mikeatrpi Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 Finally- after two years I have painted my ZX. I used PPG Omni: MP170 Epoxy, MP182 high build primer, and MAE Acrylic Enamel. You can find details in the link in my signature, or just ask! Thank you to everyone on the forum who provided tips along the way! before: after: I sprayed in the back yard of my house, and needless to say I have a "couple" of bugs and tree debris in my paint. I will need to colorsand and buff... I've found this thread in the archives- http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112031 but I am left with some questions. How long after I paint my enamel do I have to wait before buffing? I have three coats of color on- I sure hope this is thick enough to colorsand and buff. Lastly- should I buy the $20 harbor freight buffer or spend the $100 for a porter cable random orbital? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxjoeyxxeb Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 Looks good... nice Aurora in the background... I had a sweet 97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 now thats the gloss I'm going to try and get! Looks GREAT!! did you fix the dent on the drivers door? I had the same thing on both of my doors above the handle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted July 19, 2006 Author Share Posted July 19, 2006 Thanks guys, no I replaced the door with one from my parts car. The hood, hatch, and both doors are "new". Also replaced the lower fenders, lower part of the rear quarters, and the "dogleg" portion of the rockers. Phil I watched your recent video (thanks for sharing), and I love the lights up front on your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted July 19, 2006 Author Share Posted July 19, 2006 That aurora is my folks'- its also a 97. Its an electrical basketcase- many many problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 I do a little painting on the side and i buff as quick as the next day on air dry jobs...most body shops do too..i would prob wait a week or so though to let the paint cure ....and if i was you, it would be cheaper and less the possibility of you burning through your paint to let a detailer do you buffing if its only spots...a orbital buffer is great for wax of polishing but not getting out runs or trash...high speed buffers can be a hand full if your not a pro...if you color sand use 1500 grit wet and who ever buffs it will have no problem..good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MusPuppis Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Another thing if you do it yourself.. I find that taping my edged results in less worry and helps protect common burn through areas. It also keeps the cutting and polishing compounds out of the nooks and cranies of the car, that stuff can be a REAL DAMN PAIN to get out of panel lines and such. Especially if it dries there. I learned that on the Mustang I painted. I spent the next 700000 hours of my life with a q-tip and a small amount of thinner to get the junk out 'cause I left it too long (note, dont touch the paint with solvents, no matter how mild until it has fully cured). As to the buffer, if the budget allows, its really worth getting the best buffer you can. I dont know the HF model offhand but having a nice, adjustable speed, quality buffer is very helpful. Very very. Personally, I dont like air buffers. I suspect a talented experienced production oriented detailer could kick some ass with an air unit but regulating the speed is tough and its really easy to 'move' the paint with one due to excessive RPM. Electric buffers (atleast the few I've used) have a series of settings at specific RPM so you can tailor the output to the products recommended specs. The cars Ive color sanded and buffed were within about 24 hours of laying the last coat of clear down, our instructor said its not a problem. My thinking is its easier to cut the clear before it fully cures and turns into a rock, might be a little more 'dangerous' but if you're careful its not a problem. One small tip, dont randomly sand. Try to keep a pattern (I like to work a criss-cross pattern, panely by panel). Its much easier to remember where you've been and where you still need to go. I also keep alot of excess water (A running hose is helpful) and a little squeege nearby (make sure its soft rubber made for the task, harder rubber can leave streaks or light scratchs Ive heard). As I sand I wash the excess junk off and squeege constantly so I can keep track of everything. Just my experiences thus far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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