zliminator Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 I have adj cams on the front and rear a-frame bushings on the rear wheels. The tires were (cambered or castered? I don't know which) out too much so that the top of the tire is closer to the car than the bottom and they were wearing on the inside. So I adjusted them and they are still not right. I have a LSD out of a 300ZX in a 240 and I'm wondering if possibly it is shorter or I need longer 1/2 shafts or maybe I could put some adapter plates on it to change the geometry of the wheel. Has anyone had this experience? I can take some pics and post them if need be. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 No shafts or adapters to them will change the camber. To get more camber, without buying parts, is to elongate the top 3 holes that hold up the struts. Or you can buy camber/caster strut mounts from betamotorsports or DP products or modern motorsports. http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/index.html http://www.designproductsracing.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=513 http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php. Then you can adjust to your lifes content. Enjoy:icon44: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcelectronics Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 What type of Rear sub frame are you running? What type or lower control arms are you running? Do you have pictures? How low is it? How many degrees of -CAMBER are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 Drive faster around corners. This will even out your tire wear. In all honesty, you really do want some negative camber on the front and the back. If you have too much and you can't adjust it out with the adjustable bushings, then yeah, fastzcars is correct that camber plates or adjustable control arms will help. I really don't like the idea of adjusting a LOT of camber with a control arm, especially if you only have this problem on one side of the car. If you have -2 degrees on the left side and 0 on the right, and you want to get them both to 0, then you have to shorten the left side by probably 3/4". That's not too terrible sounding until you consider how close the halfshafts or CV's are to binding at the stock length. Above and beyond that, the LR wheel now doesn't sit in line with the LF wheel. Again that might not make a huge difference, but it could be something that makes the car handle differently in left or right hand turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zliminator Posted April 21, 2006 Author Share Posted April 21, 2006 I have coil overs that can be adjusted not only up and down but I can adjust the camber by loosening the bolt on top of the coil at the tower. The adjustable cams on the bushings are to adjust the toe-in and toe-out. Sorry if I wasted your time. Thanks. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 WHA??? The adjustable cams on the control arm bushings control camber and toe. Never seen a coilover that adjusts camber. REALLY never seen anything that you have to loosen the nut on the strut to adjust for anything at all (and that sounds like a really bad idea). Camber plates adjust at the top, usually 2 or 4 small screws which you loosen then you can slide the top of the strut in or out to increase or lessen the neg camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zliminator Posted April 23, 2006 Author Share Posted April 23, 2006 I just don't have a grasp on the terminology yet. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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