24OZ Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 I finally got to the stage of my build to put my damper on, BHJ damper purchased from Rebello with a 60 tooth trigger attached. I push the damper onto the crank and tapped it in centrally with a mallet. I ahve not even tightened it yet and I notice that the bolts holding the trigger wheel are touching the timing cover. Has anyone else found this? What is the fix? Appreciate any help on this as its really holding me back.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Sounds just like what I had happen if the back side of a regular oem damper did not get cut back so my TEC2 trigger wheel would clear the timing cover. I'm sure thats what is happening, although its hard to belive Dave didn't know this would happen. Also hard to belive the new damper wouldn't be made to accept the wheel w/o contact.... Prolly going to have to be installed on the front of the wheel, like TimZ did on his BHJ damper with the TEC2 wheel. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103543&highlight=BHJ+damper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 An old pic I know but mine worked out well. Single groove also from Dave. I had an eletromotive style trigger wheel attached to mine. Wonder if that be the difference? http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7872&cat=500&ppuser=9707 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 I am really dissapointed to say the least. I am sure Dave didnt get it wrong and I am hoping that I have overlooked something.. but what? Here is a picture of the back of it, the studs are touching the timing cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Can you just counter sink the holes in the triggerd wheel, and then use flat head screws to hold it to the pully? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Went out to the garage and double checked mine. It has similar bolts except that they are flatten on the tops. Don't know if Rebello shaved them or they can be had like that. Allen heads are easy enough to remove and swap out for something with less deck height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 Thanks very much for checking. Seems they overlooked this. I will try and remove the bolts, but I am sure it wont be easy since they have probably been loctited. Just another setback... when will this engine ever be done... Thanks guys.. I may even email Dave to let him know, just so that it wont happen again and others aren't in the same position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 240z, Am I missing them, or are their no slots for wheel adjustment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 No you are correct. The TEC and Electromotive wheels are different. The unit I have is a Electromotive TEC2... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted October 15, 2006 Author Share Posted October 15, 2006 No there are no slots for adjustment. I specified a 60 tooth trigger wheel and how I wanted it mounted, ie where my 1st tooth should be after the two missing teeth. I am using a British based EMS called Emerald. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 Now I am a litle confused on the wheels. When I was putting mine together the engine management system specified an electromotive style trrigger wheel. My bad if I got something wrong here. First time with the trigger wheel setup and still learning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 Now I am a litle confused on the wheels. When I was putting mine together the engine management system specified an electromotive style trrigger wheel. My bad if I got something wrong here. First time with the trigger wheel setup and still learning... The TEC is made by Electromotive, so there is no difference between a "TEC-style" trigger wheel and an "Electromotive-style" trigger wheel. As you can see from the pic above, Joel's and my BHJ dampers have the trigger wheel mounted on the front, instead of being sandwiched in behind the damper, so there was no way for us to have such a problem (I was really confused until I saw the pic of 240Z's damper). By far the best solution would be to countersink the holes and use flathead allen machine screws (loctite them in), as z-ya suggested. Once you get the screws and the countersink bit, it's about 10 minutes worth of work on a drill press. You could probably even get away with using the coutersink bit with a hand drill if you have a steady hand (drill press would be far better, though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted October 15, 2006 Author Share Posted October 15, 2006 Thanks for the help, it's very much appreciated. I managed to remove the studs fairly easily. I firstly want to mount the damper with the wheel using no studs at all, just to ensure there is no clearance issues with the damper and the thickness of the trigger wheel. Then if there is till no issue, I will do as you guys have suggested, counter sink the holes and get flat bedded bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John1jz Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 I know this is an old thread but I am in a similar position to George. I have one of these BHJ dampers and want to fit a trigger wheel to it. When the damper is installed on the engine there doesn't appear to be enough space between the damper and timing cover. The wheel I have is not the one from BHJ and is the standard 5mm thick but I think the gap looks to be less than 5mm. How did you get on George? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikr Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 I have a BHJ dampener with a trigger wheel for an Electromotive ignition system with sufficient clearance. My set up uses flat head screws and a 3mm thick trigger wheel. Countersink you trigger wheel and use flat head screws, The head of the screw should be flush with the back side of the trigger wheel. Looking at my car I think your 5mm thick trigger wheel will fit. If your BHJ dampener uses Imperial-inch threads to attach the trigger wheel you will need to use an 82 degree countersink if it has metric threads you will need to use an 90 degree countersink this is important. Not the best picture Zoom in to see flat head screw. Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 I am running a similar 5mm wheel and I turned it down thinner on the lathe for clearance. I also had the small rabello wheel on my damper and it’s holes were countersunk already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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