2003z Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Darn, just started initial reassembly and noticed this on my crank today. I'm thinking either having the machine shop fix it, or buying a used crank from the local z car wrecking yard, as I need to get everything in and running by next friday (9 days). I'm pretty sure I can't just ignore it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 its the keyway on the left, if anyone was wondering. (based on the looks but no replies) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Yeah, you can't ignore that, Cast cranks don't weld good IMO, so I'd ditch the crank and get another. IMO you can't just throw in a used crank either. The journals will have to be mic'ed and the bearing clearances will have to be checked. I'd resize the rods for optimum crush and turn the crank too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest beandip Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Darn, just started initial reassembly and noticed this on my crank today. I'm thinking either having the machine shop fix it, or buying a used crank from the local z car wrecking yard, as I need to get everything in and running by next friday (9 days). I'm pretty sure I can't just ignore it. Contact Kim Blough at IDAHO Z CAR . 208 466 0004 He has the solution and it is a inexpensive fix . Best of luck . Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73ZCAR Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Sometimes I'ts just cheaper to buy a whole motor from a wrecking yard. If I'ts nothin special. I know around here if you go on the right day they're 1/2 price. At some yards that means around $150.00 and then you can avoid all the machine work. Just hone the bores and replace the rings and bearings, and you're good to go. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 Contact Kim Blough at IDAHO Z CAR . 208 466 0004 He has the solution and it is a inexpensive fix . Best of luck . Gary thanks Gary, I'm going to go with his solution. Its Loctite 660 to repair and 'glue' the keyway in. Its an anaerobic sealer that was designed specifically for this problem. http://www.mx5.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Nissan cranks are forged so you could probably weld it. I replaced my crank that had this issue, and I've seen others with just red loctite and they seemed to be holding FWIW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 I've had one welded before, I bought a car from some guy who's mother said it didn't run. towed it home and cranked it to see what was wrong and it did run, for 10 minutes. When the guy put the engine together he had one bearing in backwards so the rod got no oil and welded itself to the crank. How he knew, I don't know. Anyway, they welded, grinded and polished it to like new. Unfortunately, my local machine shop doesn't do that work and I really want to get the engine back together by the end of next week for a track event 11/4 and 5 at Rockingham. If it doesn't hold, the worse that can happen is underdriving my water pump and alternator and I start all over. The guy told me the stuff, once it sets doesn't come off except with a hammer and chisel, and even then its not easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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