ZDrifter Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 Alright guys i have made a lot of progress so here it is... Tranny problem has been taken care of. I found the easiest way to mount it is to use the stock l28 tranny mount and custom make ears to fit each point in the transmission tunnel, drill holes in the ears bolt them onto the mount and put them up to the tunnel and tack them in. I wish i would have just done this from the start it is by far easier then making a new mount and all that stuff. With that taken care of I am having my driveline made and hopefully will be done monday so I can fit it and hopefully not have to go back to the driveline shop if they screw up. After about 6 hours of work today with wiring and putting oil in the motor it is running. A lot of the stuff is jimmy rigged together just because i wanted to hear it run before my warranty runs out. Definitly sounds good no knocking or anything of the sort so I am releaved. I will try to get pictures up for all of you guys tomorrow as i plan on hooking up heater hoses and tiding up some vaccum lines and fuel lines. I also ordered my Walbro today and should be here middle of this coming week. After that it is getting all the wires nice and then getting intercooler, piping and exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotimport Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Pretty Nice!!! You moving along pretty fast in youre swap. How long did it allready took you to put everything together as it is right now. Good luck on all the piping!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 I got the motor around the middle of June and it took my friend and I a weekend to get the motor mounted. The tranny mount took about a week for me to finally figure it out. And yesterday I just got 3" stainless for my exhaust, 2 elbows for my intercooler, and i have 8 feet of 2.5" stainless for the rest of my intercooler piping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 hey could you do me a favor? for the trans mount, I'm going to do it this way as well using the Z trans mount and making new ears welded to a backing plate. I'm assuming that the drivers side mounting plate with the ears mounts further back in the tranny tunnel since you described perfectly how the drivers side slopes away. Could you measure how far back from the spot where the old ears that were cut out that the new mount goes? and also measure how long approximately the new ears are to get out to the tranny mount? This would save me a lot of the time that you already spent when I go to make this, probably this weekend. Basically I would like the measurement from where the stock ear ended back to where the new ear/plate starts and approx the length of the new ears from the plate to the mount. Thanks in advance Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 I actually got the tranny finally totally welded in today. I will measure this for you but you have to think about where your motor sits, because if it sits more forward than mine ( cant get much further back then mine) then this wont work. So i will measure that for you tomorrow but just keep that in mind for when you make mounts. I suggest putting the motor and tranny in the car, if you already have the motor mounts made then stick the motor in there bolt it in and put a jack under your tranny. This allows you to jack it up to the exact point where you want it (height and side to side) After you have it where you want it, measure your width between bolts on the rb tranny and then drill your holes in the Z tranny mount. When you have that done bolt your mount on, then use cardboard to make stensels for your mounts. Make one for each mount, 3 of mine ended up being the same and the other had a rounded side for the tranny tunnel to fit in that part that slopes away. After you have them made bolt them onto the mount and tack them onto the tranny tunnel. Remember that the tranny will sink in the mount when you take the jack out so try to compensate for that so you tranny is as level with the rear end as possible, this is important since it will ultimatly put less stress on your drive line. After you have them tacked in then weld away, have atleast two people for this because the tranny tunnel is very thin to weld on so you have to go slow and watch for fire, make sure you pull your carpet away from it and the paint on the interior will bubble and catch on fire if you burn through the tranny tunnel. Just take your time so you dont burn through and use water to quench it. Now that this is said you can understand why i cant give you my measurement unless you used my mounts. But if your confident that your motor is the same placement as mine then i will still give you the measurement. Sounds like you are using mounting plates which is what i was going to do, welding a plate flat to the tranny tunnel then the ears onto that, but plates wont lay flat in the tunnel so its useless, already tried that route haha like i said before i found it best to make stensels for each ear in the tranny tunnel and it turned out that 3 of them were the same and the other more rounded. I will take pictures for you tomorrow and take measurements to help you out, i kno that a lot of 280 guys need this info so whatever you guys need to know ask away and i will help you out the best i can. For new info that i have.....I recieved my intercooler today...drool... i bought it off of ebay from just-intercoolers, they actually have a intercooler sized for a 280z also fits mustang and 300zx. Its made with the inlet and outlet on the right side so you dont have to run the intercooler pipe across infront of the motor if you are using the stock intake. I will be mounting that tomorrow along with fitting pipe. After that it goes into the shop for the exhaust and then I can start driving it while i complete more things on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 I plan on doing it like you describe, I want the plates in there to add extra strength where the ears weld to the tunnel. My friend is getting a new carpet kit so the old stuff will be pulled out and I'll use dry ice to freeze the tar on the inside of the car to shatter it and remove it, I'll still have someone inside the car with the squirt bottle. I'm using a set of the Brad B mounts so engine placement should be close to what you have, since most people are fabbing there own mounts there will be a lot of variance, so I still want the measurements just to get a rough idea how big to make the ears in advance so I don't spend a bunch of time crawling under and out from under the car, if that makes sense. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 Alright so I have a ruff measurement for you. From the original rear mount to the new front tranny mount its around a inch and a half. I put a picture up for you to give you an idea of what i did. Today I will be sprayin all the welds with spray paint to protect from rust, mounting the intercooler and hopefully getting some measurements for pipe. I orderd a Walbro off of ebay but it hasnt arrived yet so im not to happy about that or I would be putting in my new fuel lines, fuel filter, etc. Does anyone have any advice for the coolant lines, its kind of a mess from what i have looked at so far but if i could get some direction that'd be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 Car is officially in for exhaust and intercooler work hope to get it back by end of next week. pics to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 I plan on doing it like you describe' date=' I want the plates in there to add extra strength where the ears weld to the tunnel. My friend is getting a new carpet kit so the old stuff will be pulled out and I'll use dry ice to freeze the tar on the inside of the car to shatter it and remove it, I'll still have someone inside the car with the squirt bottle. I'm using a set of the Brad B mounts so engine placement should be close to what you have, since most people are fabbing there own mounts there will be a lot of variance, so I still want the measurements just to get a rough idea how big to make the ears in advance so I don't spend a bunch of time crawling under and out from under the car, if that makes sense. Chris Rummel[/quote'] Man Chris, I've been seriously busy... I just realized I have some time this weekend, I'll give you a call today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 New Pics check em out tell me what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 I was actually driving it around all today and its running but really really rich. Likes to backfire and putter a lot and it doesnt want to build very much boost because of that. It seems to run better as I drive it more but still it runs rich so I am thinking definitly a air leak somewhere. But 3" from the turbo back sounds great!!! Hope to get some videos up for you guys soon. I got her to build a little bit of boost and she just took off I couldnt beleive it. but my friends like the 3 foot flame shootin out the back, hopefully I can get her running smooth here so I can see what she can really do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted August 29, 2006 Author Share Posted August 29, 2006 Alright got my problems solved thanks to Garage 112 in portland. I got a fuel pressure regulator from them and they tuned it in and set my timing and the car is running amazing. Now its on to start with gauges. I have searched for info on the tach and found some saying that you might get a signal without the tach adapter and I have read that you need the tach adapter, so could anyone give me a firm answer?? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 I believe the Autometers are adaptable for various signals, I know the speedo from them uses either a hall effect (square wave) or stock senders using a sine wave. My friend just ordered both for his car so we'll see how it goes. How did you do your voltage regulator bypass? because that is where I am now. my wires going up to the regulator only had 5 wires so I'm going to run a signal out from the hot when on for that one. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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