Rattle Can primer OK?

[NCchris]

My newly aquired Z has been dissassembled, now it's rust repair and metal prep. Is it OK to use rattle can primer once the metal has been sanded or brushed bare? Any brand better than the other. I would hate to find out way down thw road that my paint job won't stick because I did step one incorrectly.

TIA

chris

[innerware]

Of course you should first read some old posts. Search Search Search is the name of the game here.

 

Rattle can primer sucks. Why spend time at all on the body if this is all you are going to do. If you have to use rattle cans use "Zero Rust"

 

Most primers out of the can are porous and will let mousture in to the bare metal rendering your car worthless and rusty.

 

Good luck and check out the search funtion.

[NCchris]

Guys, thanks so much for your response. I apologize for not mentioning that I had searched and found approx 500 posts, then further filtered those results. I did find one recurring term that prob applies to my question, "junk primer". I will assume from your answers that anything found at Autozone, Advance, etc should be classified as "junk primer"

 

Thanks for the welcome, I have lurked here far longer than I have posted. The depth of knowledge here is unreal and as I stated in my first post, everyone here seems very mature. Quite frankly, I have become tired of the flame wars on several of the forums I have participated on in the past.

 

Once again, thanks.

chris

 

edit: see http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=15030 for "Before"

[Jason Jarvis]

Racer X is a paint expert around here, but I'll reinforce what he and others have said. If it's cheap primer from Advance or Wally World or whereever, you are wasting your time and money. There are good primers in rattle cans though, you have to be careful what and where you buy, and for the correct application. I just checked the receipt for a can that I have been using today, a DuPont zinc chromate that I have been using on some minor rust repair, $22 a can from the local paint and body supply. If you have or can get a compressor and sprayer, it will be far better and more economical for what you are doing. For the small jobs, or if it is your only option, cans of good stuff are OK.

 

Good luck !

 

Jason

[80LS1T]

I just started the body work on my car recently also. I have a buddy who is a auto body guy. Hes been doing it for 20+ years and he told me to use "Specialty Performance Products" SXA1031 self etching primer for the spots where I sand through the original primer and hit bare metal. Basically I am just using it to put a light coat on the bare metal and then spraying regular primer over the whole panel. The regular primer is not ment for direct metal contact like the etching primer is.

 

He's been using the primer with very good results. So I wasnt affraid to use it. Its like $17 a can though. Definetly not your $3 can from Autozone!

 

 

Guy

[DavyZ]

See if you can locate an automotive paint store near you, one that supplies the body shops in the area with paint & supplies--those stores usually carry very decent primer in rattle cans. The one that I go to near me has a very knowledgable staff and they have made some sound recommendations to me in the past. Just a thought.

 

Davy

[Cruez]

I have noticed when I tried to do a couple small parts with that primer.. it takes forever to dry.... and it still is crappy...

[AK-Z]

just get a couple of cans of rust zero. You only need a light coat. (I've been converted )

[Guest 280kraZ]

I'll second (or third or whatever) the zero rust as good stuff, but make sure you don't put it on too thin or it won't work as advertised. There is plenty of good information about it in this post http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108261&highlight=zerorust