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$1500.00 Invested in wheels allready


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Ok this is my question.

I have a set of wheels and tires that only have about 4000 miles on them I bought them for my 86 Volkswagen Jetta that I haven't driven in 1.5 years. They are 17 x 7.5 with dual lug pattern of 4 on 100 mm and 4 on 4.5"

they have the typical honduh offset of 40 mm. tires are 205/40/17 BF Goodrich Euro TA's.

I think they will fit the car (1976 660z) with 3/4's of an inch spacers in the front and 1/2 of an inch spacers in the rear if im wrong let me know "please". The problem I've

run into is the wheel studs of course they are to short and I live in a hick town of only 53000 people all rednecks of course and I cant find any one of them in parts stores

smart enough to help me find studs as long as I need. I have herd mention of ARP studs here at HYBRIDZ and have used the search engine but cant find the size I need or a source. So Please with all the knowledge here I think

you all will help me. Thank You All.

icon_confused.gif

 

[ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: Datsun660Z ]

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Wheel spacers are not the safest way to go...but if you have to , the best spacers use a second set of studs. The stock studs are used to mount the spacers by recessing a nut insied the spacer, then a second set of studs are actually installed in the spacer between the first and that is what the wheels are bolted to. I think the VW pattern is significantly smaller than the Z's pattern. As for me, I'd sell the wheel/tire combo you have now and suck it up and get ones that fit.

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Hrm, BIG wheel spacers are scary, thinner ones aren't so bad. IF you're running ARP studs, I am, then the spacer you can run safely is probably wider than with stock lugs. The spacers that use a second set of lugs actually scare me the most - what if the lug pulls out of the aluminum?! I'd rather have it solidly attached to the hub thank you very much. (shiver) To each his own, Evanvhas had good luck with various spacers as I recall and has a good source for them too.

 

Selling those wheels and getting the "correct" ones would be best of course but it's not always easy to get a set you like with the right offset and pattern. Convert to 5lug and things get much easier though...

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Zs are 4 on 4.5, so the holes are okay, but you'd have to go with the Evan (with it's own studs) style of spacer and I'll tell you why: In order to swap out the studs in the rear, you have to remove the stub axles.

 

This is a BIG job. Plus, when you do remove the stubs (which you will do at some point I'm sure, regardless of this current wheel situation), you need to replace the bearings and the seals which are not cheap - between $150 and $200.

 

The spacers are not cheap, but if it means a "free" set of wheels, it may be worthwhile.

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jeromio, I think all you REALLY need to replace is the seal when you pull the stubs. But for a high powered Z, I think it's a good idea to do new bearings too. While your at it, having the stub shot peened and magnafluxed is a good idea too (while the shop presses a new outer bearing on).

 

If they are 240 stubs, and you will be putting lots of torque through it and hav sticky tires and possible wheel hop, an upgrade to 280Z stubs is also in order.

 

Talk about a snowball! Started out just putting studs in, turned into different axles, new bearings, etc.! But if you are going to be hard on the car with sticky tires and a bunch of torque, it might be cheaper than fixing the damage to car and body that a snapped stub might bring!

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I'd echo what Ross said about the studs, they were installed on mine without pulling the stubs. I DID have to pull the strut to drill it though, I'll see in a few days if they were drilled straight or not (ahem). My stubs are NOT upgraded but I figure on doing it ifwhen they break icon_smile.gif I'll switch to CVs at that point too.

 

I think we can agree to disagree on spacers. I don't much lke them and am quite happy that mine are paper thin and don't change my lug spacing. icon_rolleyes.gif

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we can all agree to disagree on spacers...porsches run up to 2"+ slip ons'...

 

"Zs are 4 on 4.5, so the holes are okay, but you'd have to go with the Evan (with it's own studs) style of spacer"

 

"I'm sure, regardless of this current wheel situation), you need to replace the bearings and the seals which are not cheap - between $150 and $200."

 

Really! Maybe I should bump up my rear bearing kit price at www.modern-motorsports.com $90US for your rear inner/outer bearings and seals AND a tube (400ml?) of Castrol Syntec grease. Not cheap bearings either. One tube has lasted me countless bearing installs so far.

 

 

As well , if you plan to work on your rears, you may want to do a rear disk brake swap at the same time. And you DON'T need to yank your stubs to replace/change studs IF you remove your drum brake setup in preparation for rear disk brakes. Just some options anyhow.

 

more info on my web, I'll have to get some 'spacer' info up soon as well...anyone collected any info for a FAQ on this??

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quote:

Originally posted by Ross C:

we can all agree to disagree on spacers...porsches run up to 2"+ slip ons'...

 

"Zs are 4 on 4.5, so the holes are okay, but you'd have to go with the Evan (with it's own studs) style of spacer"

 

"I'm sure, regardless of this current wheel situation), you need to replace the bearings and the seals which are not cheap - between $150 and $200."

 

Really! Maybe I should bump up my rear bearing kit price at
$90US for your rear inner/outer bearings and seals AND a tube (400ml?) of Castrol Syntec grease. Not cheap bearings either. One tube has lasted me countless bearing installs so far.

 

 

As well , if you plan to work on your rears, you may want to do a rear disk brake swap at the same time. And you DON'T need to yank your stubs to replace/change studs IF you remove your drum brake setup in preparation for rear disk brakes. Just some options anyhow.

 

more info on my web, I'll have to get some 'spacer' info up soon as well...anyone collected any info for a FAQ on this??

 

PS I can get ARP's or anything else easy enough for you as they are stocked locally. Know any machinists? Have 4 spacers 1/2" thickness made with a lip to match your wheels (lip is just extra/not mandatory but comforting) plus 2 -1/4" spacers. Then if needed you place the 1/4" spacers behind your 1/2" to give you 3/4". The lip is always facing outward. If the spacers are machined well/tight lug holes/nice lip I'd have no concerns with running them on 7/16's or 1/2" studs (1/2" won't always pass thru all wheels).

 

I run 1.25" slipons up front with 1/2" ARP studs. Out back 1.5" bolt on's that I'll be changing in a while....bolt on's are just extra fasteners to come loose IMO. NO decently made bolt on spacer is going to have lug's pull thru it, it's all in compression so where is the lug pulling thru to? It's simply compression and side/shear force on studs/knurled area as long as all is kept torqued up to spec.

7702's are the likely choice

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Guest Anonymous

Just incase you decide to go with bolt-on spacers.....I don't know what the going rate is but I can get a set for about $225 that goes from 4x4.5 to 4x100 (so that most newer rice rocket wheels fit) or 4x4.5 to 4x4.5.

 

 

jake

AZ

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