Guest scca Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 MIkelly- did you ever get that park lok in? i got mine installed yesterday, ran the rear brake line from the master into the car thru the old FI wiring hole. across the firewall and down the pass side tunnel.. i removed the ebrake handle and use that hole in the tunnel to run the line back to the underbody and to the rear brakes.. the park lock works awesome (so far) push the pedal and push the button the rears are locked SOLID.. tap the pedal and it unlocks.... as for the lines all i needed to do was ONE metric double flare to the master, i used ALL standard lines in the rest of the car and i have braided into the rear calipers now too.. oh and for those with nissan rears i have a metric inverted flare to -3 fitting to convert over for easily adding braid lines to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Mike, I'm glad to hear that. I'm gonna re-plumb my whole brake system, and I had planned to run the park lok just aft of my brake proportioning valve so I can have them both in the ****pit. Nice to hear it does its job... I'll be talking to you about upgrading the rear brake calipers to something larger... Mike Kelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Funny I was just talking to a buddy about doing something like that.. No doubt it works awesome for holding the car! However it is a "parking" brake, but it is also a "emergency" brake. If you have the hydraulics fail, you have no mechanical backup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 thats correct no mechanical backup.. this is NOT DOT approved (Ministry of transport for those canuks!) with dual reservoirs the days of a failing both ports in a master is basically non existant.. so i wouldnt worry about that. you would have to break the rod to the master or have the pin fall out..then you would have no brakes.. if i lived in sanfran and parked a lot on hills i wouldnt use this but for the amount i drive my car and i try to park on flat areas (in view of me too) this park lock will work fine for my use.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Is this a brandname thing? I got mine from JC Whitney and installed it but havent tested it out yet... Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Hey rossaroo how are ya buddy. I havent been online for awhile. I had a rear wheel cyl. in my 72' barf on me one time. Braking was still there, but let me assure you there was not much! I had to get the car home and spent alot of time downshifting. After that experience, im somewhat hesitant to go sans E-brake. I, also, live in a somewhat hilly area and feel WAY better about having a mechanical E-brake. This is a main reason i havent been tempted away from the rear drum. I have the toyo 4x4 setup. Its heavy, however still works reasonably well. Ross, im looking forward to seeing what the drawing board comes up with. I MAY be in the market for larger brakes next summer. Later dudes- Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Ross I believe is correct. Loss of fluid or pressure in one system (front or rear) will indeed affect the other system. Anybody that has had to bleed a system knows that until ALL (or both systems) are bled correctly, the entire brake system suffers. Yes, the braking ability is dimenished, but IMO still better than trying to stop from 40mph with only the emergency brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 "with dual reservoirs the days of a failing both ports in a master is basically non existant.." This could be very comforting to me assuming all true..I'd always thought if one failed the other would very soon follow without the resistance in the MC normally their with two good reservoirs, not true? I'd have to look at the actual construction/internals I suppose. I figured only one blown line or reservoir allows your pedal to go to the floor without any braking effect left as it's an open 'outlet' for the fluid/air/pedal pressure...? But if you're right Mike, then I'd feel a LOT better about tossing ebrake IF I lived on the flats. If only one reservoir goes you have either fronts or rears left...and ebrake would only gain you rears so no further ahead...I figure for two lines to get ripped out (ie. both reservoirs)would be more incident than ebrake can help me in?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted July 29, 2001 Share Posted July 29, 2001 I once had a pad fall off of my first car, a 78 Celica. Not sure how it happened. Possibly it broke? Anyway, I didn't know what happened at the time - all I knew was that I no longer had any brakes. I pumped them, but apparently not enough to take up the slack of the missing pad. Ended up passing a bunch of cars, flirting with oncoming traffic on a double lined 2 lane before pulling into the ditch. Highly scary. The ebrake on that car was dicey too. It worked, just not very well. To sum up, all of my pedal pressure went to the "easiest" path - in this case, the unloaded piston in that caliper with the missing pad. Same thing with a broken or ruptured line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted July 29, 2001 Share Posted July 29, 2001 all the fluid will escape from the "affected" reservoir..... i didnt mean the brakes were unaffected just that there would still be some brakes/// the rears will still work somewhat if the fronts rupture a line.. thats why cars now have separate reservoirs and in the 60's they didnt.....(early 60's) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted July 29, 2001 Share Posted July 29, 2001 quote: Originally posted by scca: the rears will still work somewhat if the fronts rupture a line.. thats why cars now have separate reservoirs and in the 60's they didnt.....(early 60's) Although I have never tried this out myself, Mike is correct - you should be able to get the remaining circuit to work, but it does require pumping the brakes repeatedly, until some braking force comes back. Also, this is why most modern cars have a diagonal split, instead of front/rear, like on our Zs. Now, if you lose one circuit, you will always have one front and one rear brake that is still useable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted July 29, 2001 Share Posted July 29, 2001 Oh BTW, I used a hydraulic line lock for a parking brake for several years with my wilwood setup. I always had a problem in that the line lock would only hold for maybe a day, at best, and then let loose. This was why I finally went to the spot caliper this year, when the second line lock one failed (it seized up - presumably from sitting over the winter). I'd be interested to see if you have the same problem. In the mean time, I'd suggest always leaving your car in gear when parked as a safety backup. One really nice thing about the line lock, though - it seems to make for a great theft deterrent. Pretty much any time anybody else tried to drive the car, they couldn't figure out how to get the thing to move, since the rears were solidly locked. Seems nobody ever thinks to tap the brakes in this situation. [ July 29, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted August 1, 2001 Share Posted August 1, 2001 is there anyway to change the setup of the e-brake so that the handle doesn't stick straight up in the air when engaged? maybe just at a 45 degree angle or something? thanks. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted August 1, 2001 Share Posted August 1, 2001 quote: Originally posted by BadKarmaCreepin: is there anyway to change the setup of the e-brake so that the handle doesn't stick straight up in the air when engaged? maybe just at a 45 degree angle or something? thanks. dan Why, yes there is! There's an adjustment mechanism underneath the car that allows you to compensate for cable stretch (which it sounds like you have) Get your car up on stands and enjoy getting filthy dirty when you adjust it. And yes, it DOES look like Dork Supreme to have your e-brake handle doing an imitation of a giant erection every time you park the car. It doesn't need to go up more than 30 degrees or so, when properly adjusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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