Jason Jarvis

Well, crap... Mine is way to tight to put on by hand too, and I have had it for at least a couple of years now. Was about to drill it for a crank trigger. How many people have had these work, everyone need to hone or ? Jason

I'll take a 3X in Dark Heather if I can still get in. Thanks ! Jason

I know this is a couple months old, but I have nothing but good things to say about John Washington and ZTrix. I have spent some money with him, and will likely do more. Jason

Seems Paulo is still around, communication has improved, and I am told that my parts will be ready next week. Optimistic, we'll see... I'll keep everyone updated. Jason

Someone is responding to my e-mails, they are not signed "Paulo" as they were before, but no mention of a tragedy... Having said that, I am still optimistic, but it has been over three months since I ordered. I have received two shipping notifications, but the parts were never picked up by UPS. Wednesday I was told that there was a delay on the tail light panels, but the headlight buckets were shipped to me while I waited. When I sent copies of the empty UPS tracking pages, I was told there was a problem with pick up, and they were looking in to it. No response to my e-mail asking for a status update today, but they may not work on Fridays.... Hoping all is good, but getting a little concerned at this point. May be glad I only did a deposit so far.... Jason

Just ordered a couple of things, I was told that the cowl panel is available in vented or smoothed, and that the dash and console are on the "short term plans". Hope these turn out nice, I have wanted a CF tail light panel for a while.... Jason

I know this is Hybrid Z, and I try to cut them up with the best of them, but a V8 and widebody on a solid Series I 240Z when you have two later cars sitting there, ouch..... I must be getting old. Anyway, be careful, as you have found, the tranny mount is the third leg of the tripod that hods the engine and tranny in, it falling like that is normal. If you are only wanting to do a 5 lug conversion with the Z31 suspension, the front hubs from a Z31 will actually bolt on a first gen. Z's used the same front wheel bearing diameters until 89. You can then use Toyota truck calipers for a brake upgrade too. The rear is a different story, you have to get more creative or spend more money at that point. A friend of mine did a 280ZX t-top conversion on a first gen, it is nice, but he and the body guy said never again. Good luck, Jason

Um, sure did, and I re-reading it I don't see anything about the roofline..... Sorry if I am missing something, sounds like you don't have to worry about the emissions issues though, good deal. Jason

I don't think there is a difference in the roofline of any of the first gen cars, as long as you are comparing 2 seaters to 2 seaters and 2+2's to 2+2's... Good luck with your build. All I can really contribute is that I agree with all the comments on using a 280, and that I have purchased several parts from John Washington of VR and can highly recommend him. Jason

Yeah, strange bunch, always running around in big groups trying to force people into their weird lifestyle.....

I work in Zebulon, NC, about 20 miles east of Raleigh. A new Murphy opened recently and we are having a little price war. $1.79 when I filled up yesterday. Nothing like a global recession to bring things back to earth.... Jason

From certain angles I love it, from others it is not so good..... That front 3/4 posted here seems to be a very bad angle to me, I don't like the A pillars. The low side shots look very much like a widebody S30 and look great.... I'll have to see it, I wasn't sure about the GTR until I saw it in person either... Jason

One more positive for John Washington. I have several of his parts just waiting on me to get off my arse and build a car. One of the best I have dealt with, and his stuff is first rate. BTW, when he quotes shipping, don't have a heart attack, the crating job he does is worth every penny. Jason

If you use an 84 - 86 bumper on an 87 - 89 you have no place for a license plate. Not that you can't get around that with bodywork or creative mounting, I'm thinking about it myself, but the work to add a plate box in the older bumper probably would be equal to shaving the boxes off the 87+ bumper to begin with. If I were doing it tomorrow, I would get a scrap bumper, cut off the boxes, cut patches out of the spare and "weld" them in with bumper repair adhesive. Jason

I didn't realize that, I'd pull Eva out and watch it, but I have tapes, and no VCR any more.... Jason

I think a disproportionate number of Z fans are also Anime fans, a buddy in our Z club has Fujiwara Tofu Delivery decals on the side of his Z31 and a NERV license plate.... Jason

Racer X is a paint expert around here, but I'll reinforce what he and others have said. If it's cheap primer from Advance or Wally World or whereever, you are wasting your time and money. There are good primers in rattle cans though, you have to be careful what and where you buy, and for the correct application. I just checked the receipt for a can that I have been using today, a DuPont zinc chromate that I have been using on some minor rust repair, $22 a can from the local paint and body supply. If you have or can get a compressor and sprayer, it will be far better and more economical for what you are doing. For the small jobs, or if it is your only option, cans of good stuff are OK. Good luck ! Jason

Does this only happen in jet mode, or do you have the same problem in guardian and battloid ? You know the aerodynamics are substantially different... Sorry, I had to..... First, I agree with fixing the problems first, the roof scoop may be the most effective, but have you ever tried to fix a hole in the roof of one of these cars, that subtle curve is hell to ever get right once the roof has been molested. The NASCAR pic you posted is a good idea if you really want to try something, a Lexan window with a NACA duct should increase the cabin pressure and be removable later if you want. Otherwise, you might just try a duct in the front of the car routed to the cabin air intake, should create more pressure than the "fresh air" system is capable of, and again, be removable later. Check out places like pegasus racing for what you would need, as long as you are willing to spend a little money on it. Jason

You need to go to an autobody supply, somewhere that sells auto paint generally. They should have at least a couple different kinds. I generally use a "brushable" seam sealer for this type of work, well, I'm doing more rust repair than shaving, but the same idea. Honestly I am not familiar with exactly what is being discussed in this thread, I don't know of any seam sealer you can apply to a surface you want to smooth and paint, but the brushable works great to seal the back side of a panel after you have welded it in. There is a sprayable kind too, but requires equipment. Jason

Glad you are having fun ! The yellow wires you have seen on VG30's are Accel 8.8's. Summit had them in stock when I bought mine. Jason

Early 240Z's had factory fiberglass as I understand it. I asked about FG buckets last year, and for opinions on brands. I thought MS was expensive too, and no on could tell me who made them. Smoothline has them, I think a little cheaper, but I was warned about their lead times and quality. I eneded up taking a risk on a pair on e-bay. Think I got both for just over $100. They are OK, but not new old stock as the auction stated. Ironically, they were made by one of the companies that merged into or was bought by Smoothline, so probably out of the same molds. These were decent quality, but not as nice as the Reaction fenders they are bolted to....

No plugs = no oil pressure = bad day....

84 - 87 300ZX's used a T3, 88 and 89 got a T25. All but 84 were water cooled. There was never a ball bearing turbo fitted to a US VG30 as far as I know, so if it is BB, it's aftermarket. All VG30T's had a T3 flange, even the T25.

The NIB Nissan L28ET auto oil pump I have in my hand is 15010-S8000, and the casting looks to be "K4". New run ?

I took the plunge and received a set today. They are actually very nice, better materials than I expected. The grille material for example, I expected the flimsy cheap stuff that I would have to replace, it is actually heavy gauge punched aluminium. I'll try to get some pics. The only negative at all in my mind is that two holes need to be drilled in the hood. It would be nice if studs were molded in to accomodate the original mounting holes.