DavyZ Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Don, Good to see you posting, man! Your new shop looks great! How many sq ft is it? Still on the same piece of property, right? Looks like a lot of room to store the Nova, Z and just about everything else. Have you driven over the epoxy yet with something heavy? Hopefully it won't lift, but it shouldn't since it is industrial grade. I bought either Rustoleum(?) or Valspar(?) garage floor paint from Lowe's, but can't put it on until end of summer. I'm wondering if I shouldn't have purchased something like what you did... Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanzo57 Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Davy, The shop is 50' x 100' x 12' . I'm still at the same property, in Gilroy. I can harldy wait to get signed off by the county so I can move in. Should be done by the end of this month. I'm sure the epoxy will hold up to car tires, floor jacks, fuel spills, etc. I used a similar product, from the same company, on my garage floor about 10 years ago. It's held up to all of the above abuses. This product is supposed to be "new and improved". The company is about 10 miles from your house, in Hayward. They used to be in San Jose 10 years ago. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8wannabe2 Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 Check the flooring section on this link, lotsa good info. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted October 15, 2006 Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2006 When I built my 30’x60’x14’ shop a few years back, I used a very expensive two part Epoxy, ($1700 for enough to cover 1800 square feet, two coats). Each case comes with 2 gallons of “part a” and one gallon of “part b”. The concrete company that poured my slab researched and found this stuff and told me I couldn’t get any higher quality floor covering designed for use in a machine shop, repair shop environment. http://www.conspecmkt.com/products/epoxy_coatings.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_3000&L2=L2_3080&SKU=90011 Granted I havent personally tried it, but Richard's stuff is always top notch. He says they poured brake fluid on it and the paint wouldnt even bubble after a week! Definitely go with an industrial coating over something you can buy at the local hardware store. You get your money's worth. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT280z Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 If anyone still has any interest in epoxying a floor please pm me and i will give you all the advice i can....I do this everyday for a living and can probabley help out with product selection as well as durability and use selection....PPG MEGASEAL is one of the best for the money in my opinion. I recently completed a new PEPSI plant here in Houston and we did all 360,000sqft in MEGASEAL 2 part modified urethane....you can run a fork lift with the blades down on the floor and the sheen isnt even effected... If you need any input i will provide all the info possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEO240 Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 I've been looking at Garage Tek's tile flooring system. Seems much more efficient to me. I happen to also like the checkered look for the floors. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 The tile systems are good looking and can be done in tons of different patterns. I never did anything with my floor since I could never decide what to do. I'm sort of glad I didn't since I weld and do all kinds of stuff in there. It would have already been messed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 I went with a 2 part epoxy. Amazingly durable but I did F#$%* some of it up by welding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEO240 Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 The only benefit to me in the tile system is that where I keep my vehicles and where I work on them are two different locations. So I would place the tiles where I keep the cars, not where I wrentch on them. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sfisher16 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 I had light grey epoxy paint in my first 4 car garage and it stood up realy well to most things I did to it (trolly jack, jack stands, engine stand etc) also brake fluid thinners, but I did have a problem in one area, after about 6 months a patch about 4' x 1' just lifted up in 1 big "flake" but I think this may have been due to the concrete still curing. (I was in a hurry to move in). Your "flake" is from the surface prep. I own a commercial coatings company and would tell you the only way to do this without a redo at some point is to grind the concrete with a planetary grinder. ($16k for a 21" rig, $35k+ for a 32") You can't rent one and EDCO is not a real surface grinder contrary to what your local rental guy will tell you. You can convince a small guy to do the prep for about $1.25 a SF. HTC equipment is what you want. The second part is to use only solvent based epoxy and urethane. U-coat it is pedaling all water based and you pay for it long term as they cannot withstand harsh chemicals and abrasion. If you plan on beating the coating up, jackstands or other you should broadcast sand into the epoxy while it is wet and then put aliphatic urethane over it. This is what your major manufactuers do to with stand heavy equipment abuse. If you are handy enough to do it check out Pilgrim Permacoat in Tampa , Fl, but beware of the MSDS warnings. This is not something you can by at Home Depot. These products are highly toxic in their uncured state and require a carbon filtered mask during application. The solvents are MEK, Xylene & N-But-Acetate. Good luck and don't try to coat over your exisitng finish, it will peel almost immediately. Concrete Network. com is a good place to find a surfacing contractor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sfisher16 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 I went with a 2 part epoxy. Amazingly durable but I did F#$%* some of it up by welding... The only coating that will withstand welding is one with silica or quartz impregnation. The max temp on epoxies and urethanes is under 400 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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