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mobythevan

MSnS_Extra024s9 settings in jpeg format

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Thanks to Metro for taking these screenshots of his setup. The biggest difference with Metro's setup versus the install guide is the use of the 83zxt distributor in the install guide. His car is setup as follows:

 

v3 MS board

Stock injectors

Aeromotive RRFPR, just 1:1 ratio like stock

Stock Fuel Pump, at about 40psi

240sx TB

1g DSM BOV

Grainger style MBC @ 10psi

 

 

Ignition:

'76 VR distributor with mechanical advance locked, set as far counterclockwise as possible

GM 4pin HEI running out of D14 (LED 17) and not FIDLE

 

MSnS Output Settings

metro_outputs.jpg

Spark Settings

metro_spark_settings.jpg

VE Table

metro_ve.jpg

Spark Table

metro_spark_table.jpg

Constants

metro_constants.jpg

Cranking Enrichments

metro_cranking.jpg

After Start Enrichments

metro_ASE.jpg

Warmup Enrichments

metro_warmup.jpg

Acceleration Enrichments

metro_accel.jpg

 

I will try again to attach the zip file with the msq, let me know if this doesn't work.

metro_024s9_msq.zip

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Im only curious about 2 things. How did you get 12 for Req_Fuel, I thought the stock l28 was somewhere in the ball park of 7-8. Also, is there any particular reason you are using 2 simultanious squirts rather than alternating?

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Im only curious about 2 things. How did you get 12 for Req_Fuel, I thought the stock l28 was somewhere in the ball park of 7-8. Also, is there any particular reason you are using 2 simultanious squirts rather than alternating?

 

My injector driver #1 doesn't work for some reason (signal is fine, but when it's hooked up to injectors, it does nothing) and I haven't got around to fixing it. All six injectors are running off driver #2.

 

Also I should note that since I'm using the v3, it has a built in flyback board for PWM. I'm not using a resistor pack for the injectors like in the guide. So if you are using resistors with low impedance injectors, set the PWM current limit to 100%.

 

Don't take these settings as the gospel, but it will get your car running pretty well, then you should tune from there. For example, the warmup hasn't been tuned. If your motor is colder than 70°F, it probably will take a few tries to get it running. It also runs rich under cruising, around 13:1

 

Hopefully in the next week or two, I'll be able to post a wideband tuned msq/pics for 29q2 which uses the latest version of Megatune and MSnS-extra.

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2800cc

6 injectors

stock injector size(can't remember' date=' are they 260cc)

AFR 14.7

 

Anyway that works out to 12 on required fuel[/quote']

 

O yeah... I forgot that I had 440cc injectors... its been a long couple of days for me...

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Hey all, just thought I would post my VE table and Ignition map for all to see, still needs some work (don't have a dyno) and I still have to figure out the acceleration enrichment, but I'll give thee fair warning, the filename lives up to it's name. (Got torque? I literally smoked my brakes just trying to optimize the LOW RPM parts- this L28 can overpower the brakes in 1st now. The car will pull smoothly from 700rpm in FIFTH, a bit of ping, but not much, and at about 1800rpm will start sinking you into the seat)

Here's my car until I get the turbo swap done

78 280z

Stock L28E motor with MSA header 3-2

Ford TBI 437cc/min injectors

JSK fuel rail barbed hose type

Extensively modified 60mm MSA throttle body so it works with the DIY remote IAC enclosure, I drilled and tapped the factory idle bypass screw hole and blocked it with an 1/8 NPT pipe plug after the Throttle Plate, the air goes out a 3/8 fitting to the enclosure, thru the valve, then back into the intake which was tapped for a 1/8 NPT nipple where the cold start injector used to be. I then adjusted the base idle screw for 650 rpm.

Remote IAC enclosure with 94 jeep IAC motor modified with GM IAC pintle (for some reason the enclosure was sized for the jeep valve but the actual pintal was the GM size...WTF)

81 5 speed with fidanza lightweight flywheel and stage 2 c/f clutch

4.11 non lsd R200 from 80's 200sx

89 stanza TPS (same as 240sx) mounted with shelf hangers...not goin anywere...but eventually will get one from a 95 Q45, these also have the 5-wire connector (two on top, three separate) and appear to have the Z TPS bolt spacing 8o)

83 ZXT optical Dizzy with 1.2K ohm pullup in wiring (a 4 pole trailer connector, nobody had anything else that was waterproof)

 

Installation:

Mounted right where factory computer went. The factory cover will still fit!

Used the factory wiring harness with the following modifications:

Re-wired fuel pump relay to have power all the time instead of ground all the time (on the 78 it's under the underhood relay box, has two green/blue wires for the fuel pump, the white/black wire from ign relay under right side of dash and the black ground wire) Physically, it's sandwiched inbetween ign relay #2 (i don't know what else to call it) and ign relay #3 which is behind the voltage regulator

The wire that originally went to the ECU to power the fuel pump relay in the 4-pole connector under the dash-it plugs into the ecu harness (which has the white/black, green/blue, black, and green wires, but don't think they go the FPR nissan wasn't that logical, remember) is green and I traced it out, cut it out from the ign relay #2 and then spliced into the voltage regulator for the ign relay #2 turn on voltage (otherwise you won't get power to the ECU!)

THis way I could put pin 36 onto that to run the fuel pump.

The other two wires went to the cold air regulator and the cold start injector for power. They now are the 4 wires to my IAC valve.

The AFM wires went to my distributor and IAT sensor, respectively, as the 78 z only had five wires to AFM (since they had the weird fuel pump relay circuit)...the fuel pump pins on the AFM are not used on a 78

I also removed the Factory Transistor ign. module, looks like it could be used for MS if someone wants to try it (My buddy sal wants MS now maybe we'll try it on HIS car)

My tach still works fine, the resistor for the tach is spliced somewhere else in the wire harness. (in fact its actually accurate to within 100rpm!)

The red and green wires from the VR distributor now are power and switch ground from the FIDLE pin on the MSII. (Going to use it to power a fan relay eventually, as the plastic connector under the hood is in the perfect spot!)

The wire colors to the factory ign module are:

1) blue/white- factory ecu pin 10 wire sw. power from ign relay

2 and 3 )green and red from VR dizzy

4) black/white-negative coil terminal-goes to 4-pin conn by the ECU,so now a cool side effect for me, I can disconnect that connector when underway, won't have spark OR fuel, nobody's driving my car away!

5)black- ground

That's it, that's all I did to use factory ECU wiring for MSII!

 

 

Settings:

I marked the damper and turned it to 75 deg BTDC but for some reason the most trigger offset I can get and still get the timing on MS to match the light is 49 deg must be a tooth off

 

My accel settings are crap I won't even post them, the car pulls great as long as you don't drop the hammer (if you set the hammer down you're fine)

Still working on that

 

Dwell is 2.1ms

 

req fuel is 8 or so but I don't need to tell you when the calculator will do it for you! (put in the cc/min, displacement of motor (L28 is 168cid) and estimated hp and torque...I put 160hp and 178lb ft at 4800 and 3200 respectively)

 

cold start settings are from the sticky thanks mobythevan!

 

IAC settings are 0 to 300 steps the JEEP iac uses the full range

120 is the 80F opening point, idles at 700rpm that way only idles fast if it's colder than it gets in southern california

 

Ok here's my lists (if I figure out how to stick them in here!)

 

EVEME 1.0

UserRev: 1.00

UserComment:

Date: 08-19-2006

Time: 20:58

Page 0

Scale 0.100000

VE Table RPM Range [12]

[ 0] = 6

[ 1] = 11

[ 2] = 16

[ 3] = 21

[ 4] = 27

[ 5] = 32

[ 6] = 38

[ 7] = 43

[ 8] = 48

[ 9] = 54

[ 10] = 59

[ 11] = 65

VE Table Load Range (MAP) [12]

[ 0] = 20

[ 1] = 30

[ 2] = 35

[ 3] = 45

[ 4] = 50

[ 5] = 60

[ 6] = 65

[ 7] = 70

[ 8] = 80

[ 9] = 85

[ 10] = 95

[ 11] = 100

VE Table [ 12][ 12]

[ 0] [ 1] [ 2] [ 3] [ 4] [ 5] [ 6] [ 7] [ 8] [ 9] [ 10] [ 11]

[ 0] = 210 210 407 460 490 510 510 510 510 510 510 510

[ 1] = 210 210 381 445 472 486 485 485 485 485 485 485

[ 2] = 210 210 365 430 460 478 480 480 480 480 480 480

[ 3] = 210 210 345 400 430 447 450 450 450 450 450 450

[ 4] = 220 220 330 389 418 435 435 435 435 435 435 435

[ 5] = 230 230 315 370 400 417 420 420 420 420 420 420

[ 6] = 240 245 310 355 385 405 405 405 405 405 405 405

[ 7] = 250 262 315 345 372 390 390 390 390 390 390 390

[ 8] = 260 267 307 325 350 371 375 375 375 375 375 375

[ 9] = 270 273 305 325 344 360 360 360 360 360 360 360

[ 10] = 270 277 295 309 324 338 345 345 345 345 345 345

[ 11] = 280 286 295 305 316 326 330 330 330 330 330 330

 

ign map soon

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Can someone post a pic/settings of the 8x8 AFR Target table too? It seems there's like a bazillion submenus and settings in Megatune; are the posted screenshots the only "required" ones to get Megasquirt running, or is there anything else that I should input values for?

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Guys, we're having a hard time tuning this megasquirt. We have the MS1 with V3 board with MSnS. Here's out setup

 

Stock L28ET short Block

Stock T3 turbo

440cc injectors (42 lbs/hr)

Megan Racing RRFPR

Front Mount intercooler

Fidanza flywheel

 

 

Looking to make about 290 hp if possible with this setup. We just cannot seem to get this thing to run right at all. Please help, or at least give us setting for this setup because we've tried others and they don't seem to work along with the table generator. Thanks guys

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