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 27, 2000 Share Posted April 27, 2000 Scottie, when you say frame rail upgrades, do you mean bolt ons, complete weld in replacements, or weld in additions? knowwhutimean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 27, 2000 Share Posted April 27, 2000 Most of us have upgraded to weld in units, cutting out the existing stamped weld units that came in the car. Go to Pete's webpage in the links category to see a good example of a well done subframe install! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 27, 2000 Share Posted April 27, 2000 pete who? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 28, 2000 Share Posted April 28, 2000 Pete Paraska (Moderator at large) has a web page in the Links department that shows very good example of how to do subframes. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 28, 2000 Share Posted April 28, 2000 Mike, I'm blushing. Thanks for the compliment! The link to see my subframe connectors is http://www.tidalwave.net/~pparaska/structuralmods.htm Cheers, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.