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Calling all brake Guru's.


Guest zfan

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Heres the skinny, my brakes(stock of course) on my 71/Z suck!!! The WIFE!!! says leave car alone so of course I am looking for the cheapest/best brake upgrade?

 

I've heard of 280/300 upgrades, Toyota 4 runners etc.. What in anyones opinion would be best for a budget upgrade.

 

Mike

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Some questions:

What do you use the car for? Street only or some track duty? How much power ya got?

 

My '71 has (WAG here) about 190 hp. I mainly do track events with it (15 - 30 min. sessions) and I've found that braking is pretty damn good with the stock braking system, even at brake-intensive NHIS.

 

Cheapest upgrade you could do? Fresh brake fluid (Ford heavy duty is cheap and has a 550F boiling point), good pads (I've used Metal Master, Porterfield R4, and CarboTech, all are good for track usage), and NISSAN shoes. I used racing compound shoes last year and was forever adjusting the damn things at the track (was getting a long pedal, presumably from shoe wear). Switched back to Nissan shoes last event at Lime Rock and didn't have to touch them all day.

 

Unless you are making over 200hp AND do some track driving, I'd say the stock system is just fine, assuming that the calipers and wheel cylinders are in good condition.

 

Remember, your maximum braking performance is limited by tire traction, and no amount of bigger, badder braking hardware is going to increase tire grip.

 

Oh yeah, stainless steel brake lines might be a good idea, esp. if your lines are the stock originals! I *finally* replaced mine last year, and the pedal did firm up a bit, though it was alright before.

 

Try to get the most out of the system you have before you go spending $$$ on stuff you may not need. (note that this frees up $$$ for go-fast hardware elsewhere!)

 

Dan Baldwin

'71 240Z 3.1

COMSCC #7 SPB

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I've got a sbc 355, full RPM set up. Guess about 400 hp. Mainly street/strip driving.

Pulled out four speed manual and installed 700r4 auto. Mike

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Okay, in order of mild to wild here's how I understand the various brake setups:

 

1) add Toy calipers to stock system - I've got a set of these for sale NOW cheap. Twin piston and much bigger pads really help for little cash.

 

2) Replace rotor AND calipers. Vented rotors, Toy calipers. Again, twin pistons and bigger pads. Vented rotor will help slow fading and heat soak.

 

3) Same as above but go 5lug - no difference in braking but you get better wheel selection. I mention this because I'm selling this setup NOW. Don't forget the rear too though, you'd want 5lug there too.

 

4) SCCA's OutLaw 12.2 inch brakes. Can you say throw out an anchor? www.fonebooth.com His stuff is on Mikelly's car, will be on mine, and he's working on a rear setup for me now too. Vented rotors, featherweight calipers, 4piston up front, what's not to like?

 

Cost runs from cheap at about $150+ shipping on #1 smile.gif to over $800 on that last one I think - check his WEB site for pics and details. The Outlaw stuff is LIGHT but possibly overkill. I'm going overkill!

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Am I missing something here? fonebooth.com is a cell phone site, and after much inspection I cannot find a link to brakes. Anyway, I think I've seen that brake site before and have a question. Is the 12.2" rotors made out of aluminum, or am I miss-reading this too.

 

Terry

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Hey 383, yeah, that was my Z at World of Wheels!

 

Zfan, if you're doing only street/strip stuff, the stock system is fine. If, however, you plan to take the car to a road race course for extended lapping, you'll likely need more. The Toyota calipers BLKMGC mentions are actually 4-piston calipers. Have about the same piston area as stock Z calipers, so shouldn't screw up front/rear balance. Various rear disc options are out there, but be mindful of balance ramifications. Getting the balance front/rear wrong can INcrease stopping distances if there's too much front bias; or worse, lead to serious instability if the rears lock first.

 

Again, note that the stock system CAN be made to work well, and if you're not REPEATEDLY braking hard from high speeds (i.e., lapping at a road course) to the degree that you're overwhelming the stock system's capacity for rejecting the heat, then you don't NEED to spend much on brake hardware. You also want to try to keep from adding unsprung and rotational mass if at all possible.

 

Dan "braking with big-braked M3s at the track" Baldwin

'71 240Z 3.1 (stock rotors, calipers, drums)

COMSCC #7 SPB

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Terry et al, the reason i used the "fonebooth" hosting is the store pays for the website and i piggyback the automotive stuff onto it for free. i got tired of popup crap ads from tripod and geocities.. if i wanted to have outlaw-brakes or future-mobile.com show those names on the header they would charge me for 2 more hosting accounts at $125 yr each, no thanks! i'm not using the space i have now..

there is a link at the bottom of the main fonebooth page for automotive and that will take you to all the car stuff.

i have a new name for this now outlaw-brakes.com and its forwarded to the auto.html page. until i come up with a better name..

 

Mike

 

 

 

------------------

Mike

mike@fonebooth.com

http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html

raceparts and brake upgrades.

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Terry and others,

Go to: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z and check out photos of the front and rear disk setups. I'll try to get more and better pics of the wheels and brakes, cage, and other mods up asap. I'm also gonna have to buy some front camber plates, as I don't have the kind of travel up front that I'd like to see.

 

Mike

 

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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BLKMJK, Would be interested in the toyotabrake upgrade your selling. What mods would I be looking at? Nothing too severe I hope. Please let me know. Mike

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Jim....

if you dont sell the fronts in a few days let me know - theres someone out this way looking for a 5 lug setup..

lemme know..

 

Mike

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WOW! Suddenly everyone wants my brakes :-)

 

Okay, the 5lugs MAY be spoken for - I'll know in a couple of days one way or the other. The 4lug brakes are still sitting aorund. I thought I had them sold but no word lately so I think the deal is dead. The 4lug bolts on right onto the stock (solid) rotor so it's the least fuss. It's not the top of the line upgrade, that uses a vented rotor, but it works much better than full on stock IMO as the pad size is MUCH bigger. Calipers, pads, rotors, and I think I'll send the hubs along too as I'm going 5lug. Mike/SCCA and others have detailed WEB pages on what goes into the next step up in braking - vented rotors...

 

Prices for all of this and other parts are over in the sales forum - don't want to pitch here. I think the price on the 4lug was $150 +shipping - check over there for the details.

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hey Mike,

I looked at your site and saw the brake pictures. Now my advise is to take that whole strut and brake assembly off the car, clear coat it with some nice polyurethane, and donated it to an art museum. Looks great.

 

Terry

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This from the man with the rolling art work he calls a car! Terry, you crack me up!

 

Guys, I remember years ago (92-93) talking to Terry on the phone after seeing his car in a Kit Car magazine! He is one super guy... He is also the guy who got me started in thinking about doing a V8 swap all those years ago....

 

Terry you crack me up!

Mike

 

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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