280zwitha383 Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Now don't get discouraged. A stroked 350 is a 4.030" bore (that is a 4" 350 bore 30 thousandths over) and it has a 3.75 stroke which is a 400ci crank but of course they also make aftermarket cranks with 350 journals. Don't take me offensively or anything, I would like to see you stroke your engine since you either have bought or are planning on buying new internals. What exacltly have you already bought? It's not a bad idea to return them for stroker parts. The point is, you're buying all of these things anyway and there is virtually no price difference in the parts. You would probably have to get the machine shop to clearance the block for the larger stroke crank but that's no biggie. Just don't get overwhelmed. Do what you're comfortable with. Ask us whatever you're not sure about, we don't mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlickster Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 I have determined my Build. I'm not going to stroke it. I do want this to be a Toy, but not so much of a Toy that i don't feel comfortable driving it more than 20 Miles at a time. When i say Toy, I mean Sounding Good and able to pull me and a Passenger back in our seat, but not really to race. In fact, i was planning on Driving it 200 Miles after i break it in to show it to my National Guard Buddies. I already have Everything i need to build it. I'm using a Single Profile Cam. I have some 882 Heads right now, but i figure that i can always change the Heads to Aluminum after Christmas since you don't have to remove the Engine for that. Someone mentioned earlier that i should Replace my 600 CFM Carb and get something Bigger. I agree with that, but again, that's something that i can do with the engine still in the Truck. Let me Go ahead and give you all an Updated list of what i have right now. Block: 4 Bolt Bored .060 Crank: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260040895784&rd=1,1 Rods:5.7" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230043272803&rd=1&rd=1 Cam: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN%2D00016&N=700+400421+4294887637+4294908216+4294908395+4294887485+4294838372+4294840140+115&autoview=sku Pistons: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320037708533&rd=1&rd=1 Rockers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190042322850&rd=1&rd=1 Springs: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180039953446&rd=1&rd=1 Pushrods: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=019&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=290041584968&rd=1&rd=1 Heads: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320025163839&rd=1&rd=1 Valve Covers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110044434461&rd=1&rd=1 Intake Manifold: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2101&N=700+4294925239+4294839079+400065+4294908216+115&autoview=sku Carb: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=EDL%2D1405&N=700+4294925239+4294839063+400065+115&autoview=sku I have all parts EXCEPT the Rods Currently. The Rods are on their way already also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Block: 4 Bolt Bored .060 Crank: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0895784&rd=1,1 Rods:5.7" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...2803&rd=1&rd=1 Cam: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Pistons: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8533&rd=1&rd=1 Rockers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...2850&rd=1&rd=1 Springs: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3446&rd=1&rd=1 Pushrods: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4968&rd=1&rd=1 Heads: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3839&rd=1&rd=1 Valve Covers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4461&rd=1&rd=1 Intake Manifold: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Carb: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=EDL%2D1405&N=700+4294 925239+4294839063+400065+115&autoview=sku "I have all parts EXCEPT the Rods Currently. The Rods are on their way already also." its the little stuff that adds up... parts not listed, hopefully you have but just didn,t list all the engine gaskets valve spring retainers & keepers carb mounting bolts carb linkage oil pan with gasket front cover water pump flex plate harmonic damper belt pullies timing gear/chain set cam button lifters dipstick with tube t-stat and houseing oil pump oil pump drive shaft oil pump pick-up all the bolts/fasteners and SEALANTS the freeze plug and oil passage plugs ignition & distributor ignition wires spark plugs engine bearings assorted machine work and ballancing the rotating assembly hoses & belts motor mounts pushrod guide plates & rocker studs(may not be on heads) internal magnets, & windage screen (optional) thats why I usually suggest buying a cheap replacement crate motor with a warrantee when power levels are to be low, its a good starting point that supplies many of those parts, and I don,t want to be a jerk, but how can you sellect the pushrods without checking the geometrys correct for the length needed? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2D10067353&N=700+1009+115&autoview=sku BTW, this may prove interesting reading http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html how to asemble an engine basics on video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlickster Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 yes, i do have all of that. I did get a new Oil Pump assembly. I have all of the Required gaskets and I Have a Double Roller Timing set. I'm reusing my Old Water pump since that was new on the last engine when the previous owner Screwed up what was supposed to be a Rebuild (He used the Wrong Size Pistons and Rings). The Carb and Manifold were on the old engine, so they already have all the needed hardware. I will need spark Plugs, and i'll probably put a New Cap, Rotor, and Wires on the Engine. My Springs Came with Retainers and Locks. The Cam was a Kit that came with the Tappets. I have the Cam Bearings, but i Need to get the Main and Rod Bearings. I think i'll get another Thermostat, but i'm not sure what Temp Rating i should use. I live in Mississippi, So it gets pretty hot in the Summer. The Transmission already has a Shift Kit and it's own Cooler. The Engine that i'm using USED to be a Crate engine. It's a '72 and the Truck is a '86. The Original thing i was gonna do was Replace the Heads. It Smoked ALOT as you could imagine for having the Wrong Pistons and Rings. I thought it was the heads. When they came off, i saw that i was wrong. The Previous owner's Brother Told me that he was adjusting the Valves by cranking the Rockers down as far as they would go. He Said his Brother Ruined the Cam and Tappets and he had to help put in new ones so his brother wouldn't screw it up again. After i realized the Engine was going to be a Rebuild, a buddy of mine suggested to me that i should give it some performance while the engine is down. I agreed. That's how I came to be building this the way that i am. I'm a Rookie, like the last person that attempted to Rebuild it, but i think i'm Smarter. Does that sound Conceited? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 "but i think i'm Smarter. Does that sound Conceited?" HELL no!, thats how you/ me and most guys learned this hobby, you either jump in with both feet (SINK OR SWIM, and learn the hard expensive way) or hang out with more experianced guys willing to teach you,the pitfalls and fine points, its really not too hard to assemble a really nice engine IF you do the RESEARCH before starting and FULLY understand what your doing...thats one reason I stress the engine build CD and links posted above are a very good referance, youll be far ahead doing the research and taking addvantage of the available resources Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Someone mentioned earlier that i should Replace my 600 CFM Carb and get something Bigger. I agree with that... Since we're posting a million links, here's this one. A 350 with 90% efficiency AND 6500rpm, which you will not do either with this combination, gives you a little under 600cfm. http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html[url=http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html][/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlickster Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 Well, that's just awesome. I don't have to buy another Carb. Thank you 280Zwitha383. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 You mentioned that someone had the wrong pistons in the engine, how do the cylinder bores look?? I may be wrong but 60 over is about the upper limit for a SBC, if the cylinders are not good your sticking money in a bad block, not trying to be the bearer of bad news but trying to help you NOT make a expensive mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlickster Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 The Block is Getting a new Bore To .060. The Old pistons did scar the Cylinders. The Previous Bore was .040. I'm not happy about Boring to .060 But it's all i have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Back in the days, I had a set of .060 over 12.5:1 TRW's, .510 solid cam, set of ported 882 heads on a 350. Every time I rebuilt it I just got another block that was 0.030 or 0.040 over an bored it to 0.060, freshened the heads and let her rip. I never had a problem. Nowadays they can sonic check the block for thickness before you start for a nominal fee. Here it's $25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Nowadays they can sonic check the block for thickness before you start for a nominal fee. Here it's $25. Really?! I didn't know it was THAT cheap. That's definitely money well spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlickster Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 I found a Place that will Balance my Rotating assembly for $125. The Only problem is that it's 100 Miles away. It's not easy to find services like that in Mississippi. I asked about Knife edging my Crank and they told me that it wasn't a good idea with a Stock Crank. They said that they would have to add weight to it to compensate and i would be better off buying a High Performance Crankshaft that's already Knife Edged. I can live with that. I'm still waiting on the Rods to show up at my door, but it should be any day now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlickster Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 The Engine has been assembled and installed. It Fired up the First time. The Timing and Valves only needed a Slight Adjustment. It sounds pretty good with the Old Glasspacks, but i'm gonna put some Flowmasters on there. Thankyou all for your help in this Project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Shweeeet:-d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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