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HybridZ

Wide Wheels and Rear Toe-in


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Damn John...

I did not know this. I'm not disputing it, but I had 265-50s on the back of my car on 8inch tires.. I didn't notice a problem with zero toe, but I'll take notice when I put the 275-40-17s on the back on the 9 inch wide wheels...

 

Mike

 

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http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Offest bushings (inners) are how you get the toe-in. Depending on the type of offest busing you use, you might have to oval the hole a little bit to reduce bind. Another way to achieve this is to put shims between the bushing and clamps.

 

Now, you probably don't need to make this mod if its a street driven Z or you're running street tires. With race slicks or DOT R tires the rear of the car will "hunt" during transitions (corner turn in, corner exit) which will make it more prone to lift throttle oversteer on corner entry and on corner exit you'll get snap oversteer if too much throttle is aplied.

 

> PS whats with that zcarnbranson dillhole

> on zcar.com talkin smack about you?

 

I think he was agreeing with my post on the "This link is why beating rice is so..." thread. He just had a funny way of saying it.

 

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John Coffey

johnc@betamotorsports.com

 

[This message has been edited by johnc (edited February 02, 2001).]

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I had to move my front arm support outboard about 1/8" (way too much toe-in). Being I took the Delrin offset bushings out (started to wear and rattle real bad), I did the offset with the OEM bushings by first grinding off about 1/8" of rubber from the bushing's outboard side only, being very careful to keep it round to perfectly match the metal clamps shape. Then I used schedule 40 pvc pipe cut in half (crescent shaped pieces) that had the edges carefully tapered to again make the piece snugly fit between the rubber bushing and the clamps on the inboard side only of the bushing (had to grind off the little tit on this side). Thus the pvc piece forced the centerline of the bushing outboard where the 1/8" removal of the rubber allowed it to be moved. It took about an hour's worth of time (and a lot of black rubber powder on my shirt) to do this. On the original piece I did years back, I used aluminum, but have found the pvc works just as well (is also as durable)and is much easier to work. I think I used 2" pipe. Anyway, this greatly helped stability on uneven pavement with my wide tires and I no longer have all that rattling in back.

 

Terry Oxandale

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i had some of those aluminum-delrin bushings in back but got rid of them because of noise.i just loosen things up and move it around with prybar and can get about .15 on each side .rear toe in is very important-car feels loose with out some.it still wants to wander a little bit on rain grooves on freeway when i run my kumho slicks to the track.that is why i want some rear control arms like the ones simon built.camber & toe in quick & easy on alignment rack at work the night before i go to the track.i align my car for the track and realign it for the street because i get to use the rack at work.my track alignment is front 3.2 neg camber,3 castor,.o5 toe front rear 2.5 neg camber .15 toe in .this thing pulls on rain grooves set up this way but it works great on track-i out ran a 240 its z race car at laguna with this set up.he had to look at my license plate .then i drove it home instead of having to load it on a trailer.

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Great advice guys. Very helpful. Thanks for the tip terry. Your car is beautiful. I look at it when im mad at my car and it makes me feel better HAHA. Nice ride man.

 

Ill keep all this info in mind!

 

John, sorry bout that but zcar.branson flamed me hardcore for a simple post awhile ago. I see what you mean though.

 

Evan

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