Z-Dreamer Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Dr.Hunt, so when are you going to show us how to install a solid axle into a Z without back-halfing it? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Patience my boy, patience. I just finished the '33, let me breathe. Ok, I'm good, now what were you saying? Oh, yeah, when I get the z back from paint prison, I'll draw it in CAD, save it as a .pdf and post it I think. How's that? You in a hurry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Just how much work and money is involved in placing a solid axle into a Zcar. I have the 300ZXT R200 rear end plus CV axles and billet adapters and stubs. No broken parts with this combo but I am not near as fast as some of you. My best is 10.81 at 125. I would love to do a 9" or 8.8" swap. I just honestly lack the knowledge and space to perform such a detailed swap. Thanks for any shared info from those of you who have been down the road already. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Dreamer Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Dr.Hunt, I'm in no hurry, I would just like to see it done! What type of suspension are you thinking? Ladder Bar, 3 link or 4 link, maybe a truck arm like the Nascar boys? It would be nice to have a live axle that could handle well in the corners! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Well, I do straigh line, the truck arm would be difficult in a z if not impossible. 3 link, 4 link and ladder bar is conducive to traction in a straight line and on the street. The ladder bar is sooooo simple it's what I'd like to detail first. I will be doing a 4 link like stony and we need that documented in dwgs as well for the masses IMO. So, we'll see, I have to get the TT going next, then the z, well one of the z's anyway. Stay tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Dr Hunt, have you already done a ladder bar setup on a Z? I ask because Im about to re-do the rear end of my Z and thought that a 4 link would be the easiest way to go due to space constraints. By my measurments the ladder bar crossmember would be close to the back of the front seat mount using a 32" standard ladder bar. That being said, the 24" 4-link would be right at teh back of the rear seat mount. Like I said, I havent even began yet, Im working on rust repair on the floors and some subframe connectors at the moment but your input would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Same here, Never was able to get it down the track and go fast enough without breaking something. i started with a minitub but decided with the ultimate round tube backhalve with a 8.8 rearend. I decided i might as well go all the way instead of half way then want all the way later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 To get the ladder bars to work you have to weld in a channel from about the back of the seat on rearward so that the ladder bar can clear and travel with the suspension. If you doing floors already then that won't be a big deal. Using the frame reinforcment channel, drill crossways through the channel and frame to place the ladder bar link bolt. I'd put them on the inside of the frame rails and then with some wheel well mods, mini tub, you can get a 10 inch tire under there. I run a 29.5 tall tire as well, fits underneath the car no flares. That channel is about 8 to 10 inches long, times two of them. Easy to fab out of 1/8" plate and give you good weld base to attach to the floor. The 4 link is more adjustable, you can see the wheelies the black z does, with a 4 link you can adjust that out so that it doesn't waste that energy raising the car but instead makes it even quicker. I would imagine that with a 4 link I can get 60' down in the 1.20's if I have enough tire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 The ladder bar is sooooo simple it's what I'd like to detail first. I will be doing a 4 link like stony and we need that documented in dwgs as well for the masses IMO. What's an ETA for this? Just looking for a general idea on when you think you would do this. I'm not really in a hurry either and have plenty to do before dropping my LS-2 in. I just don't want to miss any of this!! I'm not really keen on breaking halfshafts, etc. either at the top end of the track (or anywhere else for that matter)- and I run 1/8th mostly!! ps- Thanks for taking the time to document this via CAD. It is appreciated!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 About 3 to 4 weeks, I'm really busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 You may also want to check out: http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j59/Two40musclez/Two40MuscleZ/ which came from this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112221 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 About 3 to 4 weeks, I'm really busy. Great, let me know if you need any help with the ACAD drawings, I do a fair bit of acad layouts (2D or 3D) at my job. I use ACAD release 2000, but have access to 2006 and can save in about any ACAD format or convert to .pdf... Let me know if you'd like some help detailing this. -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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