trwebb26 Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Ok... here goes. I bought a megasquirt unit preassembled last year. Since then I've installed it in the car. Here is the list of trouble I've had so far: 1) What I attributed to an overheating VB coil driver. The car would die after a few minutes of driving. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113669 2) Problems with the timing fluctuating: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111715 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111657 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113799 3) Problems with resets: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111972 4) M/S misbehaving: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111715 5) Noise from the alternator causing something to crap out: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114077 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115313 6) My most recent problem - serious RESETS when cranking... basically I cant even start the car to troubleshoot it anymore. Now... I'm a pretty patient guy. I've been working my megasquirt issues the best I can for quite some time (about a year) and haven't really gotten to drive my car in over a year. I'm out of ideas. The logical ideas I've come up with: 1) Send the megasquirt back to be looked at 2) Chuck it and go with SDS 3) Ditch the dizzy and rewire for EDIS (where I may have better luck - reducing a couple of the problems I've had ie timing/noise/resets/MSD. My real problem is that I see all of these guys that have half the skills I do - and tottally half ass everything on their car - and they run great! I spend all the extra time AND money I need to make sure it is done correctly and my car still doesn't run. I guess I'm just frusterated and I need to try a different route. Any sugguestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 "Now... I'm a pretty patient guy. I've been working my megasquirt issues the best I can for quite some time (about a year) and haven't really gotten to drive my car in over a year. " Tim, I feel your pain. No time to devote to the quirks, and have helped countless others get their systems running flawlessly. Afraid to reprogram my final third box to MS-S(E) and stick it in there because if it doesn't solve it, then I'm SOL bigtime.... So I will install JeffP's super-filtered alternator and try one more time, but I hold no great hopes. I feel your pain. Man, do I feel it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I feel your pain too Tim. after being very meticulious with every aspect of the ms-2 build and install, thats right I built my own, I had to send my unit to DIY for troubleshooting. Guess what.... I did nothing wrong accept not send it to them sooner. My ms-2 daughter board had some how taken a dump before ever being used.. go figure. .. Anyway the put a new 1 in and all is good. Accept now my new 200 mile motor has 6 broken pistons.. A detonation problem??? I feel you BRO!! As far as the EDIS is concerned.. I did it and am very glad I did. Got rid of a bunch of old junk. Timing is adjustable from the laptop. and if you want lots of spark it can't be beat. Now if I could figure out how to provide an adequate timing map so these new pistons do not meat the same demize as the last.. Anyway,, don't give up! That's the price we pay for hot rodding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Yeah, both of my personal isntallations have worked great and Prox's installation worked great. I have put 9000 miles on the talon so far with MSnS. But.... My friends installation in his street rod nearly pushed me to the brink before we got it to run correctly. But it runs great now. And... another installation we did in a pickup has never run quite right, always had resets and nothing has fixed it. The only thing we know is that the same ECU in put in the street rod runs fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Did you recently change plugs/wires? BRAAP had problems with resets caused by using non-resistor plugs and/or wires. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 I'm running brand new resistor plugs and brand new Taylor "sprio" pro wires. I really feel that a local fix isn't going to solve my problems any more. I've had WAY too many issues come up. I think I'll send my M/S in to be looked at - and if it comes back that there is nothing wrong - I'll wire up for EDIS. Anybody else have a suggestion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 Well... I sent off my Megasquirt to RS Autosport to be inspected this week. Hopefully Steve will tell me that my board is screwed early next week. It would be the happiest $300 I've ever spent if he told me I had to get a new one. I'm just WAITING for SOMETHING to go right. In the meantime... I've been looking at how to mount an edis wheel to a crank pulley. It seems like I've only got 2 options: 1) Machine down a stock 2-groove 280z pulley and press/bolt on a ford edis wheel. 2) Buy a pre-made one from top end performance: http://www.racetep.com/nissan.html I'm a tad concerned about this one because there is no "damper" to the dapmer. It looks like just a solid pulley. That is bad... right? Are there any other options that I'm missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted October 17, 2006 Administrators Share Posted October 17, 2006 Trwebb26,First off, I’m sorry to hear that you are having so much troubles with MS. My first hand experience with MS has taught me a bit of patience, though not enough that is for sure… (Now the only issue I have with my MS installation is acceleration enrichments, small issue compared to yours for sure). I truly feel your pain. I personally struggled with “reset issues†and was honestly able to FIX my reset issue.Did I read correctly when you said you had Taylor wires? Taylor is NOT a quality plug wire… Bundle those wires up, take a fancy picture of them with your best digital camera, do a little post processing with Adobe Photo shop if need be and post them for sale on eBay with no reserve at a starting bid of $.10 and let them go… The MSD or Mallory wires would be a better choice than Taylor, but even for Mega squirt, neither of those are still good enough. Even Jacobs wires which are even better at EMF reduction, will still cause resets with Mega Squirt. Trust me on this…I’d be willing to bet $20 at least your “reset†issue IS caused by your plug wires! Even Jacobs wires, (renowned as being a very high quality, way higher quality than ANY of Taylor wires, and low in EMF production), will cause Mega Squirt to reset. First hand experience even after going to GREAT lengths to reduce any chance of EMF resets such as shielded AND twisted ign trigger wires, placing the MS controller FAR away from any Ignition sources, keeping ALL MS wiring physically separated and as far as possibly away from any of the ignition components, (other side of the engine bay), etc. I can’t emphasize enough the importance of spark Plugs AND plug wires when using megasquirt.Ok, enough ranting. When you get your MS back from RS Autosports, (Steve is a phenomenal MS builder/solderer BTW), please purchase a set of Magnecor wires, even if you purchase them from another source other than Rusch Motorsports. Not only are Magnecor wires one of the highest quality highest performance street AND race plug wires that you can buy, you can rest assured they will NOT cause MS to reset due to high-tension ignition EMF. You can order your wires directly through us if you choose, or order them from another source if you don’t like us, just make sure that you use these wires before you start your MS controlled engine again. If you need specific lengths and/or plug ends, just let us/other vendor know and we/them will be glad to special order your Magnecor wires. Typically, even for DIS, custom labeled, custom length, custom plug end plug wires for the L-6, a set of Magnecor wires goes for less than $90, (My set pictured below with HEI on one end, standard plug on the other end was around $75).Oh, and here is the thread of my reset issues for those interested…http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=129342 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nienberg.11 Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 2) Buy a pre-made one from top end performance: http://www.racetep.com/nissan.html I'm a tad concerned about this one because there is no "damper" to the dapmer. It looks like just a solid pulley. That is bad... right? $390 for that? I just saved that picture to show my welder, who will make the wheel and bracket for a lot less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Every ECU installtion I've done, whether MS or aftermarket, has had bugs that needed to be figured out. My first MS install actually just started up the first time I cranked it. It was a fuel-only installation, so it was esier than an EDIS one. I still had problems with the MS later on as I installed the wrong transistors for the injector drivers. For some reason people think that installing a MS is easy. It is not! You need good debug, soldering, wiring and circuit sense. I debugged many VERY complex systems in my profession (satellite ground terminals), but even the MS can stump me sometimes. The important thing is to be persistant, and don't give up. Keep asking the questions, reviewing your installation, and THINKING. I've solved system problems at home in the shower! The last problem I had was with the superchaged car on the dyno. I couldn't figure out why I could drive it, but couldn't put much of a load on it on the dyno. After checking everything possible with the MS, the problem ended up not being the MS at all, but the plug gap! trwebb26: if you are getting any resets while cranking, I would monitor the 12V going to the MS. If you have a scope, trigger it on the falling edge, and look for any dips in voltage below 12V. If you don't have a scope, just use a DVM and monitor it while cranking. When I bring up a new MS installation for the first time, I always have a stout batery changer connected. Try connecting one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 When I bring up a new MS installation for the first time, I always have a stout batery changer connected. Try connecting one. When I do that, (sometimes) the MS goes to a runaway spark situation, and the injectors fire at the frequency of the pulsed DC from the Battery Charger! Nasty! Amusing for others to watch, but really frustrating! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 When I do that, (sometimes) the MS goes to a runaway spark situation, and the injectors fire at the frequency of the pulsed DC from the Battery Charger! Wow, I've never heard of that happening. The battery should act like a huge capcitor to the battery charger, filtering out the rectified 60Hz. Either your battery is questionable, or where you have the injector power connected is extra sensitive for some reason. Is the injector power connected to the battery directly? You never want to power any of the EFI system from the starter motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Wow, I've never heard of that happening. Like I said at the beginning, "TRWebb, I feel your pain!" That line is the COMPLETE history of my MS install in the 260ZT 2+2!!! ALLLLLLL MS power, fed through the relay box is coming from a 20A filter. It cleaned up the power pretty nicely according to the scope, and of course when the "runaway" happens the scope is never at hand, and I'm not letting it go on until I can grab it because it realllllly puts the petrol to the engine (injector firing at the same time, did I mention that?) Believe me, I would LOVE to not have problems like this. I mean challenging is one thing, but it is coming to the rapid conclusion that "some cars you just can't reach" to paraphrase an old movie, and apparently this Red 260Z is one of them, had I more time on the ground at home to get to the car and go through it from stem to stern in a methodical troubleshooting of it once again it might be solved, but at this point after literally years of having a day to do this or that I'm rapidly reaching the point where I will toss it all in and go with something else. Last time I said that vultures hovered... don't this time please! I will use the freaking box on something else, but I just don't think it will work on this car. Maybe try it on my 73 just to prove it out... Oh, and the battery, (take your pick, new red top ultima, new diehard, or any number of used and new batteries that have cycled through that "batery box storage point") makes absolutely no difference---it does it now and again, no rhyme nor reason to it. Shut the key off, try again, and it may do it again....or not for another hour.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Another applicable movie quote for the relationship between you and your MS installation: "What we have hear is a failure to comunicate" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I dont know what to tell you, man! just wait to hear back from RS about your box, I guess. Im probably one of those people you refer to as "half assing" things. Although, I actually am fairly computer freindly and have experience with electronics, wiring and soldering. I built a v3.0 board for myself and installed it on my L28E with about 11.25:1 c/r. I was running the VB921 for ignition control until I fried it from improper dwell settings (75% duty cycle, OOPS!) then I ran a GM HEI and let me tell you, those are CRAP! finally I found a nifty little ignitor from an 85 to 94 maxima with the VG30E in it. wired it in and Ive been running it since about june-ish? other than the VB921, I had some minor problems for about a week before I got it smoothed out. just minor things like non resistor plugs, TPS wired wrong, no AIT sensor hooked up because SOMEONE told me it doesnt matter, well when the MS thinks the outside air is always -40, it tends to run a litttle rich. anyway, I used a stock harness I had laying around, so its getting power from all the stock sources, I have a crap-tacular autozone alternator, so I dont understand all the voltage reset issues people are having.... The MS itself resides in the stock ECU location. Ive been running MS&S_E since june. Ive driven cross country and I deliver pizzas with my car, working 40hrs a week. the miles add up. keep at it, its probably something stupid that was overlooked. MS is worth the toruble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 Well, discussing it with JeffP and his EE Buddy at work, they both are of the opinion that the floating reset pin on the MS is a BIG mistake, and Jeff has long said I should tie the pin high or low to prevent nusiance resets. The EE Bud suggested a 4.5K resistor tied to ground on that reset pin. I really am not having reset problems that I can see, it is far more bizzare than that. Oh, to only have a reset problem to solve! In the begining with the Com issue, I took to pulling that pin out of the socket to prevent resets!!! I stuffed it back in after they replaced the motherboard, modem, com section of my Vaio Laptop....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Tony didn't you have some wiring issues on that car aswel? such a shame as it the most shiny car .. i bet it would do great at the autox next year ! Pretty sure you have gone over this .. but did you ever think of yanking out all the wires and redoing them? it has to be in there somewhere.. Or in the MS unit itself.. but i bet you tested that! On the other hand im sure you would be able to trace the problem if you had time to work on the spider nest and not being send all over the country .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 Well... I got my Megasquirt back from Steve. As it turned out - it wasn't wired correctly for the 280ZX turbo dizzy... go figure. I stuck it back in the car and now I'm getting CRAZY resets. If you turn the car over it resets. The troubleshooting I've done so far is: 1) Unplugged the MSD so there is no spark at all... crank it over - no resets. 2) Take the MSD completely out of the picture and wire directly up to the coil... crank it over - LOTS of resets again. So - it is definately ignition related - noise from the spark plug wires. It is strange because I've never had resets like this before. I'm running resistor plugs. My guess is that the spark plugs have too much resistance in them now (too much troubleshooting the engine) and the wires are finding another place for all of that energy to go besides the spark plug. I'm going to try picking up a fresh set of plugs tomorrow and see what that does. I've already fitted a "noise filter" on the input to the megasquirt - no help. I guess if that doesn't work then better plug wires are next (like BRAAP has suggested). Does anybody else have any suggestions besides throwing the megasquirt against the wall and swapping in an RB motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 After reading back through the posts... I just ordered a set of Magnecor wires, too. We'll see. Any other advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Put a BIG cap in parallel with the power to the MS... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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