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Brake Questions


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

2 Questions:

 

1: Is there a way to install the 280ZX/300ZX brake booster and master cylinder into a '76-'78 280Z? It seems like this would be a logical move, but I have not seen a write-up by anyone who has done it.

 

2: If I am going to upgrade the brakes on my '78 280Z, shouid I start with the front, such as the Toyota rotor/300 caliper upgrade, or one of the rear drum-to-disc conversions?

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I've not made this particular booster swap, but the diameter of the ZX boosters I thought was too large to fit next to the clutch MC. But then again, I've never felt the need for a larger booster. I'll bet there are lots of varying opinions about the second question. My experience has been the front upgrade (I think you meant Toyota calipers instead of rotors) caused too much bias to the front, until I disc'd the rears which then required that I gut the OEM proportioning valve. Ideally, they should be done together IMHO.

 

Terry

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Guest scca

terry is correct that they "should " be done at the same time ....

 

BUT most of us cant get the time or $ to do it then so doing either end first is fine. genereally most do the fronts first. you just cant drive the car as hard as you may like till its all setup correctly. if you do the fronts and the rears AREin good working order (adjusted correctly) you will be fine.

its amazing that most Z cars have the original brakes not setup to work correctly..

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I suppose my first question would be - what's our ultimate goal? Are you going to be racing this car? Street driving? Drag racing?

 

There is a pile of brake options for this car being discussed here ranging from full on racng calipers and rotors from Mike/SCCA down to simply beefing up the stock stuff to even using Supra components. Obviously price can go from mild to wild too! Decide what you want to do with the car first and what sort of braking demands you'll have then choose a path to follow.

 

In my case I'm going to run a pretty decent V8. I also like to have more brake than I need for those times when I just might need it. I'm going with 12+ inch rotors up front w/5lug hubs and disks in the back that will be about 11inches using billet calipers. Mike's having to custom make some of this stuff for me since I'm a PITA and want an E-brake too icon_biggrin.gif You may decide that's too expensive and go the Toyota truck route - be aware there's two ways to go with that too. I favor the vented rotor Toy swap but my car came with the solid rotor Toy swap and actually seemed to brake fairly well (shrug).

 

Tell us what your ultimate goal is and your approximate budget and we can all beter help. You may or may not end up needing a bigger booster and master - I'm going to try my new setup with the stock 240 stuff and upgrade as needed. I expect I'll end up having to upgrade something at least icon_rolleyes.gif

 

P.S. Mike, you're back! icon_smile.gif You've got mail - how goes it buddy?

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks! My intent is to have the car set up for street driving, and maybe occaisonal trips to the drag strip. I will probably wait awhile before deciding anything on the brakes. It's got other things it needs worse...

 

[ July 04, 2001: Message edited by: Brian_O ]

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Brian,

In another post you mentioned that you plan to do the Silver State Challenge at some point down the road... If this is the case, I don't think the brakes you plan to install will be sufficiant if you are looking at making "450+" hp at the rear wheels... You might want to Look at Mike/SCCA's Outlaw Caliper/ 12.2inch brake kit.

 

Mike Kelly icon_cool.gif

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Guest confuZed

Now is there any downfall to using race brakes (calipers and roters) and just putting street pads on when not at the track? I want to overbuild my brakes but don't want to lose streetability (ability to coast to a stop without dog killing squeeks)Whatever hybrid I chose to go with will be used as a daily driver first and at whatever track for fun a far second.

 

Thanks,

Jared

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just change out the pads to street compound for street use and go to a higher temp pad for track days.

 

the ONLY issue with race type calipers is No dust seals. but its not a big deal. o-ring kits for wilwood or the outlaws i sell are only $10 per caliper. the pistons are stainless so will last a long time. put a kit into it every 2-3 years as preventative maintenance...

 

and they work excellent and LOOK AWESOME! icon_cool.gif

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