so many different primers! help!

[CantZme]

well when i bought my car, it had been primered with the rattle can primer over the stock orange. After shaving the rear and a few other holes, i proceeded to sand the whole body. It's not down to bare metal, but i would like to primer it flat black for now due to my financial situation(not enough $$ for paint). I am looking for a primer that will leave a consistent finish, good adhesion and something that i can eventually paint over without too much trouble. I was looking at rustoleum and the 2k urethane primers, but i was told the epoxy primers were also great. Someone please help me pick the right primer for my application. I am looking for a flat black finish, something kind of like phil's $40 paint job

[gearheadstik]

Go with the epoxy primer, it is waterproof unlike a 2k primer..."which is why you see alot of dudes ridin out w grey primer w red rust comming through it" ...or any other primer thats a etching and sealer primer...you get sctatches out w the 2k style which is a primer surfacer...ppg dp90 is a great one for the job...get a spray gun and go at it...if your dont have a little expierence get someone that does to spray it..this is a high cost product, but top of the line black primer...good luck

[CantZme]

any opinions on the krylon industrial primer can spray? i have heard that this can leave a nice finish if done correctly

[gearheadstik]

I've worked on many restoration projects and prob painted a houndred cars or so...my opinion of most thing that come out of a spray can are crap...but thats just me... paint is one thing that you sure enough pay for what you get...whatever is under your paint is what most determines how long your paint last, do it right and it could last a lifetime....i always tell everyone a fifth of your cars end value should prob go into the paint and body...if your car is only going to be worth a gran or so, sure go w the spray bombs...but dont think it is going to be a thirty thousand dollar car...maaco does a great job dollar for dollar..i dont know why people get upset when they have probs down the road...that's what they paid for..

[theianmonster]

I recommend a filler primer. It fills any little imperfections in the body like scratches. All you have to do is wet sand it smooth with 600 after you spray it.

[Brad-ManQ45]

If you want inexpensive and good, then look at Zero Rust.

 

It can be used as a primer, and since you will eventually top coat or use a high build primer on it to smooth the body, you should have no problem with a littel discoloring that comes from leaving it exposed to sun (this does not affect the protection).

 

By having it cure 30 days, you can use a product without acetone in it to paint over it.

 

It has a naturally flat finish to it.

 

I do not know what form the discoloring takes - probably chalky though.

 

Epoxy primers have the same issue with discoloration.

 

I will be using white Zero Rust on my (peeling clearcoat) on my 83 ZXT, which also needs to have windshield removed and some rust taken care of (leaks into drivers side) and a rust spot above driver side rear bumper extension.

 

This is mainly to get it looking halfway decent again. I will wait 30 days and then put a 2K high build primer on and prepare for a single stage paint. (My first time, I do not want to go metallic as it is now, so I am changing color to white.

[AK-Z]

Just wait for racerx to reply. I second the epoxy primer, though. then later on use build up sander/filler primer, sand, then paint.

[gearheadstik]

I recommend a filler primer. It fills any little imperfections in the body like scratches. All you have to do is wet sand it smooth with 600 after you spray it.

warning...filler primers aka primer surfacers are usualy porse and not waterproof over time...not what you want to put over bare metal..