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Where can I get Eibach coilover springs longer than 10"


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When I got my rear struts sectioned the guy kinda messed up and placed the threaded collar too low.. this, in turn, placed the lower nut right next to the tire, meaning I needed a wheel spacer. I'd have to take a picture to show what I mean. Anyway, I'm wondering how much it would cost to just replace the springs with longer ones of the same spring rate, which would do several things: give me much more adjustability for raising the car, give a lot more clearance for the wheel, and allow me to get rid of the spacer. I need a 12" or 14" (do they make 14" springs?) in the standard 2.5" coilover size, #175 weight. Thanks a lot.

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Guest scca

i've got some carerras 12" 240lb though i'll sell for $80pr.

 

Hypercoil = eibach. if you wanted eibach to color match good luck finding used. especially in a spring that soft...best bet is new $60 ea

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I can see now that I made a good move pre-mounting my coilovers using exhaust tubing to hold up the coilover sleeves before I finalized the position on the strut. Sorry to hear that the guy messed up.

 

12 and 14" 2.5" springs are available just about anywhere that sells coilovers - common size.

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Funny you should mention this. I too wasn't real scientific on where we put my peches. As it turns out the rear is pretty good with lot's of adjustment up and down. The front on the other hand is near the bottom of the adjustment range and running out of adjustment. Thankfully the ride height looks to be just about right and it doesn't need to go lower. (shrug) I guess lower rate springs could be used to drop it more if I really had to but I think I'm happy with it. I'll just raise the back a bit to get it to look "right" and be happy.

 

So Pete - you supported your threaded tube with muffler pipe to get it right? Seems to me that's probably a really good way to do it since varying spring rates will change where the threaded tube needs to be for full adjustment. (I think) I don't believe this is a one size fits all kind of thing with where to put the perches...

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There were enough variables involved (isolator or camber plate, spring compressed height with a V8 and what ever other changes I did, etc.) for me to feel uncomfortable enough with what the guy at Carerra told me (can't even remember what that was) about where to put the threaded tubes.

 

The back are supported by long pieces of tubing that are just big enough to slide over the strut tube, and go down to the casting for the hub carrier. I put a bunch of slits in the end (about 20, 1" long, along the length of the pipe) so that the fingers made by slitting the pipe would go up under the bottom of the tube where the sheet metal collar is supposed to go. This was before I bought the wheels from Jim Biondo. Those wheels and tires, along with the 1.5" shortened strut tubes mean the threaded tube needs to be at the very top of the strut tube (where it is now). I'm actually going to shorten the threaded tube since I can't use the bottom inch or so of adjustment as it is, and the added thickness of the threaded tube is taking away much needed rim to strut tube clearance (about 1/16" now!)

 

On the front, it's a short length of exhaust tubing, resting on the bracket for the brake hose. Mind you I haven't really driven the car yet (except for a short trip up and sown the street), but I'd be leary of doing that much and tearing the spot weld that holds that bracket on, since all of the weight of the front of the car is being held up by those brackets icon_rolleyes.gif . I'm waiting (and waiting and waiting) for the car to get back from the paint shop to put the rest of the parts in the car before I finalize where the front threaded tube will rest.

 

(BTW, I just cancelled my Convention and Hotel registrations for the Kingston Convention - no way the car would even be painted by then. I'm bummed.)

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I don't know what was going on in the guy's head. Apparently he just made the cut without checking if it was in a good spot or not, and the weld seam ended up right in the middle of where the threaded collar needed to be. So he ended up putting the threaded collar beneath the weld (don't ask me how he got it on there) and the lower spring perch ended up being at the very top of the threaded collar at a comfortable height (dropped somewhere between one and three inches, my measurements aren't exact - i just lowered it to where it had a nice stance and I knew I wasn't taking away much if any suspension travel). So I have essentially no room to raise the car unless I put on longer springs. I think I can get some from Dave Turner Motorsports, they deal with coilovers all the time.

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Hrm, I'm running 200 up fornt and 225 in back. Methinks I may be swapping them down the road? I do have some RR tracks to cross to get to the local cruise so maybe it'll be softer an cushy icon_smile.gif I'm betting I kill my strut carts and have to section though (sigh).

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