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Thanks everyone in this forum, for I have finally givin up with the L28 and moving onto the SBC. I have ordered the JTR manual and should have it soon.

 

I do have a question though, what would be the best STOCK variation of the SBC for the 280z. I know the 350's are a dime a dozen, and theres plenty of parts at every single parts store. But what is the best SBC to start with, budget wise. Not so much as the cheapest block, but which ones will last longest such as not explode my rear, snap a driveshaft, or destroy my wallet.

 

I plan on building a 302(chevy), 327, or 383 soon, Probly as fall starts, but I plan on swapping to an SBC before the Fall. I DO NOT want anything crazy, just a fine running motor that doesn't leak. No performance parts on this one. I understand that the Z's tend to break the tires loose quite easily, so would a smaller displacement motor like a 305 be best? I plan on upgrading the drivetrain later, but for now just want a reliable driver, so I don't want too much torque.

 

I know variations of this question have been asked such as "Best engine for the stip or street" I mean it as, which variation of the SBC is reliable enough that it will run well for a few months, without me having to fix it, other then to tune the carberator every now and then.

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Personally I think the LT1 is the best motor to 'start out' with. It will fit as per JTR, and is the best in terms of performance bang for the buck. Probably won't leak and be reliable as all get out. I think it is the 'perfect' motor if you are talking strsght stock without the prices of the LSx motors.

 

You mentioned carbs. If you want a carbed motor, then really anything old is game. More cubic inches are always preferable IMO and there have been long and drawn out threads about this topic. I personally would never go anything less than 350 cubic inches anyway, but that's all my opinion.

 

Davy

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if you are looking for a cheap simple (wirefree) install go with a 305 it has little power but still enogh torque to brack your wheels plus slightly better gas milage imo

 

i would not go w/ anything less then a 350 eather but i am not looking for a stock "daily driver"

 

plus these engine/trans are very ez 2 comeby just keep an eye open u cane get a decint doner car for 500-1000

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Thr JTR manual has suggestions for which 350 they consider the best for the swap. They also suggest to get a complete engine, trans, and drive shaft from one car, the lower the mileage the better. Read the conversion manual and then read it again, has a ton of info on your questions.

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thanks for the wisdom, i do plan to read the manual front to back, then back to front. The LT1 is a favorite motor of mine, I have a few buddys with them in z28s and a formula firebird. But the motor now is only gonna be temporary, so I do not wanna spend the bucks on an LT1, for I will be swapping the motor within a few months.

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You didn't mention what type of trans you would like to end up with? It would make some sense to get your "temporary" engine with the type of trans you want to keep in the car, this way you buy the trans once. If you want a carb engine look for a 85' or older Camaro, Firebird, problem is most are old with alot of mileage, but don't give up there is alot of SBC out there.

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Experience shows that the swap contains too challenges: getting the engine and transmission to work, and doing the swap itself. I mean, mounting the engine, doing the cooling and exhaust, connecting the driveshaft, wiring the electricals and fuel pump, etc., is “the swap”. But if your engine is wounded then you’ll be doing engine work quite unrelated to the swap per se - and this could be considerably more frustrating and time consuming that the swap itself!

 

So the best option, as reiterated in the JTR book, is to score a well-running donor car. It really doesn’t matter if it’s a 70’s Caprice with a old-school carb’d 350, or a mid 90’s Z28 Camaro with a LT1 - as long as the thing runs. If the donor car is relatively quick, the Z will be very quick. But if the donor car pukes smoke, burns oil and runs 19’s in the quarter mile, the Z will run maybe 15’s - which defeats the point of doing a swap.

 

I would have to differ from some of the above posts, in that there’s something emotionally unfulfilling in using a 305 instead of a 350. Unfortunately 350’s have become much more scarce since the JTR manual first hit the market, around 8 years ago. So perhaps a worthwhile option is a 80’s-90’s Chevy or GMC pickup truck with a 350. Often these come with a 700R4 transmission, and they may be relatively easy to find at auctions - for example, retired city maintenance vehicles.

 

A manual transmission with a Gen I 350 seems to be quite rare. Most manual-transmission Camaros and Firebirds had 305s; the 1989 Firebird that you found is almost certainly a 305. Personally I dislike automatics, but I would rather get a 350 with a slushbox than a 305 with a T5 manual, and would look for an early 1990’s Chevy pickup with a TBI 350 and 700R4.

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well, a guy I work with has an 84 buick regal with a 200R4, and he put a 307 in it a while back. He said I could have the motor, and I could buy the trans for 100, it runs and drives great, but it burns some oil-I don't care about it burning oil really, so I think I'm gonna get it to tie me over. He actually said that may not be burning it in the motor, but leaking from the oil sending unit, and causing it to burn on the manifolds or something. Whatever I end up putting in it is gonna be better off then the motor thats bringing the car nowhere now.

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If your looking for a cheap LT1 check local city auctions. They always have some old 9c1 caprice cars complete with @100k miles. Yes that is kinda alot of miles and the police kinda beat their cars but they also keep up with maintenance very well. My engine has 160+k miles and is still going very strong. Doesn't burn oil etc. I rebuilt the tranny because I got a good deal from a friend of mine on doing it.

Back where I use to live I went to one auction and kicked myself for not buying some caprice cars. Out of 15 or so old cop cars - Caprices and Crown vics there were 8 94-95 caprice 9c1 cars. All of them went for under $1k average $800-900. Keep in mind this is a full car with LT1 and 4L60e and computer.. cars all ran. When I bought mine for my swap I paid $800. I then took everything out of the donor car that I needed to run... misc. parts - throttle so I could use the stock throttle cable and all the little stuff you never think you need till you need it. I then sold the body of the car for $500. So I got pretty much everything I needed for the engine part of the swap for $300!! That's what I'm talkin about!

Make sure you get a REAL LT1 with MPFI if you find a cop car. I saw some that had the same big plastic "V8" covers on them but if you looked at the throttle body it was a TBI and not MPFI.

Police 9c1 engines are iron heads and block. Not aluminum heads. I've heard from some that the stock vortec iron heads flow better due to being ported slightly better for more HP because the of the larger caprice weight. My stock intake flowed 225 @ .500 lift. Everyone I talk to that ports heads says it is VERY easy to get the heads to flow over 250 with some quick bowl work.

In my looking it was cheaper to buy a cop car at auction then buy a firebird or camaro. This is only if your local law enforcement has run Caprices in the past - they are very well used by police nation wide as far as I know - now being replaced by Crown Victorias.

Hope you find a smokin good deal somewhere!

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  • 1 month later...

Being more patient than picky helps a lot. I've kept my eyes open and found a zero-mile rebuilt 1969 307 for 300 bucks with a couple of aftermarket performance parts already bolted on. People say 305's and 307's aren't that great but in a little z they'll do the job and you'll already have the swap done so you can keep an eye out for that great deal on a 383 stroker!

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Mine has a moderate 350 SBC with probably 350 HP (a guess). I wish it had a 400 though. For me, stout but streetable 383 would be nice too. But then... I want a very strong street car to shame nearly all Mustangs, Firebirds and Camaros:mrgreen: This 350 would be okay with a more radical build but then it wouldn't really be streetable. Only more cubes will make enough power with a streetable build. Heck, I may even put a 454 with a little nitrous in mine:D A well-built bored/stroked 455 LSx would be the ultimate but I can't afford that:confused2 In a 2700 pound car, even a big block will get decent gas mileage, BTW.

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What your looking for is a 357 inch motor, cause too much is never enough, Dart block capable of going to 426 cubic inches, eagle 3.5 inch stroke crank, 6 inch carillo rods, JE 13:1 pistons, crane solid roller, comp roller lifters, comp pushrods, AFR 220 heads, roller rockers, stud girdle, Victor jr, 8 quart pan that'll fit in a z, 630 HP on the dyno altitude corrected, can be yours for $5500 plus frieght! PM me if interested.

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What your looking for is a 357 inch motor, cause too much is never enough, Dart block capable of going to 426 cubic inches, eagle 3.5 inch stroke crank, 6 inch carillo rods, JE 13:1 pistons, crane solid roller, comp roller lifters, comp pushrods, AFR 220 heads, roller rockers, stud girdle, Victor jr, 8 quart pan that'll fit in a z, 630 HP on the dyno altitude corrected, can be yours for $5500 plus frieght! PM me if interested.

 

I want that motor :cry2::banghead::cry2::willy_nil:cry2:

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