Guest 1972_240z Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 what up guys, just bought a new home shop lincoln mig and i must say, real fun. I have taken a couple pictures of my rear end. I cut the wheel well out where the spare was and also cut the bottom of the rear bumper cover because of several banged out dents and minimal rust. I decided to weld a new one on. I was wondering what suggestions you might have for the lower bumper cover. The lights, i am making a custom panel for 6.5" long LED's , so i need help on the bottom. Any suggestions ? Here are a couple pictures ... you can see my welder in the pic... Here is a closeup any help would be great guys. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1972_240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 ttt anyone ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 new name, anyone got any good pointers ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Congrats on the new welder. It looks like you're not wasting any time jumping in to a new welding project. If you're plannin on replacing the lower valnce portion of the rear end, I would highly recommend getting the piece from Charlie at ZedFindings. I got that piece from him and it is a beautiful OEM quality piece. I'm not sure but it sounds like you might be wanting to replace the entire rear (from the hatch striker to the lower valance)...? If that's the case, you might want to look at Tim240z's web site as he did this on his old Z. You will need a large piece of sheetmetal (around 18 guage). Cut it to shape, and insert your taillight design. Easier said than done! Keep us posted on your progress. Remeber to tack weld on body panel to avoid heat warpage. have fun and goodluck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 hey jaime, thanks for the help. so u suggest just tack welding instead of laying down beeds ??? i did notice, when i was take welding, it didn't blow through as much. if so, how far apart should take welds be ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Well I'm no expert but I've had good luck tacking 1" apart. I would recommend prepping 2 or 3 different areas to weld, that way you could alternate tacking 2 or 3 different pieces. This will allow each piece plenty of time to cool in between welding. I've heard of many people being able to lay mig beads on body panels. I guess it would take some practice and moving the gun quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TegRacer324 Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 So what'd you do tack weld the whole thing until it's filled in or just leave the seperate tacks and use filler and buddy putty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 So what'd you do tack weld the whole thing until it's filled in or just leave the seperate tacks and use filler and buddy putty? please be a little more specefic ??? you lost me in that sentence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 To specify, you lay row of tack 1 inch apart, then you lay another row of tacks in between the row of tacks you just previously layed. Kinda tedious, but since you took welding class, you would know why you weld body work in this fashon. Remember to spot weld 1 inch apart for every row you layed down. Once you are done, it should look like you layed a single bead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Pics of the 1000 spot welds method on this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102470 The point of doing it this way is it doesn't warp the metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 got ya, thanks for the link. and ak-z, thanks for the clarrification Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TegRacer324 Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Yeah I realized it was to help stop warpage. I figured it was to reduce blowing through it too. Like I've said I took a class, but unfortunately it was kinda geared toward industrial stuff like 1/4" steel plating with a stick welder. Thanks for clearing that up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Yeah I realized it was to help stop warpage. I figured it was to reduce blowing through it too. Like I've said I took a class, but unfortunately it was kinda geared toward industrial stuff like 1/4" steel plating with a stick welder. Thanks for clearing that up though. So you took the SMAW class. You can tell how much metal would bend with welding heat them thats why you tamper the space between the plates when you butt joint it (doing 1/8" or thinner with Stick). The blow through isn't really th problem when spot welding, its the heat (heat=warpage) blow through would mean you have too much heat, and/or holding it there for too long, which is also too much heat. You want the most heat in the smallest area for the shortest amount of time. Fast and Hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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