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Break This!!


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I'm not sure of the requirements but I seem to recall that it should be placed just FORWARD of the midpoint on the driveshaft. This way if the front breaks you won't "polevault" and if the back breaks you can keep it off the road. As short as the Hybrid Z's driveshafts are it shouldn't be too bad to do. Scottie - how well does that fit in the Z tunnel? I had a heck of a time with the Mustang getting a loop in!

 

Scottie - have you put loops on the rear axles? I was sent some decent pics by a member here and it looked like a good idea. Bolt them to the control arms and they will move with the suspension... Can host if he doesn't mind and if there's interest.

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Just spent a couple of hours under the car and what a b*tch. Where you see the loop in the picture is about where it ended up. I wanted it back a few inches but that would have put the holes in the floor under the seat up against the seat mount bracket and the further you go back in the tunnel the less room you have as a result of the e-brake and the recess in the console area.

 

The bracket that bolts to the floor was too wide so I had to cut off 2 sets of holes. Next the bottom of the loop was too low because my exhaust (single 3") runs under the tunnel to get max clearance. I had to unbolt the bottom half of the loop, cut the top of it right below the bolt holes, then butt it up against the bottom of the top half to get the clearance for the exhaust. I am just going to weld that bottom piece on.

 

This is the generic loop, Moroso or Lakewood and if anyone is considering this unit, it will work fine if your exhaust does not run directly under the tunnel. If so, you MIGHT (I am speaking for a 71) have to do the mod I am doing. I will post a pic of the finished product if anyone is interested.

 

As for the NHRA specs, Jim hit it on the positioning and I seem to remember it had to be at least 2" wide and .25" thick.

 

I am interested in seeing the axle loops.

 

------------------

Scottie

71 240GN-Z

Scottie's GNZ

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Guest needwaymorespeed

Would like to see the pics also on the hoops. only concern would be the added weight

a real bad place for handling to add weight-probly negligible though

Curtis

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According to the 2000NHRA Rule book the hoop must be within 6 inches of the front U joint... I'm in the middle of making mine work as well...Gonna probably weld it to the subframes...

 

Mike

 

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http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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i dont understand why theres only 1??

there what about the back u joint?

road racing requires 2 one front and one rear. i make them out of 1/4" flat bar and heat/bend to match the floorpan then a flat bar underneath just as the new one pictured.

 

Mike

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Hi scottie, is that driveshaft custom? it sure is clean if it isnt! I may be missin the boat here, i dunno LOL. Hoop is mighty pretty, ill give you that. I seriously doubt ill snap joints in my L6 turbo though so im not too concerned.... or should I be?

 

Thanks- Evan

 

PS... I sent out an email about the downpipe, I never heard anything so I have not sent payment yet. Paypal is on the way, ill even pad it so it doesnt take a percentage of the money out. Just tell me when!

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Mike - if it's placed correctly it can prevent the front AND the back from doing damage. Obviously if it's a REALLY long driveshaft that might not work but you get the idea.

 

I believe NHRA is more worried about the front than the back anyway. Lost the back and it beats up some sheetmetal and hopefully you've got th ebrakelines done right so it doesn't hit them. However if the front goes it can polevault the car - doh!

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Guest kc6wfs

Hay Scottie,

 

Bummer about your driveshaft.

Question.. What u-joints were in there. The look small like stock Z u-joints.

The new one looks very nice. I had mine made from Cannon Engineering here in LA. Funny they have the same rear adaptor flange for the driveshaft as the jtr ones. If any one needs one and jtr is out or BO'd call them.

 

I had the solid Spicer's put in with mine.

Wonder how long they will last with out the zerk fittings?

 

Any idea?

I also am going to put a drive shaft loop in mine soon.

Never lost a shaft but I bet it's not fun!!

 

Anyhow glad you will be back up and running.

 

Dave

 

 

------------------

www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/240z.html

www.NitroPhotos.com

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Scottie,

I am running 2 small NHRA legal loops that I built with 1 inch of clearance around the drive shaft due to the small trans tunnel.

BLKMGK has some pics of half shaft loops I emailed him and maybe can post them since I don't know how. John c

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Guest Anonymous

The rear adapter flange (as many know, but for those who don't) is a Neapco piece. I brought it with me when I took in my driveshaft and the dude said, oh yeah, Datsun, Neapco piece, we got those. Probably be cheaper (for sure) than JTR sells them. It did make it easier to measure the Driveshaft length having the adapter, that way you can get a center to center measurement. Oh well, simple comment becomes book.

 

 

Lone

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Okay, here they are -> http://216.254.117.47/others.nsf/bf1cfce3711ab30d852569f90083bfc3/0fe10a10c40cdc5585256a210057e467?OpenDocument

 

Note that this isn't linked off my main page and is about 200+K. If I have some time I'll cut that file size down. This is off a 144K connection but should load okay.

 

John if you've got others you'd like posted or a description you'd like put up just let me knw.

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